Changing hydraulic fluid?

   / Changing hydraulic fluid? #11  
DON'T make the mistake I almost made when changing my hydraulic fluid. My M6040 has 16+ gallons. I was going to use four - five gallon pails. Then it hit me - how will I move a full five gallon pail and not have the fluid still draining out on the ground. Before I can get an empty one under the tractor.

My wife has many 20 gallon Tupperware "quilt tubs". Worked like a champ. I got the wife two new ones for letting me use one of hers.

If you drop the drain plug in the "soup" - because it and the oil are so hot. Don't panic. You can always fish it out after all the oil has drained.

I also use the large Tupperware style tubs when draining the hydraulic / transmission fluid. My machine holds 11 gallons, and I drain the differential and main case separately so it's easier to deal with the old fluid.
 
   / Changing hydraulic fluid? #12  
Another point. Loosening the drain plug. I assume you are lying on your back. Under the tractor. Reaching UP and slowly loosening the drain plug. You might want to crawl out - before it's completely loose. Reposition yourself so you are reaching DOWN and under the pan.

This way as you pull the plug - VERY HOT oil will not run down your arm and grease your arm pit. BTDT.
 
   / Changing hydraulic fluid? #13  
Myself, I use an old aluminum diesel truck tank I plasma cut to fit. It holds at least 40 gallons and I TIG welded on handles. Nothing worse than an overflowing drain pan.
 
   / Changing hydraulic fluid? #14  
I just don't like handling something flat enough to slide under a tractor and filled with 10 to 15 gallons of oil. That's a formula for a mess. How do you empty it?

I wonder if a person could use some of that fairly stiff plastic tubing and a battery powered pump to pull most of the oil out through the filler hole. That is how Generac generators recommend changing the engine oil. In fact, our Generac came with the pump and tubing.

rScotty
 
   / Changing hydraulic fluid? #15  
I bought something similar to this at my local Fleet Farm:


Worked like a champ to change my 11 gals of hydro fluid plus the tractor oil change and the wheels and handles made it relatively easy for my wife and I to transport and dump at our local waste oil recycling facility.
 
   / Changing hydraulic fluid? #17  
Got you all whipped. I paid 10 bucks at the scrap yard for a 150 gallon aluminum fuel tank off a wrecked truck and I plasma cut 1/3rd of it apart and added aluminum bar stock handles (TIG welded on). Fits under both tractors and holds at least 20 gallons of oil which I put back into the 5 gallon pails the new oil came out of.

I use a 10 buck Harbor Freight D cell battery operated pump to suck it out of the pan and back into the pails. Being the enterprising individual I am, I replaced the D cell batteries with rechargeable Li-Ion D cells and I already had the charger.

What was left of the dented fuel tank went back to the scrap yard and got 15 bucks credit so the tank made me money in the end.

I roast ALL my drain oil and brake fluid and contaminated diesel fuel in my Clean Burn waste oil furnace that helps heat the shop. I'm cheap or as my wife says.... Frugal.

if it has scrap value it always gets 'recycled'. Even bad bullets and dented brass. I do have to recycle the used AF but I put that in the local truck dealership's tank and Safety Kleen handles that. Not sure where it goes but I imagine it is cleaned and reused or maybe sold in bulk. I don't believe AF ever wears out.

Get my engine oil in 55 gallon returnable drums (5-40 Rotella T6) used oil goes to the oil burner. I use Rotella T6 in everything 4 stroke. Have for years now.

I'd get my hydraulic fluid in 55's as well but I cannot. Only comes in 5's even though 2 tractors is 2/3rd of a 55 gallon drum (15 gallons a change times 2). I use Chevron All weather THC synthetic. it's not cheap but for me, works excellent.

I use 85-140 gear oil as well, but not enough to warrant a bulk buy. A 5 gallon pail of 85-140 Spirax works fine.
 
   / Changing hydraulic fluid? #18  
. . . When I use a different engine oil, my old ears can't hear any difference in how the engine sounds. But from reading and following the threads here on TBN for 20 years, it's pretty common for guys to be able to hear the difference in their tractor with some trans/hydraulic oils - especially with HST. . .

I haven't been on the forum as long as rScotty but concur that most relevant posts support the better results from the manufacturer's fluid. I have only used Kubota's SUDT2 in my Kubota, had no problems, and will endorse the common wisdom despite the premium price. The fact the OP asked the question indicates he is not the alchemnist to brew up a better replacement fluid.

That said, an oil analysis from a reputable lab will cost around $30 (about the cost of a gallon fo fluid). You (OP) could analyze what came in the tractor or make the change and analyze in around 500 hours; then follow the lab's recommendations. Do make the scheduled filter changes including servicing any cleanable strainers. As 5030 noted, ATF doesn't go bad. It may become contaminated with water, particles, or spent additives that may be noted by milky fluid at implement changes (expecially with not your own), prevented by religious filter changes, or noted on lab analyses.

Many have suggestions on holding the quantity you will drop on a total fluid change. There are threads on using a shop vac to hold fluid back while making filter only changes.
 
   / Changing hydraulic fluid? #19  
Don't you wish someone would come up with a better scheme for changing oil? Something nicer than crawling under the machine with a wrench and a bucket? Our Kubota is the worst - even worse than our JDs. Kubota put all the hydraulic filters are under there too! They could just as easily be at waist level on the side of the tractor.
rScotty
They do make them. Put in "transmission fluid extractor and filler pump" and Amazon pumps will show up. Pretty slick.

 
 
Top