svcguy
Gold Member
- Joined
- May 30, 2005
- Messages
- 362
- Location
- West Kootenays, British Columbia
- Tractor
- Yanmar YM240D / Massey Ferguson 135 / New Holland TN75F / Pasquali 988 and 997 / Goldoni 20A, 226 and Maxter 70RS / Ferrari 76 and 85 / Holder A50 / Valpadana VMC 180 / Long 610 4WD
Was away on business for a few days, but from what you have said, I would say your clutch plate is frozen or rusted to your flywheel. This is a common problem and as mentioned, many tractors have a small hook on the side plate and a pin on the clutch pedal to hook it out of contact when the tractor is stored. People have mixed feelings about locking the clutch back, but it makes sense during storage if you don't have access to a dry area.
Clutch disks are composites and many types have characteristics that are prone to sticking when left engaged (parked) for a while. Not all tractors are problematic, in fact, I have started tractors that were parked for 10 years without problems and others will stick after a short period of damp weather. It's due to the composites used in the clutch plate, not the tractor itself.
We always ensure the tractor is not stuck or frozen to the ground. This is not to be taken lightly - a frozen tractor can power over if given enough fuel in low gear: the solution for those parking outside is to always back up first to ensure the rear wheels are not frozen to the ground. When frozen and moving in reverse, it either breaks free or kills the motor by forcing the tractor down on the front wheels. Because tractors have the advantage of gear reduction final drives, starting a tractor frozen to the ground in 1st gear can simply lift the front end and power the entire tractor over. Take it from someone who has experienced this, you will not have the presence of mind to push in the clutch and stop it. In my case, the tractor broke free when the front axle was about eye level. It was not a pleasant landing for either the tractor or myself.
If you have the space, don't try and shift a tractor without the clutch, there is too much possibility of damage. (No syncro means no mercy for the transmission). If your tractor is in good shape and starts easily, you are better off (if and when possible) to simply start it in low gear (it won't hurt it) and drive off at low speed. Be ready to kill the engine if you need to stop and just drive around with the clutch pushed in until it lets go. Because in has been a relatively short period, this should not take much. If it is icey out, wait until the roads are clean and you have good traction.
By the way, you would be well off to drain your transmission fluid and either filter it or replace the oil to get rid of your grindings. Grinding gears leaves a fair bit of metal floating around in there and isn't good for bearings or the fine finish of everything else.
Clutch disks are composites and many types have characteristics that are prone to sticking when left engaged (parked) for a while. Not all tractors are problematic, in fact, I have started tractors that were parked for 10 years without problems and others will stick after a short period of damp weather. It's due to the composites used in the clutch plate, not the tractor itself.
We always ensure the tractor is not stuck or frozen to the ground. This is not to be taken lightly - a frozen tractor can power over if given enough fuel in low gear: the solution for those parking outside is to always back up first to ensure the rear wheels are not frozen to the ground. When frozen and moving in reverse, it either breaks free or kills the motor by forcing the tractor down on the front wheels. Because tractors have the advantage of gear reduction final drives, starting a tractor frozen to the ground in 1st gear can simply lift the front end and power the entire tractor over. Take it from someone who has experienced this, you will not have the presence of mind to push in the clutch and stop it. In my case, the tractor broke free when the front axle was about eye level. It was not a pleasant landing for either the tractor or myself.
If you have the space, don't try and shift a tractor without the clutch, there is too much possibility of damage. (No syncro means no mercy for the transmission). If your tractor is in good shape and starts easily, you are better off (if and when possible) to simply start it in low gear (it won't hurt it) and drive off at low speed. Be ready to kill the engine if you need to stop and just drive around with the clutch pushed in until it lets go. Because in has been a relatively short period, this should not take much. If it is icey out, wait until the roads are clean and you have good traction.
By the way, you would be well off to drain your transmission fluid and either filter it or replace the oil to get rid of your grindings. Grinding gears leaves a fair bit of metal floating around in there and isn't good for bearings or the fine finish of everything else.