Chain selection and plow chosen for my tractor

[vtsnowedin]

Raising the loader, and hence the plow, off the surface,(ground/grade/snow) puts the weight on the front tires and allows them to have better traction than just placing the plow on the surface which reduces traction at the front tires. The concept is to PUSH snow, not to scrape down to dirt/asphalt, etc. In order to push snow one does not need to have the snowblade edge scrape clean the surface- it just needs to skim it.
Talons, sure- for what money?
Tires loaded, yes.

That won't work well except on perfectly level ground. When you crest a hill and start down the plow will be held in the plane the tractor is on until the rear wheels get to the new grade and leave a patch of thick snow just where you least want it. Coming to the bottom of a hill from a flat the plow will get to the ground first and follow it up like it should, assuming you haven't mounted it ridged so it can't, but then come back up to your skim position when the whole tractor gets on the new grade. The whole effect will look like a bad haircut. scalped here missed there. Your trying to use it like a bulldozer or grader which are meant to fill in lows and shave highs but even those are put into float when they need to follow the ground.
New Talons are not cheap. I saw one site that had them in my size 13.9 x 28 for about $1100 a pair. I got mine of Craigslist for $350 but had to lengthen them to fit. They work so well though I think even new ones are well worth it.

 

[r40kh]

I have the HLA 3000 which I bought one year ago. It's the 9' model and I have it on my M7040 and love it. Paid $3395.00 which I think was a good price, but I did dump over $50K for the tractor and attachments

 

[Coyote machine]

I have the HLA 3000 which I bought one year ago. It's the 9' model and I have it on my M7040 and love it. Paid $3395.00 which I think was a good price, but I did dump over $50K for the tractor and attachments

Have any pics of it in action? Would like your description of how you use it- technique, and how it works compared to standard blade plows...
Is that American or Canadian dollars you paid?

Thx,

CM

 

[Coyote machine]

That won't work well except on perfectly level ground. When you crest a hill and start down the plow will be held in the plane the tractor is on until the rear wheels get to the new grade and leave a patch of thick snow just where you least want it. Coming to the bottom of a hill from a flat the plow will get to the ground first and follow it up like it should, assuming you haven't mounted it ridged so it can't, but then come back up to your skim position when the whole tractor gets on the new grade. The whole effect will look like a bad haircut. scalped here missed there. Your trying to use it like a bulldozer or grader which are meant to fill in lows and shave highs but even those are put into float when they need to follow the ground.
New Talons are not cheap. I saw one site that had them in my size 13.9 x 28 for about $1100 a pair. I got mine of Craigslist for $350 but had to lengthen them to fit. They work so well though I think even new ones are well worth it.

Never said I can't float it from the loader too. I was speaking strictly as to how to get more weight, and thus traction on the front tires by taking the weight off the loader, and the plow blade at the same time.
It's capable of all angle and tilting with curl/dump of the joystick too, inclusive or independent of each other.
I can't speak to the talon chains except to say from what I've heard that they do a great job, and are pricey, but I'm sure worth it if one needs that level of grip/traction and fitment allows.

 

[vtsnowedin]

Never said I can't float it from the loader too. I was speaking strictly as to how to get more weight, and thus traction on the front tires by taking the weight off the loader, and the plow blade at the same time.
It's capable of all angle and tilting with curl/dump of the joystick too, inclusive or independent of each other.
I can't speak to the talon chains except to say from what I've heard that they do a great job, and are pricey, but I'm sure worth it if one needs that level of grip/traction and fitment allows.

You could use plow shoes set low to follow the ground and leave some snow behind and only suspend the plow from the loader arms when you need more front traction. I plowed three hours yesterday for a six inch storm. My set up is working well and it is way out front and no front chains. I have just one place where the road is banked wrong on a sharp curve and I have to split brake steer to swing the plow up hill and around that corner. Of course I could angle the plow the other way and plow the snow down hill but for such a short stretch I just tap the right brake and keep on going. I need to haul in some fill and gravel and level up that turn.

 

[Coyote machine]

You could use plow shoes set low to follow the ground and leave some snow behind and only suspend the plow from the loader arms when you need more front traction. I plowed three hours yesterday for a six inch storm. My set up is working well and it is way out front and no front chains. I have just one place where the road is banked wrong on a sharp curve and I have to split brake steer to swing the plow up hill and around that corner. Of course I could angle the plow the other way and plow the snow down hill but for such a short stretch I just tap the right brake and keep on going. I need to haul in some fill and gravel and level up that turn.

Nice shot! Do you let your JD plow by itself or is there usually someone driving it?!
Is that a JD QA plate or a custom setup?
If by set the shoes low you mean dropped down, that is what I'm fooling with currently. I find my loader QA plates and plow's QA frame are sometimes too close the the ground, and I need to be able to get the shoes set and angle the blade back some to skim the surface without diggin' in. Digging in with the plow blade edge is what puts a lot of potential stress on the loader arms.
I've got to experiment with the setup to figure out what will work best.:confused2:

 

[vtsnowedin]

Nice shot! Do you let your JD plow by itself or is there usually someone driving it?!
Is that a JD QA plate or a custom setup?
If by set the shoes low you mean dropped down, that is what I'm fooling with currently. I find my loader QA plates and plow's QA frame are sometimes too close the the ground, and I need to be able to get the shoes set and angle the blade back some to skim the surface without diggin' in. Digging in with the plow blade edge is what puts a lot of potential stress on the loader arms.
I've got to experiment with the setup to figure out what will work best.:confused2:

I just stopped and put it in park and got out to take the pic. It does look like it is moving though doesn't it. I built the plate myself with the help of the local auto shop that did the welding for me. I have a thread on it (8ft fisher plow for 5045E) The top hooks and pins are parts from my local JD dealer and steel plate and angle iron from the local source . I laid out the push beam from the truck set up low on the push plate in line with the bottom pins on the loader arms. That leaves the plow frame level as it is meant to run with the bottoms of the loader arms about eight inches off the ground.
The trip edge works as it should and the plow can jump up over things by rotating around the push pins which helps reduce damage potential but I still need to put in a cushion valve between the angle pistons and install a new cutting edge. With the plow angled and no chains on the front when I come into a frozen snow bank too fast the front just gets pushed off sideways. I'm learning to anticipate and have the clutch already in and let the momentum finish the pass without it bouncing me around.

 

[Coyote machine]

Try this site for your cutting edge: plowrubber.com I've never used them but it seems like it might be what you're looking for.
This would give you some cushioning, in addition to installing a 'crossover valve' of the correct hydraulic psi setting between your pistons, before they return to the plow hydraulics. Crucial for not sending forces to your loader arms that could permanently rack them into a pretzel.

 

[vtsnowedin]

I'll give them a look see. Thanks

 

[r40kh]

Sorry no picks in action. I love the blade as my previous weapon was an 8' straight blade with no power angle so I was continually cleaning up. The m7040 handles the 9 footer with no problem. Only annoying feature is that the crossover relief valve seems to operate easily if I contact the snowbank when plowing ...but that's the way it was designed and I'd rather not bend my loader arms. The price quoted was in canadian dollars. Also bought an 86" rad tech blower with the package but have hardly used it because we keep getting rained on and I can't get a good base