Chainsaw Chain 101

   / Chainsaw Chain 101 #11  
There's a section on chainsaws in this forum:
http://www.forestryforum.com/cgi-bin/board/YaBB.pl#general
And in that section there's some great info on chains. I've been cuttin' for almost thirty years for house heat and have just recently learned that it's the chain tooth point that starts the cut and it's the tooth SIDE that does the cutting. The top is for clearing the chip. I thought it was always the top that did the cutting! Never too old to learn.....
 
   / Chainsaw Chain 101 #12  
Looking at the pictures it appears that someone tried to cut with that chain well after it was too dull. The rounding over of the cutting edge suggests that it was chewying through the wood rather than slicing it. The harder you have to push to make a chain cut the more damage you can do.

There are very high temperatures generated at the cutting edge of the chain especiall when it is dull. The chain will not hold an edge until you get beyond the heat affected area of the metal.

The piece of metal that sticks up in front of the tooth is the raker which determines the depth each tooth will cut down into the wood. There are gauges you can buy to adjust the rakers in relationship top the cutting egde of the tooth. As you sharpen the tooth the cutting edge moves away from the raker which causes a less deep cut.

You can have a sharpe cutting edge and too high a raker, this condition will produce a chain that you have to really push on to make it cut.

Randy
 
   / Chainsaw Chain 101 #13  
That chain is also way too loose. When cold, there should be NO gap at the bottom. I agree, it looks as if the chain and bar have been getting hotter than normal due to all the discolorization. If the bar has not been filed and made true in some time, if may be way overdue.
 
   / Chainsaw Chain 101 #14  
Another note, be sure and sharpen each link the same number of strokes, I like 3 strokes at a time myself. The same goes for the depth gauge or stubs as you called them. Go slow on these, if you get too much the saw will catch and kick back and stick in the log. Use a small flat file on these. The little gauge/stubs make all the difference. The saw will throw big chips of wood out the back instead of sawdust!

Its a real art to it, you will be proud of yourself once you learn this. People will be bringing their saws to you to sharpen.

Sherpa
 
   / Chainsaw Chain 101 #15  
Another tip:
Here is a pic of the inexpensive sharping guide that holds your file. Once you know the correct angle get your wifes finger nail polish and mark that groove on the guide in red. It will stay on there forever. I keep fingernail polish in my tool box for marking stuff!
Sherpa
 

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   / Chainsaw Chain 101 #16  
Thats a great idea!
Of course I would have to get a bottle of it out of the bathroom without her knowing it and I would have to choose which red to use.

rose red, sunset red, blushing red, bright red, christmas red, cherry red.............not sure which one would match my Stihl the best. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / Chainsaw Chain 101 #17  
<font color="blue"> I keep fingernail polish in my tool box </font>

Uh oh Sherpa, what kind of forum have I gotten on/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif?

TK
 
   / Chainsaw Chain 101
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Many Thanks for the valuable Information !!! Thanks to you folks & the Stihl Link, I know a whole lot more now. I've been lucky up to this point because I've neglected the Saw & Chain because of the lack of knowledge. Now I can keep it in tip top shape. Off topic by a bit but do you guys have a rule of thumb when setting the air screws ?? How do I know when I've got them set properly? Also do you use fuel conditioner & are there any tips regarding oil mix for the gas (my manual says 40:1 I think) ?? There is different chain oil & do you have any tips on that ?? Thanks Again
 
   / Chainsaw Chain 101 #19  
I have an 041 AV Stihl that must be 30 years old, I have mixed at 32 to 1 since I got it in 1980. I use this mix in all of my Stihl's without any problems-ever. If the screws are set right, the saw will idle without dying and take off quickly when you pull the trigger. They will rap out to full RPM and shut down to an idle without dying. This is a fine adjustment and different on each saw, quite a knack to it.
 
   / Chainsaw Chain 101 #20  
Howdy GareyD,

Thanks for the link! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif Interesting reading. No matter how much knowledge you pick up around equipment, there's always more to learn; especially some occasionally-used equipment like a chainsaw.
Thanks again.
 
 
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