Chainsaw question

[Jeff396]

Just got a new chainsaw. It's a Husqvarna rancher model 55. Thing is I can't remember how tight the chain needs to be. Can anyone give me a good description on how much to tighten it. The manual says tighten until there is no slack on the bottom but the chain still can be pulled in its track. I'm just not sure how hard I have to pull or what exactly no slack means.

Jeff

 

[BWa]

I have a "husky" 357xp , the dealer told me that when you pull the chain at the bottom of the bar , that the guide teeth should not come out of the bar

 

[RobS]

Ditto what BWa said plus when you pull the chain at the bottom of the bar it should snap back when you release it. There is a lot of lattitude, so don't feel like you have to get out a micrometer or anything. Also, with a new chain be sure to stop and re-tighten frequently /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[Jeff396]

Thanks! You know I used to sharpen these things for my brother when he owned a Jonsered dealership a long time ago. Did plenty of takin' off and puttin' on. It's funny how much you forget with time!/w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif

Jeff

 

[Youare]

The adjustment methods given are correct. I have a Husky 257 and a 272XP, they are saws number 8 and 9 of the saws I have had over the years. After adjusting the chain when you retigthen the bar nuts, with a gloved hand, hold the underside of the bar up as you tighten the nuts. I have seen poeple push down on the bar while they tighten the bar nuts, this allows the bar to move up after you have started cutting and the chain becomes loose quickly.

A new chain will stretch quite a bit requiring frequent tightening. When you try to move the chain along the bar when the saw is off make sure you pull the chain along the bar, never push it. I found out the hard way one day and sliced my thumb pretty bad. Keep the chain tight, a loose chain can come off the bar while it is turning.

Randy

 

[dmccarty]

Jeff,

You are getting good answers especially Randy's with pulling the tip of the bar up when you tighten the bolts. My Stihl manual is very specific on pulling the tip of the bar up.

New chains need to be checked frequently. When the chain loosens, many times you can tell because the saw is not cutting like it should.

I tighten the chain so that the teeth stay in the bottom of the bar and will snap back into the grove when pulled out.

I also use the larger end of my chainsaw wrench to fit over a chain tooth and pull forward to make sure that the chain is tight but not too tight as well as to make sure everything is moving ok. This is how I found out I had bent a tooth when the chain came off the saw. Using the wrench keeps my hands away from those teeth...

I hope you bought some safety chaps and a either a face shield protector or chainsaw helmet. Don't forget eye protection. I figure the cost of my helmet and chaps does not even get close to what it would cost to walk into the emergency room door. Much less walk out after paying the bill. Course you can put a price on loosing a leg or ones life.....

Good luck...
Dan McCarty

 

[dummy]

All good points. I was also taught to check the chain as soon as I'm done using it . This way a "hot" chain won't get too tight on the bar when it cools off.

 

[Jeff396]

I bought the combo helmet, ear protection, eye protection when I ordered the saw. I have to admit the chaps are a new one on me but I do have an order sheet sitting on my printer as I write. Now I just have to fill it out and send it in. $75.00 seems little to pay for a little piece of mind.

Jeff

2001 B7500HSD, LA302fel, 60"mmm, grass catcher

 

[art]

Jeff we sell Husky and Stihl chainsaws and we tell our customers the same on both makes to tighten the chain till a dime can just be slide under a driver. While the dime is still under the chain the bar will go to the up position due to the tightness of the chain. Check it out it works everytime.

 

[cowboydoc]

Jeff,
If you feel you need chaps I would just get shoeing chaps. They are only about $40.