Chain pitch (size) differences.

[LD1]

10 uses per year.....a few stumps no larger than 6"......I'd not even be looking for a saw. Your 180 is more than sufficient.

But using 3/4 tank of fuel per stump, sounds like you are toasting your chain. Even with that little saw, a cut through 6" should take no more than 20-30 seconds.

Keep the saw out of the dirt. I cannot stress this enough. A new saw isn't gonna do you any good cutting them stumps. You are gonna a dul the chain just as quick

 

[Egon]

Be aware that when a chain dulls and is used it gets hot. Maybe hot enough to effect the temper of the chain teeth. The chain does not cut well or long per sharpening after it has been heated.

 

[BufordBoone]

Thanks for all the advice. My chains did heat up pretty badly.

LD1, the stumps were not 6", they are more like 30". I was trying to cut them off 6" above the ground.



The advice about keeping it out of the dirt is good advice and I have been very careful about that.

Yesterday I received the advice of chipping the bark (these are pines) off around where I want to cut. I was told that rain splashes dirt up onto the stumps and, therefore, cutting without removing the bark means you are cutting thru a lot of dirt.

FWIW, I've been happy with the performance of my 180 up to this point, just know that it has limitations. I thought those had been reached with the need to cut these stumps.

 

[BufordBoone]

That photo is too small. Let's try this again.

 

[BufordBoone]

Double post. Sorry.

 

[CobyRupert]

I'm in the market for a general purpose chainsaw.

I've been told that a chain with larger pitch will cut better and last longer.

The Stihl saws have a .325" pitch, the Husquvarna saws have a 3/8" pitch (.375").

Is there really any noticeable difference in the performance or longevity of the chain sizes?

On the difference between the two brands, I've run into many fans of both.

I started out with a Husky 55 running a .325 low kick-back "safety" chain. I found those worthless (for cutting). I quickly changed over to a "regular" .325" chain. It was good and I used it for years.
Then I changed over the chain, bar and sprocket on it to run a .375" chain. It was like running a totally different saw. I just takes bigger bites. Throws bigger chips. Cuts way faster. Yes, it has the potential to kick more.
(IMHO) It went from being a big little saw to a little big saw.

Hard to say as far a longevity. All other things being equal, like type of wood (and dirt) it's being run in, metal hardness (can't say how it varies between brands) and same frequency of sharpening, there's definitely more tooth in a .375 to file, so you probably can make a .375 last longer. But it's a matter of how much do you want to file away and how long do you want to keep the chain.

(When I'm done with a chain I'd guess I can probably fit 2 files between the raker and the tooth. Do this and they'll really kick (back) if you mess up)

 

[newbury]

/edit - While gathering data points for my diatribe below I missed the OP's post:

Thanks for all the advice. My chains did heat up pretty badly.

LD1, the stumps were not 6", they are more like 30". I was trying to cut them off 6" above the ground.

View attachment 521476

The advice about keeping it out of the dirt is good advice and I have been very careful about that.

Yesterday I received the advice of chipping the bark (these are pines) off around where I want to cut. I was told that rain splashes dirt up onto the stumps and, therefore, cutting without removing the bark means you are cutting thru a lot of dirt.

FWIW, I've been happy with the performance of my 180 up to this point, just know that it has limitations. I thought those had been reached with the need to cut these stumps.

But I think it still depends on how many is "further loss"

Perhaps a little more info would help.

I currently have a Stihl MS180C (16" bar). I think I used it 10 times in the past year (not counting last Sat.)

I had 26 large pine trees taken down as they were infested with pine beetles. I hope we got them all but understand we may have further loss. Some have told me to be ready to lose all.

In trying to cut the stumps to about 6" or less, I used three chains and wore myself out with my current saw. Chains were sharp when I started. They dulled very quickly. I probably used 3/4 tank of fuel per stump. Very frustrating.

I knew it was lightweight and mostly a trimming saw when I bought it.

So, for a good general purpose saw that likely would get used, lets be generous and say 10 hours per year, what would you recommend?

I don't feel like I'd do a "professional" model much justice but if there is a good reason to spend that much more, i'm all ears.

Thanks for the help.

Using the 180 10 times a year is fair usage for Harry Homeowner. After I bought my 021 (35CC) I probably averaged about 3 times a year, mainly for fallen branches to big for a lopper.

As far as smoking chain (not to be confused with chain smoking) -

What chain were they? I believe that the 180 size saw is normally sold with a "safety" chain (Meets ANSI Low Kickback Standard) which has a green strap. The proper and SAFE use of that chain requires you to put on gloves, carefully take it off the chainsaw and hang it on a wall. Then put on a real chain.

One of the better sources for learning about chain is Madsen's Guide Bar & Saw Chain Menu but it could be a college course.

Suffice it to say that the "safety" chain is good for cutting the Thanksgiving turkey if it's tender.

Plus when you are cutting stumps short you tend to get down in the dirt which rapidly dulls chains. Often the base of the stumps "pick up" sand and dirt as they grow, so several inches above ground level there is sand embedded in the trunk.

I purchased a Stihl MS271 with 18 in bar last Christmas. When cutting locust with the chain that came with it 3689 005 0074 26RM3 74. I was smoking the chain/bar with each cut. I switched the chain to the yellow link/RS full chisel 3639 005 0074 26RM3 74 and it just flew through the locust NO smoke. The difference was like night and day.

I have included some information on the chain. Some people say it dulls faster, I have not found that to be the case and I have cut 8 truck loads since Christmas with it and much of it locust. There is more kick back and you need to have a good hold of the saw as it really digs in.

I see a lot people cutting with the front half of the bar. I cut a lot faster using the back half of the bar.

RAPID Super (RS) | Extremely Fast-Cutting Saw Chain | STIHL USA

Yup, however if you want to cut stumps short you will probably be hitting dirt which will dull a square tooth quickly.

Understanding Cutter Teeth On Pro Saw Chain

10 uses per year.....a few stumps no larger than 6"......I'd not even be looking for a saw. Your 180 is more than sufficient.

But using 3/4 tank of fuel per stump, sounds like you are toasting your chain. Even with that little saw, a cut through 6" should take no more than 20-30 seconds.

Keep the saw out of the dirt. I cannot stress this enough. A new saw isn't gonna do you any good cutting them stumps. You are gonna a dul the chain just as quick

I agree with LD1 that your saw MAY be sufficient. However I think he misread your 6".

26 large pine trees

is large 6" in DBH (diameter at breast height)? or does your 6" refer to the height you are "trimming" stump?

I've lot's of pine (maybe 300 acres) and I wouldn't start calling them large before they got at least 24" DBH. What DBH size do you call "large"?

And

but understand we may have further loss. Some have told me to be ready to lose all.

How many is "all"?
5?
50?
500?
If it's 5 get a better chain or two. I'd recommend a good Stihl semi-chisel.
If it's 50 and they are over 24" DBH get a pro saw.
If it's 500 get a logger, sell the trees and have the logger trim the butts down

You've got a decent limbing saw, which (although slightly small) is essential to a three saw plan. Next you need a good 50CC class, like a 261, then if you realize you like the smell of 2 stroke in the morning get a nice 90CC (or two). Then just to round it out get a 120CC for the REALLY LARGE pines And to round out your wood processing maybe a nice sawmill. Oh wait, that's what I did!

So
A new chain or two - $20?
A 261? $550?
A 660? $1,200?
An 880? $2,000?
A SMALL sawmill $4,000?

I think TBN can help you spend $20 to $8,000 easily. We love to spend other peoples money.

 

[s219]

I purchased a Stihl MS271 with 18 in bar last Christmas. When cutting locust with the chain that came with it 3689 005 0074 26RM3 74. I was smoking the chain/bar with each cut. I switched the chain to the yellow link/RS full chisel 3639 005 0074 26RM3 74 and it just flew through the locust NO smoke. The difference was like night and day.

I have included some information on the chain. Some people say it dulls faster, I have not found that to be the case and I have cut 8 truck loads since Christmas with it and much of it locust. There is more kick back and you need to have a good hold of the saw as it really digs in.

I see a lot people cutting with the front half of the bar. I cut a lot faster using the back half of the bar.

RAPID Super (RS) | Extremely Fast-Cutting Saw Chain | STIHL USA

Smoking means the chain was dull, independent of the cutter type. When sharp, RM should fly through locust (it does for me).

Part of the difference you noted was due to the RM (semi-chisel) compared to the RS (full-chisel) cutter type. RS is higher performance cutting, whereas RM is lower performance but more resistant to damage and dulling. If you keep them filed sharp while in the field, RS should last OK, but expect to file a little bit more often than when using RM. You can judge overall productivity after some use -- what makes more sense -- less filing breaks on the job, or faster cutting between filing breaks? If cutting dirty wood, RM is better. If clean wood, then go with RS.

The difference you noted has nothing to do with yellow versus green, which is all about the rakers. Green chain has safety rakers that pop out when the chain rounds the tip of the bar, where as yellow only has standard depth rakers. When cutting along the flat of the bar, cutting performance is identical with both chains. It's only for stuff like plunge and bore cuts where you will notice a difference (the green chain will not plunge/bore very well, if at all). Most homeowners don't plunge/bore, or shouldn't because they don't have the experience, so they should be using green chain. Or anyone doing firewood cutting and only using the flat of the bar/chain to cut should use green chain. You will never notice a performance issue and it's much safer in the event you bump the tip of the bar against something else when cutting. If you have to plunge/bore, then you really need yellow. But don't get yellow for performance reasons, as it has no effect on that, and you are adding risk by using it.

 

[LD1]

Wow, I wish I could find a revolver in a tree stump? Did you damage it much when you cut it? Or is that why your saws are dull?

Kidding aside, if indeed you have alot of 30" stumps, I'd be looking for more saw than you are considering. A 70cc class pro saw. Lot better cutting machines, lighter, and hold their value alot better

 

[s219]

I think the bottom line is that cutting stumps is tough on a saw, bar, and chain, as well as the user. Bigger saws are a lot harder to handle. Smaller saws don't have the guts. Getting the saw power head close to the ground compromises air flow and cooling. It's really just a lousy job all the way around and there is no silver bullet (other than stump grinder or backhoe).