3-Point Hitch Cat 3/2 frame on a 110 gallon sprayer--

[oosik]

I will agree your situation is a little more technical but not impossible. It does require a Cat 1 pin - two short chunks of Cat 1 to Cat 2 sleeve and sufficient washers to hold this assemblage tight together. The Cat 1 pin will fit the lower arm - the short chunks of Cat 1 to Cat 2 sleeve will fit the implement and the washers will be placed on the outside to squeeze this all together and hold the sleeve where they should be.

I had to do this on one piece of equipment and found the best solution was a grade 8 bolt of appropriate size and a nylock nut and 3 or 4 washers on the outside on each side. Hey - where there is the will, there will be a way.

 

[travlitt]

It's not worth the energy to research. I just didn't know if I was being unreasonable, but the prosecution rests, majority rules.

Why don't you remove the cat. 3 pins from the sprayer and install cat. 1 pins on it. Looks like a simple way to get what you want. May have to remove your quick hitch and connect it to your original draft arms.

 

[mgraham112]

Why don't you remove the cat. 3 pins from the sprayer and install cat. 1 pins on it. Looks like a simple way to get what you want. May have to remove your quick hitch and connect it to your original draft arms.

Cat 1 pins are much smaller than cat 3. This would require a sleeve pinned where the holes are or some heavy duty washers. I have never seen a cat 1 pin for a cat 3 hole that's threaded. If I have to remove the quick hitch, I'll just use another tractor. I'm trying to migrate everything to use quick hitch and I'll be more than happy to modify. The transition and fabrication isn't the issue, it's the surprise that this thing had cat 3 and 2, but not cat 1 and if that was reasonable and expected.

 

[oosik]

I think most Cat 2 and Cat 3 arrangements are twin tab with the pin running thru and holding the lower arm between the tabs.

mgraham112 - don't give up - if the unit is what you want, then a secure method of attachment is available. AND I will admit - I wouldn't expect a Cat 2/Cat 3 arrangement on a 110 gallon sprayer either.

If your lower arms are Cat 1 and the sprayer is Cat 2 or Cat 3 - then by simple sleeving you can get a secure attachment. It CERTAINLY is a lot easier than torching off the tabs and welding on new ones. And like travlitt said - it may mean removing your quick hitch to use this sprayer.

Remember - variety is the spice of life.

Think about this - if the Cat 2/Cat 3 setup on the sprayer is too wide for your quick hitch or with the quick hitch removed - get extra long grade 8 bolts - run them completely thru both existing tabs on each side of the sprayer - with the appropriate sleeves - attach the lower arms on the inside of the inner tabs on each side. This could well make the attachment points the correct width.

 

[vsteel]

You would need to see if your 3pt would match the width but why not take the cat 3 pins to a machine shop and just have them turned down to cat 1 size. Then you can keep the same holes. You could have them cut off the cat 3 part and just weld a cat 1 top on which might be cheaper than the turning.

 

[hawkeye08]

Did the dealer represent it incorrectly? or did you just buy it assuming it would fit? I understand if you're mad at yourself for missing it and now need to modify it to meet your needs. Lots of ways to tackle it and make it work.

 

[mgraham112]

The topic never even came up. I assumed wrong. I've got the tabs ready to go. It's just a matter of cutting and welding. It will be like the frame on the boxblade below.

 

[mgraham112]

 

[orangeandgreen]

I have the same job ahead of me for my 150 gallon sprayer. It is CAT 2 and I need it to be CAT 1. I current have CAT 1 pins in it and just remove my quick hitch when I use it, but it is a PITA. Will be replacing the tabs before spraying season.

 

[EJP1234]

You get Cat1 Pins and washers. I mod implements all the time.

I have Cat1 on my CK30, needed a grader blade for the once every two years we have a snow fall over 4"... we will get hammered every few years. I didn't want a new shiny one that rarely gets used so I bought a used 10'er that's old and rusty from an auction for $50... heated up the rusted to frame pins, put Cat1's on but facing in, instead of out so my lifting arms didn't rub tires, and used big flats to fill the hole on either side... works perfect!