confused

   / confused #11  
The other thing I find is worth a close look, is the ball and receiver insert.

I have noticed, that the rating of the ball, and the receiver insert, can be all over the place. It is really easy to grab one off the shelf, and then find that while you may have a 5, 7, maybe even 10klb frame mount receiver, the ball/receiver insert might be 3.5, or 5klb rated.

Kragens/Checker had a receiver insert that had enough drop to match up nicely with my utility trailer. I just grabbed it off the shelf, and a ball. Turns out, it is really rated low. The utility trailer only weighs 2500lbs loaded(GVWR). So, it is not a big deal. I do not tow my flatbed with the tractor using that ball/hitch.

Good advise on the draw bar and ball. Its often overlooked. My uncle broke one and I have bent them before.
 
   / confused
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Yes, I have a 6.0 engine. The truck is a crew cab regular bed.

The truck was a deal because it wasn't a diesel (add 6k onto the price), and didn't have some other gadgets I didn't care for (sliding rear window or sunroof/moonroof). My truck did not come with the built in brake controller, but my buddies did.

I talked to the GM guys about a WD system, and they recommended it. Didn't know if it made a bit of difference with it being GM or some third party manufacturer. I am sure that, like everything else, there are differences. I am not very knowledgeable about these. I just wanna tow my tractor a couple of places, as driving down the road is ok in nice weather but takes forever to get anywhere. I would also like to haul my pellets and topsoil by the trailer load instead of the bed load.

For those who need to know, I couldn't get 4.10 gears on the 2500's they had in a gasser (I am sure I could have ordered it in). my sticker on this truck was 40k new, and I got it for about 29. I managed to get two dealers to fight over selling me a truck (think two years ago when noone was buying trucks with gas about 4 a gallon). I can live without the diesel, and for the little towing I plan on doing, I figured the 3.73 would be fine. I got rid of my old 1/2 ton, because I knew it would never haul my stuff AND be legal. I have bad luck, I WOULD get caught. This truck, at the price and trade in I got, seemed to fit my needs. If only it got better gas mileage when empty.

I'm guessing with a WD system I should be legal. I am not sure and have looked around alot for this info.

Any help would be great.
 
   / confused #13  
The 2007.5 to 2010 hitch on the 3/4 ton is rated 13K WITH a weight distributing hitch.
About half that without the WD setup.


That is the hitch rating only, not what the truck can tow. In this case due to the 3.73 gears and gas engine its about 3,000# less than that.

Chris
 
   / confused #14  
OK, with all the info I have on your truck now, 2008 4x4 Crew Cab Reg Bed and the 6.0 gas engine with 3.73 gears, according to my towing book the max tow rating is 9,900#.

It should do all you need it to do just fine.

As for the WD hitch I provided a link to R&P Carriages. Call them and talk to Robbin or Paul and they can get you a good quality WD setup, brake controller, and the proper wiring harness plus instructions to install it yourself. They are good people. Do not forget to ask for what is called the Maxi-Fuse. It must be purchased and installed in the GM fuse box to allow your truck to charge the battery on your trailer for either dump function or just the electric brakes.

Chris
 
   / confused
  • Thread Starter
#15  
OK, with all the info I have on your truck now, 2008 4x4 Crew Cab Reg Bed and the 6.0 gas engine with 3.73 gears, according to my towing book the max tow rating is 9,900#.

It should do all you need it to do just fine.

As for the WD hitch I provided a link to R&P Carriages. Call them and talk to Robbin or Paul and they can get you a good quality WD setup, brake controller, and the proper wiring harness plus instructions to install it yourself. They are good people. Do not forget to ask for what is called the Maxi-Fuse. It must be purchased and installed in the GM fuse box to allow your truck to charge the battery on your trailer for either dump function or just the electric brakes.

Chris

Thanks a lot, it helped.
 
   / confused #16  
I recommend the Tekonsha P3 brake controller, it is easy to setup and use (if your truck does not have the integrated brake controller). If I recall, you will need to splice it in (take your time and solder the connections, then shrink wrap). It only takes about 30 minutes to install. You will probably need to connect the wires under the hood (one to stud for charging battery on trailer, one for powering the electric brakes and add the fuse if it needs it).

WDH (weight distribution hitch) are fairly easy to install and setup.

I got my controller and WDH from Trailer hitch, hitches and bike rack (800)298-8924, they have good prices, free shipping (when over dollar amount) and helpful folks if you have a question.

Article covering how to install brake controller (what you will need to do depends on what your truck has).
Brake Controller Installation on a 2008 GMC Sierra and Chevy Silverado | etrailer.com
 
   / confused #17  
I recommend the Tekonsha P3 brake controller, it is easy to setup and use (if your truck does not have the integrated brake controller). If I recall, you will need to splice it in (take your time and solder the connections, then shrink wrap). It only takes about 30 minutes to install. You will probably need to connect the wires under the hood (one to stud for charging battery on trailer, one for powering the electric brakes and add the fuse if it needs it).

WDH (weight distribution hitch) are fairly easy to install and setup.

I got my controller and WDH from Trailer hitch, hitches and bike rack (800)298-8924, they have good prices, free shipping (when over dollar amount) and helpful folks if you have a question.

Article covering how to install brake controller (what you will need to do depends on what your truck has).
Brake Controller Installation on a 2008 GMC Sierra and Chevy Silverado | etrailer.com

With the harness connector, you don't need to do any soldering or shrink wrapping...Just plug it in under the brake pedal. Doesn't get any easier than that.
 
   / confused #18  
With the harness connector, you don't need to do any soldering or shrink wrapping...Just plug it in under the brake pedal. Doesn't get any easier than that.

Not that easy on newer GM products. They took a step backwards on then new body styles and do not have a plug in adapter. It just has wires bunched up under the dash and then again under the hood, usually near the master cylinder. You must get a metric nut sometimes to make the connection in the power box(fuse box) to get the power to the controller and the rear 7 pin plug for battery charging. A sure step backwards for GM. Probably save $.07 per truck.

Take a look at my link below and the link posted above to get the skinny.

2007 GM Trailer Brake Controller install

Chris
 
Last edited:
   / confused #19  
gotta love it...

soundguy
 

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