Chains front and rear, or just rear?

[B2320]

I purchased chains for the rear of my 2320 and then discovered my old rear cub cadet 149 chains fit perfectly on the front of the 2320. It is a GO MACHINE with front and rear chains. I even mentioned the fact about the front chains to my dealer when he asked me how it worked plowing my driveway and he had nothing negative to say. The B2320 and I will be celebrating our one year anniversary between Christmas and New Year's, so the current lake effect snows are the tractor's second snow season. I live on the side of a hill and the chains make it possible to plow the drive when it's icy.

 

[ayelvington]

I have a BX-24 with front and rear chains. The front chains are really necessary steering control as well as drive traction. I have wheel spacers in the back, and that would appear necessary for clearance issues with the rear chains.

 

[IdahoTractor]

OK, so I think I can assume that overload is a non-issue. But are rear chains enough?

It probably depends on the grade/slope and surface type you're plowing. My drive is slightly more than a mile long that is literally up a mountain. It is also paved. I have grades as great as 15%. Without front chains, my steering is nearly impossible while plowing uphill. When the plow is pushing snow uphill, it in effect causes the front end of the tractor to want to rise (even in float). Thus, the weight is coming off the front tires and the tires begin to slide (i.e., wear down my tread). Thus, I have chains on all fours.

I suppose that if you have a short driveway of less than say 1,000 feet and it's relatively flat (no slope greater than 5%), then you probably don't require front chains. If you do put on front chains, I don't think you'll experience any problems at all. If someone can find a post on this message board or anywhere else on the Internet indicating that front chains damaged their tractor's front axle or drive train, then I'll certainly stand corrected.

Incidentally, my county plows with large graders rather than plow-mounted trucks. I've noticed that all the graders run chains on all the drive axles as well....

 

[funwithahoe]

It probably depends on the grade/slope and surface type you're plowing. My drive is slightly more than a mile long that is literally up a mountain. It is also paved. I have grades as great as 15%. Without front chains, my steering is nearly impossible while plowing uphill. When the plow is pushing snow uphill, it in effect causes the front end of the tractor to want to rise (even in float). Thus, the weight is coming off the front tires and the tires begin to slide (i.e., wear down my tread). Thus, I have chains on all fours.

I suppose that if you have a short driveway of less than say 1,000 feet and it's relatively flat (no slope greater than 5%), then you probably don't require front chains. If you do put on front chains, I don't think you'll experience any problems at all. If someone can find a post on this message board or anywhere else on the Internet indicating that front chains damaged their tractor's front axle or drive train, then I'll certainly stand corrected.

Incidentally, my county plows with large graders rather than plow-mounted trucks. I've noticed that all the graders run chains on all the drive axles as well....

Wow! Sounds like our winters (in Pennsylvania) are your summers!!

Your post makes a good point about the vast difference in uses a tractor gets which is why it is important not only to take into account the advice you receive on here but also your application. I am reading these posts thinking the chains are probably overkill on a "B" or bigger but in an application like yours (as I am sure many people on here have) I can't imagine not having chains.

 

[David s Von Gieserbrechta]

Well being in Toronto as you are your snow is probably a little different than the stuff we get here in Manitoba. Much like we are getting right now-24c with a high north wind blowing snow. Just try pushing into a four foot drift of that stuff without chains on all four wheels, the the wind shreds the snow to a fine powder and then packs that crap like concrete.

So I have wheel weights on the rear and the front end weights plus chains all around so I'm pretty much good to go, but even so I know that this morning is still going to be a hard slug with 250' of driveway to clear.

But at least it won't be as bad as it used to be with a little 10 horse Allis and a front mount single stage blower. The little woman was not amused when she would have to be out in front of the blower with a snow saw cutting out chunks and breaking them off with a pry-bar so that the blower actually had something to work with.

 

[funwithahoe]

Well being in Toronto as you are your snow is probably a little different than the stuff we get here in Manitoba. Much like we are getting right now-24c with a high north wind blowing snow. Just try pushing into a four foot drift of that stuff without chains on all four wheels, the the wind shreds the snow to a fine powder and then packs that crap like concrete.

So I have wheel weights on the rear and the front end weights plus chains all around so I'm pretty much good to go, but even so I know that this morning is still going to be a hard slug with 250' of driveway to clear.

But at least it won't be as bad as it used to be with a little 10 horse Allis and a front mount single stage blower. The little woman was not amused when she would have to be out in front of the blower with a snow saw cutting out chunks and breaking them off with a pry-bar so that the blower actually had something to work with.

What's a snow saw? Oh and I have side with the little lady on that one!

 

[crazyal]

I would chain up the rear and try it out. Used your brakes to steer and see how it goes. If you feel you still need more control then order a set.

 

[RoyJackson]

I would chain up the rear and try it out. Used your brakes to steer and see how it goes. If you feel you still need more control then order a set.

Excellent suggestion!

An old thread did discuss front chains. One poster made mention of a Deere engineer "not recommending" front chains as it could overstress the axle gearing. That makes some sense as the front wheel drive is an assist more then a full time part of the driveline.
Although I have read threads (on TBN) of front axle failures, I cannot recall any that attributed the failure to front chains.
However, the rear axle is the main driver. It would make sense to chain the rear tires only unless there is a real need to add chains to the front tires (to help steering). This would prbably be most applicable in areas that frequently see heavy snowfalls (western NYS, Maine, etc.).

 

[David s Von Gieserbrechta]

What's a snow saw? Oh and I have side with the little lady on that one!

This is a Snow saw, no joke. We used to use it to cut snow into blocks so that we could haul them into the barn for the cattle when the well would freeze up in January. It was also used to cut steps into very large snow banks so that we could get to the barn.

It's really nothing more than a hand saw with the teeth re cut, not much good for fine cabinetry but it does a great job on snow.

 

[SensibleNick]

I just finished making my chains. I ran with only the rears to move a lot of snow, and found that the front wheels merely suggest direction when they're naked.

Sure... Split brakes will fix that, but I don't expect my missus to be able to deal with that.

Front chains made the world of difference.

Rest of the photos here. Picasa Web Albums - Nick - Tractor Chains