3-Point Hitch CT2025 Hydraulic Tilt Side Link With Backhoe Subframe

[Snowlan]

Has anyone attempted a hydraulic side link with the backhoe subframe attached? I just put my 3PH back on for the first time after installing the backhoe subframe and discovered how tight the side link clearance to the subframe is. There is basically room for a few pieces of paper between the side links and the subframe when fully raised, there is a quick hitch attached to the 3PH in the picture.

I’ve been in touch with Brian at Fit Rite Hydraulics to see what custom option we can come up with, it seems what works on the Kioti and older Bobcat design won’t work here unless someone has already found a solution?

 

[tman1020]

Wow that is some tight clearance.

 

[Trippy1313]

Interesting... I did notice my side link being kind of tight too but didnt think about when I want to get the hydraulic link.... i have the same setup as you, with the backhoe and two rear remotes for that same reason, so I could eventually do top/tilt....

 

[Trippy1313]

Update us of there's a solution from Fit Rite. I'll look at mine this weekend and see if I notice any that may help. I know mine is tight but I don't think it was THAT tight...

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Only thing that I can think of would be to build similar to the pictured unit. Offset.

Have the cylinder perpendicular instead of at an angle.

Can you believe that a company would actually design a manual side link as pictured???

JCB actually has this design on some of their equipment.

 

[Snowlan]

Looking at it again, the normal tilt cylinder would work if the hitch was only raised to position 8. That would work for some, but I have a lot of dips and hollows to drive through and would miss the last 2 positions.

I do think Brian’s suggestion pictured would work. I think it would be stronger if the offset tabs were on the cylinder instead of the rod, but then the rod would be facing up and more susceptible to dirt. Maybe a little gusset to stiffen the offset tabs? I believe the top tabs could then be straight because the cylinder would be more in line with the hitch.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Looking at it again, the normal tilt cylinder would work if the hitch was only raised to position 8. That would work for some, but I have a lot of dips and hollows to drive through and would miss the last 2 positions.

I do think Brian’s suggestion pictured would work. I think it would be stronger if the offset tabs were on the cylinder instead of the rod, but then the rod would be facing up and more susceptible to dirt. Maybe a little gusset to stiffen the offset tabs? I believe the top tabs could then be straight because the cylinder would be more in line with the hitch.

If I used 1/2" or 5/8" plate, there is no way that the hitch would have the capability to bend the offset piece. The one in the picture is 3/4" and goes on a tractor with more than double the capabilities of the CK-CT tractors.

Of course, the next problem would be to get everything to fit and still have the OEM working range.

 

[Trippy1313]

Looking at it again, the normal tilt cylinder would work if the hitch was only raised to position 8. That would work for some, but I have a lot of dips and hollows to drive through and would miss the last 2 positions.

I'm the same. Mostly level land but my back woods and pasture do have a few dips that I find myself raising it all the way just in case.

 

[Trippy1313]

I think we had another thread discussion about this. Anyone figure something out with this, if the offset rams work or another solution?

MtnView, do you make these?

 

[Snowlan]

I think we had another thread discussion about this. Anyone figure something out with this, if the offset rams work or another solution?

MtnView, do you make these?

I purchased this cylinder:

WEN WT2004 Cross Tube Hydraulic Cylinder with 2 Bore and 4-inch Stroke, Black : Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement

WEN WT2004 Cross Tube Hydraulic Cylinder with 2 Bore and 4-inch Stroke, Black : Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement

www.amazon.ca

It was $100 CAD. I have a local welding shop that is going to modify it to the attached sketch (I’m leaving the method of attachment up to them, they are more than capable).

The extra overlap is required because a 4” cylinder was all I could find available, the plus side is the range will match the manual side link.

I haven’t had them do it yet because I’m giving them the fixed side link as a template and it is currently being used to hold up my snow blower. Will give it to them when I go back to sea the end of the month and it will be ready when I get back. With just have to visit a hydraulic shop to pick up the check valve and hoses.