Chain Saw Safety

[Docsknotinn]

Dave, It really depends on how much you cut and if your chain is kept clean and well oiled. Most sharpening kits come with a guage to check them. I find it just takes too darn much time and here they charge 14 bucks to sharpen and a new full chisel Oregon chain is $17. I can cut all day felling with one chain but when I start bucking if that chain hits the dirt even a tad it gets dull pretty darn quick. Most chains also have lines on them so if you dont see those on the side of the chisel its probably been ground too much. A improperly sharpened chain is even worse than a dull one. I need to get one of those Oregon electric sharpeners as I now have a couple of dull chains that have never been sharpened.Chip size is a reall good indicator. When you see saw dust its time to change. I also find its benmeficial to adjust the chain tention or at least check it with every tank of gas. I have the stihl Hard hat and ear protection combo. I wear it some times when the boss really gets after me. Dave

 

[5string]

Dave - It is difficult to quantify how long a chain will last. DocsKnotInn pretty much summarized it. Chip size is a good indicator. I think the best indicator is - cutting with a sharp chain is down right fun / enjoyable; cutting with a dull chain is work. When you are working hard, it is probably time to change the chain. It is amazing how quickly a chain can go from sharp to dull with just a couple dips in the dirt. When bucking, I try to avoid cutting on or through a knot. It really is kind of a feel thing.

 

[dmftoy1]

Thanks for the advice guys! I have been adjusting the chain after every tank. Seems like I have to add bar oil more often than that. I've got 2 new chains on the wall, and I'll check them for the wear indicators as I have a feeling that the old ones are just plain worn out.

Have a good one,
Dave

 

[rockinmywaypa]

usually I'll go over the chain with a file every 2 or 3 tankfulls of gas. I don't like using gauges or motorized sharpeners, just a good fairly new handheld file. Most chains have a line on the cutter tooth that will give you an indication of how much life is left in the chain. Hopefully not off topic but how does stihl saws compare with husquvarnas? I'am asking because this week my husqy fried a piston and scored the cylinder. Repairs equal price of new almost. Apparently when certain gaskets or seals leak air it really leans out the mixture and frys things in a hurry.

 

[NIXON]

Rock...
I'm pretty much with you as far a sharpening... Every other tank full unless I hit something that isn't wood .
generally you can tell the condition of the chain by the chips it throws . your point about chain files is very well made . I replace them often as they tend to dull almost as much as the chains .
As to husqvarna V Stihl ...... They're both good . I own an 044,and a Husky 346XP . They're both great. But given as the Husky 346 is the rough equivalant as the 026 or 029 Stihl I'd give the 346 the nod . Also take a look at the Shindawa saws .
Very tough ,but not as greatly supported . John

 

[Docsknotinn]

I have always used Stihl in the past but their new eMatic oiler system isnt worth a flyin wood chip. I have a 026 Pro that gives me fits. Burns less than 1/3 a tank of bar oil to the tank of gas. Bar over heats, dulls the chain and The clutch slips because it overheats as well due to the lack of Oil. I have never used a Husky and probably never will only because where my property is no one carrys them. If the Stihl breaks down (again) I can at least run to town and get parts. I would give the 357 XP the nod if some one here serviced them. Dave

 

[WCarlson]

I have two Stihls (029 and a 460 super mag) Two McCulloch (Pro Mac 10-10 and a little 35 cc with a 14 inch bar that I use when climbing) and an Echo Power Pruner. I sharpen my own chains with a power sharpener and spin my own chains out of 100 foot chain reels. I do a lot of wood and use chip size as the determining factor for sharpness. When a chain gets worn to the point where it doesn't cycle on the automatic advance on the sharpener, it goes. It also goes if a single tooth is bent or peened over. Hanging on to a damaged chain or using one that isn't sharp is as bad as not wearing your safety equipment. I always use full head protection, steel toed lumberman's boots, kevlar spats that reach from the steel toes to the chaps, kevlar chaps and kevlar chainsaw gloves. I am happy with my Stihl saws and like them better than the Husky's I have looked at. It is probably a <font color="green"> green</font> vs. <font color="orange"> orange</font> issue, I like <font color="green"> green </font> and Stihl. the most important thing when using a chain saw is to be safe. The time it takes to fully rig up and/or change a dull chain is insignificant compared to the trip to the emergency ward. Be safe.
Bill

 

[gsganzer]

I'll touch up the chain every few tanks, or if I hit something (Hitting dirt is like hitting sandpaper). I don't use any sharpening guides, just a good sharp file (Of the correct diameter) with a handle. You'll get the eye for the proper angle (most blades have an etched line indicating proper angle and the end of life point.

You also need a flat file to take the rakers down periodically (about every 2 - 3 sharpenings). The rakers are between each blade and help remove the chips. If the rakers are too high, they prevent the sharpened blade from biting the wood. If the tops of the blades are dirty, that usually means the rakers are too high and need filing. You should only make 1 or 2 passes on each raker with the flat file. If you file the rakers too much, the blade will "grab" too much.