I have acquired a Charles Machine Works trencher. Been sitting in a barn for at least 16 years dormant. I have turned the engine over and no comp. I guess a valve could be stuck open. I have a 13hp Honda OHV that used to be a pressure washer that needs a home. Has anyone ever repowered one of these old trenchers with a modern engine? Is it possible to fabricate an adapter plate for the gearbox. I haven't been able to move this thing to my shop yet to start examining it closer. Any information will be appreciated
Charles Machine Works trencher repower question
airbiscuit
Super Member
- Joined
- Aug 28, 2004
- Messages
- 5,850
- Location
- NW Wisconsin
- Tractor
- New Holland T2310, Kubota L3010 GST, New Holland TC21DA, Farmall H *** Previously - 1941 John Deere B, Shibaura SD1500, John Deere 850, Bobcat 642, New Holland 1925
airbiscuit
Super Member
- Joined
- Aug 28, 2004
- Messages
- 5,850
- Location
- NW Wisconsin
- Tractor
- New Holland T2310, Kubota L3010 GST, New Holland TC21DA, Farmall H *** Previously - 1941 John Deere B, Shibaura SD1500, John Deere 850, Bobcat 642, New Holland 1925
DJ54
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2009
- Messages
- 4,227
- Location
- Carroll, Ohio
- Tractor
- IH Farmall 656 gas/ IH 240 Utility/ 2, Super C Farmalls/ 2, Farmall A's/ Farmall BN/McCormick-Deering OS-6/McCormick-Deering O-4/ '36 Farmall F-12/ 480 Case hoe. '65 Ford 2000 3 cyl., 4 spd. w/3 spd Aux. Trans
That looks like a Wisconsin engine. I'd be tempted to pull the plug out, roll engine to TDC, then put a 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone in the cylinder. Amount would vary, but like enough to puddle up where you can see it through the hole. Pu the plug back in and let it set for a day or so, then check it. You'll more than likely see it gone by then. Roll the engine over and see if it has compression. If not do it again and see what happens. I've unstuck more than several valves using this method.
The reason valves stick in these old air cooled engines is because a lot of people don't let them idle for a while and cool down. If you would happen to get things freed up and running, drain and flush the crankcase to get the mix out of there. Get some Marvel Mystery Oil and add suggested amount to gas and oil, it will lubricate the upper cylinder and valves. I use it in all of my 40's-50's era engines I have on garden tractors, etc. Good stuff and it works.
You'll probably have to dress the points in the Mag too and set gap.
Model number of engine should be stamped in the plate riveted to the flywheel shroud. Model number of Mag. should be stamped on its case too. Here is a link to an OEM service and parts manual for several models of the Wisconsin. www.pittauto.com/customer/piauel/pdf/Wisconsin_AA_AB_AK.pdf in a pdf file It should include that engine. If the Mag would happen to need new points or condenser, use the OEM part number found in this online manual to look for them. I got a new set of both from our local Columbus Diesel Supply who is a dealer for Robyn/Wisconsin engines. I called them to check and see if they could get them and they actually had them in stock on the shelf. Not saying you'll have the same experience, but parts are readily available.
Those are great old engines if taken care of right.
The reason valves stick in these old air cooled engines is because a lot of people don't let them idle for a while and cool down. If you would happen to get things freed up and running, drain and flush the crankcase to get the mix out of there. Get some Marvel Mystery Oil and add suggested amount to gas and oil, it will lubricate the upper cylinder and valves. I use it in all of my 40's-50's era engines I have on garden tractors, etc. Good stuff and it works.
You'll probably have to dress the points in the Mag too and set gap.
Model number of engine should be stamped in the plate riveted to the flywheel shroud. Model number of Mag. should be stamped on its case too. Here is a link to an OEM service and parts manual for several models of the Wisconsin. www.pittauto.com/customer/piauel/pdf/Wisconsin_AA_AB_AK.pdf in a pdf file It should include that engine. If the Mag would happen to need new points or condenser, use the OEM part number found in this online manual to look for them. I got a new set of both from our local Columbus Diesel Supply who is a dealer for Robyn/Wisconsin engines. I called them to check and see if they could get them and they actually had them in stock on the shelf. Not saying you'll have the same experience, but parts are readily available.
Those are great old engines if taken care of right.
The Wisconsin is repairable but I think I am going to put it on the shelf for a rainy day. I currently am working on a way to repower with a Honda GX390. I have acquired and fabricated the necessary parts, just need to do the final fitting and assembly. Wish me luck!
etpm
Veteran Member
I'm surprised that you can use a different engine. I would think the the motor shafts would be too different. Anyway, since it is a Wisconsin engine I think you would be much better served by fixing the original engine. The Wisconsin engine almost certainly has more torque than the Honda. And the experience I have had with Wisconsin engines makes me think they are much better suited to that ditch digger than a Honda engine.
Eric
The Wisconsin is not in running condition but repairable. The Honda GX 390 is rated at 20 ft/lbs of torque at 2500 rpm while the Wisconsin is rated at 16.2 ft/lbs of torque at 2400 rpm. The Honda was looking for a home and I never pass on a chance to employ Miller Lite assisted engineering! I have purchased a shaft adapter and will need to shorten the Honda shaft around 5/8 in. I also have fabricated an adapter plate to bolt the gearbox to a Honda engine. I am waiting on a couple gearbox bearings before I can assemble everything.
etpm
Veteran Member
I'm surprised the Honda has more torque. Shows what I know. Thanks for posting that.
Eric