confused about log splitters
- Thread starter Deepdrop
- Start date
Steve 3650
Member
The bottom line is, it depend on how you run your operation.
I was fortunate to be able to borrow a 3-point splitter, because that's what I thought I wanted. What I learned was, 1] splitting large rounds in the vertical position was harder on my body than rolling them up on the horizontal beam, and 2] it is a pain using the tractor for other purposes such as lifting and moving wood around or pulling a trailer. It could all be done, I didn't like it. I invested in a Wolf Ridge pull behind with a hydraulic log lift. I heat my house and shop with wood, but I don't want to make a big production of it, as I enjoy my time cutting and splitting wood. The log lift is like wearing chain saw chaps. Protecting my body as I age has has become more important.
I was fortunate to be able to borrow a 3-point splitter, because that's what I thought I wanted. What I learned was, 1] splitting large rounds in the vertical position was harder on my body than rolling them up on the horizontal beam, and 2] it is a pain using the tractor for other purposes such as lifting and moving wood around or pulling a trailer. It could all be done, I didn't like it. I invested in a Wolf Ridge pull behind with a hydraulic log lift. I heat my house and shop with wood, but I don't want to make a big production of it, as I enjoy my time cutting and splitting wood. The log lift is like wearing chain saw chaps. Protecting my body as I age has has become more important.
I have one more thing that is confusing the heck out of me. I'm now convinced that a standalone is the way to go. I see that there are gas powered as well as electric. They are all rated for ability to split logs up to a certain thickness and length, but the reviews on them all talk about splitting logs WAY beyond the advertised limit. For instance, a big box store sells an electric model rated to split logs up to 10 inch diameter. Right off the bat, the first reviewer says what a beast it is and how he routinely splits 23 inch thick logs, and it goes on and on with other reviewers.
Same is true of the gas powered models. Are the manufacturers just extremely conservative in the ratings? Should I buy one that has ratings appropriate for my 18-24" pine logs? Or can I really expect an electric WEN 6.5 ton model to split my 20 inch logs? Until I read the reviews I was thinking in terms of a 25 ton unit.
Again, thanks for the help. I really don't want to screw this up and I am very grateful for you all sharing your experience.
Same is true of the gas powered models. Are the manufacturers just extremely conservative in the ratings? Should I buy one that has ratings appropriate for my 18-24" pine logs? Or can I really expect an electric WEN 6.5 ton model to split my 20 inch logs? Until I read the reviews I was thinking in terms of a 25 ton unit.
Again, thanks for the help. I really don't want to screw this up and I am very grateful for you all sharing your experience.
oosik
Super Star Member
It depends upon how you want to be set up and how much you want to spend. I had a 30 ton stand alone splitter - Didier. My trees are ancient Ponderosa pines. 24" to 38" on the butt. Most are 90 to 120 feet tall. I had a couple that were 42" on the butt.
I fell the tree - cut to length - drag the splitter up to the tree. My transport trailer was hooked to the tractor. If I stacked neat & tight into the trailer - 2 1/2 to 3 full cords.
I would harvest 6 cords every spring. My firewood shed held 12 to 14 full cord. I burned pine that had been stored one full year.
I burned wood for the first twelve years we lived here. Then I went to wood pellets for the next ten years or so. Now it baseboard electric heat.
JMHO - a 12" to 16" tree is the ideal size for splitting. The gigantic pines I have are a real PITA. Hard to handle - don't split really easy. They had to be split out in the field. There is no way you can load a trailer with unsplit rounds - 14" long and 36" in diameter.
However - I truly miss the smell of burning pine - the smell of the pine firewood stacked in the house, waiting to be burned. I DO NOT miss the bugs, dirt & bark brought in with the firewood.
I fell the tree - cut to length - drag the splitter up to the tree. My transport trailer was hooked to the tractor. If I stacked neat & tight into the trailer - 2 1/2 to 3 full cords.
I would harvest 6 cords every spring. My firewood shed held 12 to 14 full cord. I burned pine that had been stored one full year.
I burned wood for the first twelve years we lived here. Then I went to wood pellets for the next ten years or so. Now it baseboard electric heat.
JMHO - a 12" to 16" tree is the ideal size for splitting. The gigantic pines I have are a real PITA. Hard to handle - don't split really easy. They had to be split out in the field. There is no way you can load a trailer with unsplit rounds - 14" long and 36" in diameter.
However - I truly miss the smell of burning pine - the smell of the pine firewood stacked in the house, waiting to be burned. I DO NOT miss the bugs, dirt & bark brought in with the firewood.
I've never had pine that was hard to split, but I don't split a lot of that. I do split a lot of oak, hickory, elm, ash, maple, walnut, etc. I have a 22 ton SpeeCo splitter and wouldn't get anything bigger if doing it again. I've only had one twisted elm that stalled out my 22 ton.
It refused to split any of the logs from that tree as the grain was damp and stringy, and relied on the wedge to shear through the logs. When I got to the logs over 16 or 20" it would run out of steam. We noodled those large logs in half very easily and then it split the halves like butter. That was a lesson learned for future large logs that are somewhat difficult, because even with noodling first, it was fast to get through them. Large logs are rare for me, so I like the swift cycle rate and smaller more efficient engine on the 22.
It refused to split any of the logs from that tree as the grain was damp and stringy, and relied on the wedge to shear through the logs. When I got to the logs over 16 or 20" it would run out of steam. We noodled those large logs in half very easily and then it split the halves like butter. That was a lesson learned for future large logs that are somewhat difficult, because even with noodling first, it was fast to get through them. Large logs are rare for me, so I like the swift cycle rate and smaller more efficient engine on the 22.
KennyG
Elite Member
I have a 3 point splitter and it's ideal for me. However, I think 90% of users are better off with a stand alone. I already have rear remotes, I have a quick hitch, so attaching the splitter is a 5 minute job. I do all my splitting at my wood shed, so I don't need the tractor for anything else while I'm splitting. I have a two way splitter so my limited hydraulic flow isn't really a problem. I recognize that most people are not in the same situation as I am.
Steve 3650
Member
I have no experience with electric. Splitting only pine should be relatively easy. The height of the wedge could make a difference with large rounds. There are also 4-way or 6-way wedges to make multiple splits with each stroke. The speed of each stroke might be something to compare. Fortunately for you pine is not particularly heavy or hard. I'm quite sure I overload my splitter often, but that's not a recommendation. Mine has a 9hp honda and is advertised as 28HO ton ram and 22 gpm pump.Once again it comes down to personal preferences, priorities, and how much you want to spend. I looked at my purchase as a long term investment. I expect it to work when I need it to, be relatively safe and easy on me body. I bought it in 2015 and so far it has not disappointed. I split alot of challenging wood. Oak,hickory, red elm, hackberry, locust and anything else straight rounds and crotches, I don't discriminate.
3Ts
Elite Member
The answer is Yes. Because all a log splitter is, is a double acting cylinder. You'd be able to hook that up to your tractor with a longer hose. However, there are a couple of ways that are possible depending on what you have access to on your tractor. It's possible to run from your tractor to the splitter valve, or bypass the splitter valve and go direct to the cylinder using a valve on your tractor. The problem would come in mixing the different hydraulic fluids. I'd purge the splitter cylinder and refill with what the tractor uses.
BTW - a replacement engine can be had from Harbor Freight for not a whole lot of money.
Industrial Toys
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2008
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- Kubota R510 Wheel Loader + Cab and backhoe, JD 6200 Open Station, Cushman 6150, 4x4, ten foot 56 hp Kubota diesel hydraulic wing mower, Steiner 430 Diesel Max, Kawasaki Diesel Mule, JD 4x2 Electric Gator
I absolutely can't stand those pissy azz engine driven splitters. BUT they are highly effective. Buy one on sale, buy one with a quality HONDA, use stabilizer or better yet non-ethanol fuel and be done with it.
3PH splitters are a major pain to move around, store and take on and off. And often SLOW, but you say that doesn't matter to you.
3PH splitters are a major pain to move around, store and take on and off. And often SLOW, but you say that doesn't matter to you.