Continuing Saga of the anti-mechanic and his Jubilee Part Deux

   / Continuing Saga of the anti-mechanic and his Jubilee Part Deux #1  

MarlinSlayer

Bronze Member
Joined
May 18, 2014
Messages
83
Location
Collierville, TN
Tractor
Ford Jubilee!
Okay, well I finally got to work on the tractor again.

In the process of replacing the water pump, I dropped a lockwasher into the pit of ****......you know the bowl like bracket that bolts on to the front of the red tiger engine flange which holds the pivot for the front axle and radiator which is filled with 30 years of dirt and oil and has an almost impenetrable 3/4 in layer of sludge (looking for parts diagram to no avail for name of such part).

Well, rather than going out and buying a new one, I'm cheap and I go diving into the pit of ****, scraping said sludge out and letting it fall into a specially engineered cardboard box strategically placed. I shouldn't have....

When I got it somewhat cleaned up, I found that my pit of **** is held on with THREE NUTS on Studs and NOT FOUR... the broken stud is at the upper right side of the flange as you look at the tractor from the front. The stud is in a tab on the flange and you can see the end of the stud from the back side of the flange. I'm assuming the worst and figure the PO (rocket scientist) broke off an "Easy Out" in the stud. I can't see that far in hole as of yet.

Now I'm of two minds, the **** rententive part of me says, since I'm replacing the radiator and redoing the thrust bearings in the front axle tubes, I ought to just go ahead, and pull the axle, replace the axle pivot bushing while I'm at it....and disassemble the front end and replace that stud.

The other part of me says, that for all I know it was fine for an unknown length of time like that and it can wait till next year or two when I strip the tractor down to paint. (remember, the original purpose of this work was not to restore, but get the tractor running well enough to get some cutting and box blading and food plotting on my deer property.) I have a long unfinished home renovation that has taken a back seat while tractor sits in my wife's garage space... If it was just going to cut on flat ground, I wouldn't worry too much...but I'll be cutting and blading some neglected spaces. Figure it had four studs for a reason. If I lived alone, I'd just go ahead and do it now, but I need to get this running and the thought of permanently breaking my tractor is less expensive than permanently breaking my marriage.

Two questions:

1. Pretty much okay to wait till next year? (Pros: get the tractor moving to satisfy my wife and get property ready for an awesome dear (as in yes dear) season. Reduce teardown as I'm planning on tearing it all apart in 12 months for repaint any way. Gives me twelve months to get up courage to do battle with left handed bits...lets me run the tractor and find out if there's another big problem which would cause me to unload this and buy new)

2. Does anyone know how they are installed? I'd hate to drill the thing out and retap it if it can be driven out the back. Is it threaded in like a head stud or installed like some wheel studs where they are inserted from the back side and essentially pressed in when the nut is tightened on the other side?

I'm hoping someone else has already done this, or its a common problem....C'mon Soundguy, you've probably done like four or five of these by now.

What say you?
 
   / Continuing Saga of the anti-mechanic and his Jubilee Part Deux #2  
MS...you crack me up. My vote is to get it going and go work it for a bit. Getting some stuff done will relieve some pressure ("see babe it was totally worth it")...and you"ll build a to do list on that beast anyway. When i cleaned out that area i found the original fuel cap...and it's likely replacement. ...cheers to running the "orphan" of the venerable ford tractor line...we gotta stick together.
 
   / Continuing Saga of the anti-mechanic and his Jubilee Part Deux #3  
Wow, someone else has the same issues I do. I'm going to get the tractor up and going just enough to do some work with it. Next thing I know, I have the kingpins and bearings apart, rear axles pulled out, all the hydraulic hoses off and cylinders pulled. What happened!!!????? On a side note, just leave it for later, you know that if you get into it right now, you're going to find another issue even deeper that you will ultimately have to fix because you just can't let it go. Let this one go.... for now.... it will be there waiting for you later on.
 
   / Continuing Saga of the anti-mechanic and his Jubilee Part Deux #4  
post a pic, since you aren't using part names it is a little hard to follow.

if there is a stud going thru the flange on the bolster into the block is broke, it may actually be easy to remove using a couple different techniques. just need to see what and where to make sure we are on the same page.
 
   / Continuing Saga of the anti-mechanic and his Jubilee Part Deux
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Well, got the tractor running, took off old radiator and when trying to fit new one on, I had a problem...not only did I not have clearance for the shroud, but I could see where the fan was hitting the front axle above the pin.
[URL=http://s998.photobucket.com/user/wtss1/media/IMG_0984_zpsc4ovhrgk.jpg.html][/URL]

Well I did a little sleuthing and found out that's because the Front axle support pin and bushing needed to be replaced.....so I jacked the tractor up and got the weight off the wheels and sure enough I gain some clearance.


I couldn't knock the pin out too easily so I guess I'll tackle the broken bolt as I had to take the "front axle support bracket" off (See Soundguy I'm learning).
[URL=http://s998.photobucket.com/user/wtss1/media/IMG_1001_zpspl3hskhy.jpg.html][/URL]

Here is the position of the broken stud on the front of the engine where the front axle support bolts on:
[URL=http://s998.photobucket.com/user/wtss1/media/IMG_1003_zpsmygof2mj.jpg.html][/URL]


I want to make sure this is the kind of pin that just bangs out instead of is threaded...I believe this is the non threaded pin, but wanted to make sure before I started banging.
 

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   / Continuing Saga of the anti-mechanic and his Jubilee Part Deux
  • Thread Starter
#6  
I have some questions for the peanut gallery. I took the spindles in and had the "local tractor guy " look at it. He immediately said the spindles were shot. Selling me new ones for $110 each. I know that is a little steep, but he is putting the bushings on. (I didn't know that they were split bushings, Even I can insert those I think)...He said they had to be pressed on.....didn't give me an exact quote... he's a cantakerous ole guy...then told me you can't use 134D in gearbox, differential and hydraulic pressure........said "the guys that say that don't know tractors...I've been doing this for 50 years. The tractor wasn't made for that oil.....that oil wasn't around back then.....all these guys put the lightweight oil in their engines and they "fake the oil pressure"....."you can't do that".....I didn't tell him I followed SoundGuys advice on the 5W-20.

Hopefully I'm not hurt to bad on the spindles and bushings....I need to be patient, use you guys for consulting advice......and find a machine shop that will do work for me if I need it. I just wanted to give the local guy some business.

About the front support pin. It is NOT the screw in type....right?!!!!!

While I wait for these answers...I'm getting out my new lefthanded bits and will try to extract that broken stud...
 
   / Continuing Saga of the anti-mechanic and his Jubilee Part Deux
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Well I answered my own question by beating that old pin out with a giant impact socket and a BFH....5 lb hammer.....bushing was worn thru and of course the axle has been oblonged. Cheaper to buy a new axle or have a machine shop ream it out and put an insert in there? I really don't know about this stuff. The keen eye of my wife noticed that the axle had been broken and welded back together...I wonder if someone had a loader on this at some time and tried to pick up something way to heavy or just crashed it into a battle tank. help!
 
   / Continuing Saga of the anti-mechanic and his Jubilee Part Deux #8  
It might be possible it had a loader on it and farmers did use and abuse them. Have your wife's keen eyes check out the axle carrier for cracks also the rear pin hole to see if that was also waddled out. You should be able to replace the axle with a used one that someone is parting out an NAA or later model tractor so long as the bushing isn't completely worn thru.

Kirk
 
   / Continuing Saga of the anti-mechanic and his Jubilee Part Deux #9  
The old coot that gave you bad advice on the oil... His info is out dated.

Utf is rated as a gear oil, hyd fluid, and manual trans oil.
 
   / Continuing Saga of the anti-mechanic and his Jubilee Part Deux
  • Thread Starter
#10  
The old coot that gave you bad advice on the oil... His info is out dated.

Utf is rated as a gear oil, hyd fluid, and manual trans oil.

Yeah....I know not to doubt the Soundguy's advice. I found an 8N axle on Ebay.....looks like from my research is the same front axle as NAA...says the bushing is usable...I just sent a question to see if the hole was still round and not a round bushing in a messed up hole. That should work right?

Marlin
 

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