CK 30 HST new user questions

[jimmyj]

Got the new tractor home but the dealer won't have the manual for me till next week as he lost it. I have a few questions for the group that did not occur to me at the dealership.

1. What uses do you recommend for the 1, 2, 3 ranges? Is 3rd really only for driving from one place to another? Can I use 2nd for snowplowing?

2. As related to the above, what RPM's do you recommend for regular applications such as driving around, plowing, towing, loader and BH work?

3. Any tips on the HST foot pedal? - My feet are size 13 but I have a bit of trouble keeping my foot on the rocker pedal. I seem to always be moving it from the forward part to the reverse part vs keeping it in a rocker position.

4. What are the plastic knobs that screw into the vertical front surface of the ROPS for? I get the pins to use to change it between the 3 positions but not the knobs.

5. Any tips for filling the fuel without spilling on the body from a gas can?

6. Any tips for removal of the BH?

7. Advice about when to use the Diff lock or 2WD vs 4WD.

8. I have 2 sets of forklift forks that I'm going to rig up for either the FEL or the 3ph or both. Any strings on this forum about making brackets to use in place of the bucket? (I will search but if anybody has one in mind they think is particularly good I figured I would ask).

9. Anything else you want to offer, don't be shy.

NOTE: I have read a lot about being careful about exiting on the side with the FEL controller - already 2x I have had it get caught in my jacket. I'm not exiting from that side any more.

NOTE 2: I love this tractor, it is great!

NOTE 3: More seat time will = more questions!

 

[Dmace]

Lets see...

1) 1st range is good for ground engaging work like a rear blade or boxblade, and most loader work unless it is just digging into a pile of loose gravel. I would not recommend 2nd for plowing unless you are sure to keep the speed down, as tempting as it would be to plow snow at 15mph on a tractor it could lead to a disaster if you hit something solid. 3rd gear really is a travel gear where 2nd is used for mowing and other medium speed tasks.

2) Any backhoe work on my CK20 is done at 2100rpms, any higher and the backhoe moves too fast and is jerky. You don't get any more power from higher rpms just faster movement, you still hit the relief valves before the engines bogs. I use 2400rpms for any moving and loader work since doing both can bog the motor some at lower rpms. This is more of a feel for the tractor that you need to find and you will with practice. You can find the sweet spot in the rpm range. The only time I use close to the max rpms is for snowblowing since it requires 540rpms at the PTO.

3) I use the tip of my foot and just move from forward to reverse. I tried resting my foot on the pedal and rocking but it tends to really stress my shin and calve muscles and is not comfortable. It is like second nature once you are used to just moving your foot from forward to reverse.

4) I have never lowered my ROPS due to the cab but I am pretty sure those are to be removed for lowering the ROPS also.

5) Use a funnel, specifically one that seperates any water from the diesel like this one: Mr Funnel

6) Park on a level spot, extend bucket so the it sits flat on the ground and lower stabilizers to the point where they just touch. Then pull the locking pins from the rear subframe mount, and slowly pull forward. If the backhoe does not easily slide out, keeping adjust the bucket and stabilizers to help take the weight off of the frame. Having an HST really helps because I like to move the tractor forward and backwards (mounting/dismounting) while off the tractor and just using my hand on the pedal for those slight movements.
Once the BH frame is off the tractor frame, lower the bucket and stabilizers so the frame sits flat on the ground and then shut off the hydraulic flow to the rear remotes, lever on fender A-N-B (on my CK20) and disconnect the hoses making sure to put the protective covers on the quick disconnects.

7) I always leave my tractor in 2wd (unless snowblowing) and use the diff lock when stuck, 4wd when really stuck. If you get stuck in 2wd, 4wd will almost always get you unstuck. If you get stuck in 4wd, you aren't going anywhere.

8) Search

9) KEEP THE MACHINE AND ATTACMENTS GREASED AND CHECK FLUIDS REGULARY, it is very important.

All my experience is on a CK20 so some things might be different but a lot of it is general.

HAVE FUN!

 

[Mousefield]

Hi, I got my new CK35 HST this June and have 74 hours on it.
Mostly use it on our 14 acre hobby farm. (Goats and chickens)

I have found I mostly use it in 2nd gear and occasionally 1st if doing heavy work.
If traveling (to fast) over ground rather than pavement I find 3rd makes the machine bounce to much. Part of that may be due to the fact I have a backhoe on it. I don稚 go that far so it does not make a huge difference to me.

I usually run it in the 2100 to 2400 RPM range.

I have a size 12 foot and usually wear gum boots when running the tractor and have not notice a problem with the foot pedal, I normally do not have my foot on both the forward and back pedal at the same time.

I use a funnel when filling, usually the tank is almost empty and the can I use will fill it up without over filling. When I fill the can I put in about how much the tank will take therefore less chance of spilling from over filling.

I have not taken the backhoe off yet but I understand it is not that difficult or time consuming, just plan ahead and follow the instructions.

Unless I have to I only use 2WD and have used 4WD only a few times.

If anything I over grease the machine, very important to do this. I also changed all the fluids and filters at 50 hours. Have a couple of buckets that fit under the tractor for the HST fluid as there is a lot of it.

We have, for us on Vancouver Island, a lot of snow (four feet in the last 9 days and as low as -4 Fahrenheit) and have started and used the tractor with no problem. Starts easy and works well in the snow using four wheel drive. I am looking at getting chains for the back to help plow the neighborç—´ driveway as he is up and over a small hill. He had a bobcat come in to plow it and I知 sure it cost them a few bucks. They said if I plowed for them they would buy the chains. Got into a ditch yesterday while snow plowing with the front bucket and used the backhoe to lift the machine ç*¥p and over back onto the road.
Got more snow last night so off I go to use the best tractor in the world.

 

[IXLR8]

Got the new tractor home but the dealer won't have the manual for me till next week as he lost it. I have a few questions for the group that did not occur to me at the dealership.

1. What uses do you recommend for the 1, 2, 3 ranges? Is 3rd really only for driving from one place to another? Can I use 2nd for snowplowing?

I only use 3rd for moving from pt A to pt B.
I use 2nd for snowplowing, with my rear blade, if on level terrain, 1st if not.
1st for any FEL work.

2. As related to the above, what RPM's do you recommend for regular applications such as driving around, plowing, towing, loader and BH work?

I rarely use anything more than 1500 rpm unless I am in 3rd and in a hurry to get somewhere. I don't have any PTO attachements, yet, so no need to run full PTO speed. I typically run at 1300, all the power I need and things operate fast enough for me at that speed, I am not in a hurry.

3. Any tips on the HST foot pedal? - My feet are size 13 but I have a bit of trouble keeping my foot on the rocker pedal. I seem to always be moving it from the forward part to the reverse part vs keeping it in a rocker position.

When I am doing FEL work that requires precision movement, love the HST for that. I put my foot on the entire pedal so I can just tilt my foot for forward/reverse movement, but it is not comfortable for long periods. When doing most anything else, I just use my toe on the F part of the pedal or my heel on the R part of the pedal.

4. What are the plastic knobs that screw into the vertical front surface of the ROPS for? I get the pins to use to change it between the 3 positions but not the knobs.

I was told they were for antivibration so the ROPS didn't rattle. Mine are so tight I have not been able to get them loose yet.

5. Any tips for filling the fuel without spilling on the body from a gas can?

I use a 5 gal can that has vent built into the spout so you have to press the spout into the can before it opens the valve and lets the fuel out. New safety cans, it takes longer to fill the tank, pain to hold can down to hold valve open after can gets down to only 1/4 full... but I have no spillage... which is what it is designed to do.

6. Any tips for removal of the BH?

Choose a place that is firm and not going to move, no soft dirt. Block it in position before you undo it, set it on the blocks, pull pins, drive foward until free of tractor, 6"-8" only. Lower frame so it will clear tractor and be fully supported by blocks, turn tractor off. Disconnect hoses, insert bypass in BH Quick Disconnect fittings, or move remote valve to the neutral position. Start tractor and CAREFULLY drive away, be very careful around the HST filter that hangs down. The safety police might not be happy, but I stand beside the tractor and move the HST pedal by hand and watch the BH frame as it goes under the tractor making sure it will not catch on anything.
Install is reverse of above.

7. Advice about when to use the Diff lock or 2WD vs 4WD.

When you get stuck, or in snow use 4WD, if you are REALLY stuck, press the Diff Lock. Avoid use of 4WD on pavement/concrete or anything with good traction. Front wheels turn slightly faster than rears and the driveline needs a little slip. I basically leave it in 4WD all the time as I am never on anything other than grass or dirt.

8. I have 2 sets of forklift forks that I'm going to rig up for either the FEL or the 3ph or both. Any strings on this forum about making brackets to use in place of the bucket? (I will search but if anybody has one in mind they think is particularly good I figured I would ask).

I can't help you here.

9. Anything else you want to offer, don't be shy.

Be dilligent on your maintenance, don't spare the grease, have fun finding all the grease fittings... between FEL, tractor and BH there are close to 40 of them. 2 of them on the tractor have limited clearance and take a 90* nozzle. I think on my BH alone I counted 28, including the ones on the thumb. I suggest you get a good quality grease gun, battery or air powered. Your hand, and your machine, will thank you.

NOTE: I have read a lot about being careful about exiting on the side with the FEL controller - already 2x I have had it get caught in my jacket. I'm not exiting from that side any more.

There is a lock on the FEL control so if you get off that side it won't cause any movement... not worth the hassle to engage/disengage for me though.

 

[jimmyj]

Thanks, excellent help guys.

One message is loud and clear - keep on the maintenance and grease grease grease.

Spent a few hourse in the seat so far and I'm getting the hang of it pretty good. The thing works great. So far no issues starting even at almost -30 degrees. (I keep it in the barn, nice and dry).

Do any of you use diesel fuel conditioner? A truck driver pal of mine asked me if I had to use it and I have no clue.

Note: Can't wait to get my hands on the owners manual.

 

[CinderSchnauzer]

I have not taken the backhoe off yet but I understand it is not that difficult or time consuming, just plan ahead and follow the instructions.


We have, for us on Vancouver Island, a lot of snow (four feet in the last 9 days and as low as -4 Fahrenheit) and have started and used the tractor with no problem. Starts easy and works well in the snow using four wheel drive. I am looking at getting chains for the back to help plow the neighbor痴 driveway as he is up and over a small hill. He had a bobcat come in to plow it and I知 sure it cost them a few bucks.

We haven't had 4' of snow yet, however, I have Turf Tires and find leaving the BH on makes a huge difference in traction.

 

[williekioti]

Thanks, excellent help guys.

One message is loud and clear - keep on the maintenance and grease grease grease.

Spent a few hourse in the seat so far and I'm getting the hang of it pretty good. The thing works great. So far no issues starting even at almost -30 degrees. (I keep it in the barn, nice and dry).

Do any of you use diesel fuel conditioner? A truck driver pal of mine asked me if I had to use it and I have no clue.

Note: Can't wait to get my hands on the owners manual.

You've gotten excellent advise from the guys so far. I'll add a couple items;

Diff lock/FWD; I use it before I need it. Many times it saves you from getting stuck to begin with. I also find it saves on lawn damage at times by maintaining traction, rather than waiting until you spin a tire to engage. When I'm doing heavy loader work FWD is engaged and I step on the diff lock before entering a pile, then let up on it while moving to the "dump" spot. You'll get the hang of it. Just be careful when on hard, dry (high traction) surfaces, your driveline requires some slippage.

PM; check your tire pressures occaisionally (there's a recent thread here of mine detailing my lack of diligence to this "Clutch issues"). Just make sure if your tires are loaded that you put the stem at the 12 o'clock position to check.

Fuel conditioner; I certainly do. I use Power Service, grey bottle for summer and white(I think) for winter because it has anti-gelling properties. I boosts cetane(sp?), adds lubricating properties and some other stuff. With all the fuel reformulations the gov't throws at us it can't hurt. Good fuel is key to keeping your diesel engine happy and running smoothly.

Good luck with your new toy.

 

[Dmace]

I use Power Service also, white bottle in the winter and gray bottle the rest of the year. With this Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel (ULSD), it's nice piece of mind to have some lubricating additive in the diesel.