Trying to troubleshoot crank no fire. Fuel is getting to the filter bowl. Fuel pump is working. Can’t seem to completely confirm that the fuel solenoid is working. If I take the solenoid off and have it connected to the electrical harness, and turn the key I don’t see the plunger moving at all. Does that mean it’s not getting power. The harness looks good. No chewed wires anywhere.
Crank no fire DK 45 SE 2011
- Thread starter No1umfan
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MichiganIron
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Couple things to consider while trouble sourcing the Fuel Solenoid:
If it is the older "2-Prong" harness plug to the solenoid, it ground through the solenoid body. You need to provide a ground to the solenoid body on the 2-Prong Plugs to test the solenoid.
The 3-prong Plugs ground through the center pin on the 3-prong plug.
So, to test for power in the harness plug, for 2-prong plugs, one side will have 12 volts for 1 second (Pull Coil), the other should have 12 volts constant (Hold Coil) both to ground. If you are testing the 3-prong harness plug, center prong to one side pin will have 12 volts for 1 second (Pull Coil), and 12 volts constant (Hold Coil) from the center pin to the other side.
In the 2 prong systems, the Timer Relay sends the 1 second power for the Pull Coil. In the 3-prong systems, the Display Unit sends the 1 second power to the Pull Coil.
Hope this helps
Yes that’s helpful. I guess I’ll put a multimeter to it when I get home tonight and report back. It’s the 3 prong type harness. If I don’t see any power is it possible that one of the relays is bad. I do remember one of those went bad soon after I got the tractor and had to be replaced while still under warranty. But that was 12 years ago.
MichiganIron
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Yes, if you do not have power to the Pull Coil side of the harness plug, the fuel shut-off relay would almost be next, after checking the fuse.
Best of luck
MichiganIron
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It is the Blue 5P Relay with the diode in the Harness.
MichiganIron
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If the engine stop fuse is good, you probably don't have a diode issue. Testing a diode depends on the equipment you have available. A quick check, but not always accurate, is to test for continuity in both directions. Some Multi Meters have the ability to test diodes based on their Junction Voltage rating.
Hope this helps.
Hopefully the final update on the problem. I got a six dollar replacement relay from Amazon by Bosch. Plugged it into the blue relay on the left. Nothing. No fire. Just for kicks decided to swap it out and put the new relay to replace the right sided blue relay. Boom!!!! everything works like a charm again.