Clearing Trails

   / Clearing Trails #31  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( On wide and straight trails, the kids could go full bore and be more likely to have a high speed accident. )</font>

Sometimes I allow visitors to ride my 650 Kawasaki Quad around approx. 3 miles of dirt grove roads. Most sections are hilly with sharp dropoffs if they venture off the cleared road. There is one section about 10 ft. wide and 600 ft. long that is straight and flat and it seems that every young rider wants to test the speed of the Quad on that section. Just too hard to resist I guess. I consider it the most dangerous section of all.
 
   / Clearing Trails #32  
i have a large farm in NH. the first thing we purchased was an ATV to take advantage of the logging trails (20+ miles). in many cases, we had to 'clean' existing trails of small saplings. in other cases, we created new trails.

here's how we did it:

first, get a chain saw. use this for anything big. cut as clost to the ground as possible, paying careful attention to cut the stump flat (not angled).

second, i bought a trimmer (husquvarna) that has a rotary brush blade. beats the hand lopers on all saplings. in some cases, we decided to use the hand lopers to cut the sapling 'stumps' to ground level.

third (and probably the most important), put 'slime' in your tires. excellent, preventative measure that will protect your rubber against errant stumps, etc.

others have pointed out the safety concerns associated with ATVs. listen to all advice, and exercise extreme caution. these machines are inherently dangerous, especially for children who have the tendency to write checks their brains, bodies, and machines their riding, can't cash.

good luck - and be careful.

pf
 
   / Clearing Trails #33  
the best trail you can make is to try and not cut down any trees. me and my son made some trails on about 40 acres of property and the biggest tree we cut was about 3''. the way we did it was we drove the hpx through the woods and snaked our way around the trees . and trust me the end result was amazingthere is so many curves and difernt trees we pass that it crazy it really made a wild trail sure there are straight aways that are about 300 yards long on our trails but most of them are woody curvy trails. and everyday we walk and ride them and pass one of them big trees it brings up a story of how we had to turn the trail the other way /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif to go around the tree.the point i'm trying to make is don't move a obstical from out of your way when makin a atv trail .it only take away from the trail.
 
   / Clearing Trails #34  
I agree. That's exactly what I did with my skid steer. I hate the thought of someone cutting down a mature tree that could have been avoided by moving over 3-4 feet. When I cleared trails through my property it turned out to be somewhat curvy, and the largest tree I had to take out was about 8" in diameter, but it was unavoidable. The rest were smaller. Be carefull and avoid the big ones.
 
   / Clearing Trails #35  
Jim,

Hadn't thought of the Sawzall either. I think that sounds good in addition to the chain saw. I did not see any big trimmer blades for the Milwaukee Sawzall on the sites I looked at. I may have overlooked them. Does Milwaukee make these blades or are they from another source? Thanks for your help and a good idea.

Gary.
 
   / Clearing Trails #36  
the saws all will work great if you run a power inverter to the battery on your hpx and you got it made.for huricane katrina i ran a 20'' tv and a satellite box and a box fan for two hours at a time off my hpx batteryi did run the engine most of the time though /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif. but i know it will power a sawas all. i paid 75 for my inverter at wallyword it's a 750 watt.it works great. i'm putting in a second battery as we speak right now for added power.
 
   / Clearing Trails #37  
A cordless sawsall?? Really??

I just can't see where that could be better than loppers. Cutting a one inch sapling with loppers takes one second, there's no bending and then the sapling can be moved by gripping it with the loppers. Cutting a one inch sapling with a cordless sawsall invloves bending over, taking 20-30s for the sawsall to cut the tree/rattle your bones, then you have to bend over again to pick up the tree and move it. THEN you have to change the battery, what, like every tenth sapling? I just don't see what it buys you. Now bringing a generator and extension cords into the woods to run a corded sawsall? Pure lunacy. (I mean that in the most positive way /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif )

Brad
 
   / Clearing Trails #38  
Bmac,

One of the things I like about you is your ability to plan and your attention to detail. It's evident in your home that your building, and I got this feeling it will be in your trails as well.

An added benifit to hogging the saplings is no cleanup. All the material is turned to mulch!!! After hauling branches to the burn pile, you'll really appreciate this.

All the trails I made started with a pass or two with the tractor and bush hog on the back. My favorite method is to just find a thin spot in the saplings and run them down. I keep this up until I break something, or I get to the other side. Then I go over it a few more times trying to make it wider and either straighter or a more natural curve.

The little stumps and spikes left from mowing will rot away in time, and until they do, they usually don't present much of a hazard to ATV tires. Buy some slime and an air compresor. You'll end up with flats anyway, and slime works really well at keeping it to a minimum. Every one of my tires have slime in them, and it's a one time deal. Drive until you get a flat, fill with slime and wait until the next tire goes flat and repeat the process. hahahaha

Your fear of a chainsaw is well founded. They terify me as well. Everytime I use one, I think of all the things that could happen and how bad it's gonna hurt. Hopefully this fear keeps me cautious and it never happens.

Nothing will cut the trees like a chainsaw. Sawzalls are fine for cutting a limb here or there, but it's kind of silly to think you'll clear a decent sized trail with one.

In my opinion, that trail should be at least twice as wide as the four wheeler with three times the width being even better.

Chainsaws come in all sorts of sizes. One of my favorites is a little one on the end of a 12 foot pole that I use for cutting branches way up that I can't reach. It cuts right through the branches nice and fast.

For a starter chainsaw, I'd think a small one would be ideal for what you want to do. Something in the 12 inch bar range, or less. Just big enough to cut the limbs and small tree's you'll be dealing with. It will be very light and easy to control.

Just about everyone who sells chainsaws has the little ones. Just read through the brand discussions if that's important, othewise, buy from the closest supplier that your comfortable with.

You really suprised me with your reluctance to buy a trailer. I think this is a huge mistake on your part. Granted, you might not use if every day, or even once a month, but you will use it several times a year, and it will become one of those things you wont' be able to live without.

It's not just for hauling your tractor. I rarely use mine for that. How about culverts, pipe, lumber, furniture, ATV's, vehicles, plywood and just about anything else. The longer bed and lower platform make it easier to load than a pickup bed. Since you can disconnect it, you don't have to unload it right away either. I've left stuff on mine for weeks at a time to keep other areas clear that I was working on.

Look at 16 foot ones with duel axles. Mine was $900 brand new. Prices are usually pretty competitive, but do some research and compare before you buy. Like anything, some are better than others.

Good luck,
Eddie
 
   / Clearing Trails #39  
I used a crawler dozer to make my trails. It has a 6' 6-way blade. Tracks are 48" outside width. The 5 ton weight is spread across the tracks for 5 psi. That said turning tracks in soft soil will tear up ground as much as a Bobcat.

I nornally cut new trails in mid winter when the ground is frozen and the dozer simply snaps off the tree trunks at ground level. Ripping out the root makes a big hole that needs filling, compacting etc. For me not worth the bother. I make the trails narrow & wiggly, the farm roads are available for the 15 mph speed tests /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Kids know the rule is they do not go past the gates. The small saplings I leave for the roadbed, larger trees I drag out for firewood.

Your trail will look rough the first year but ages quickly & gracefully. Trail maintenance for me is a kid drives while I trim with lopers up one side & down the other.

Up here we have forested areas with trails & roads that go straight for miles speed is limited to 50 mph. Snowmobiles can reach 2x the limit or more.
 

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   / Clearing Trails #40  
I wish I had a bulldozer for trails at our hunting camp but we usually just use our fourwheelers.I have welded some expanded metal on the front of my fourwheeler so I do not have to worry about stick breaking my headlights or puncturing my oil cooler. I just head out throught the woods the dirrection I want the trail. This works good for small trails but for larger trails like you want The other sugestions will be alot better. For roads we usually break out the chain saws and our tractors.

Good luck!
 

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