Cub Cadet Z-Force 50 Hydrostatic Transmission

[JTKub]

Dang! OM, you had water in your hydro oil as well at one point! That is unreal. Not only did the shoddy 'vent' cap not keep anything out, it doesn't sound like they allowed the transaxles to breath as any gear/hydraulic system needs to. What a horrible way to ruin a high dollar hyrdostatic drive; with a lousy five cent pc of plastic.

Joel

 

[OldMachinist]

Here's a picture of the oil I drained out.

While I had the transmissions out this time I drilled and tapped them for drain plugs. I just plan on changing the oil every spring. Cheap insurance for a few quarts of oil.

 

[JTKub]

That's unreal OM. I'm glad to see you caught it early and got it out of there. Regular oil changes on those hydros looks like the only way to go.

Joel

 

[RICKYMARK]

K guys, time for an update, stopped by the shop last evening to take some photos and the owner asked what attorney I knew. When I asked him why, he said that it was all taken care of and that they were just waiting on a new transmission to arrive. Don't know who called who but someone shook bushes somewhere and apparently based on a message I finally got from CUB today, they are the ones replacing the Tran. They also sent me a message to call "Jake" (name changed) head of service at Cub. eventually he and I connected and had a pretty long conversation, basically he told me to put away the pressure washer and the garden hose, neither of which I've ever used (may have done a light rinse on the mower one time, can't remember) but then he did admit that RAIN of all things can cause these things to get water in the tran fluid, he took my serial number and it turns out my mower is about three years old but bought only two years ago so it was outside at the store nearly a full summer before I bought it, which now brings up another HUGE issue, if you buy a new one, MAKE SURE IT"S NOT OUTSIDE AT THE DEALER, you could be getting water in your transmission, he said if it starts to slow down at all after it heats up from running, suspect water in the tran. Mine has been shed kept since I bought it, so I'm now wondering ....

Now issue number 2. He also said, "don't get the spindles wet, that can damage them too", though I've never used it, one of my employees quickly pointed out, how in the world are you supposed to use that hyped up deck wash feature and keep the spindles dry?

 

[JTKub]

Wow! Good news. Thanks for the update. So it looks like the folks at Hydrogear stepped up to the plate here? That's good to know. FWIW, I know the deck spindles on my 2544 aren't really sealed to keep water out. I used the deck wash once when I first got it and abandoned it. I just use my leaf blower to and a wooden scraper to clean it now.

Joel

 

[OldMachinist]

The problem of tractors and mowers sitting at a dealer for a year or two before being sold has come up for discussion here before and it just dawned on me that even thou its hard to tell the year Cub manufactured the machine by its model and serial number the engine ID plate should have the year the engine was made and if it isn't plainly stated you can figure it out pretty easy. Kohler now states directly on the plate the build date and some other manufacturers you can dechipher the year by the serial number or date code. With todays just in time inventory practices you can be pretty sure that engines ordered for OEM use are made and delivered within a short period of time before the machines are asembled. With ecomomy the way it's been I'll bet there are a lot machines being sold new that have been sitting someplace in inventory so if your outthere looking at new equipment I verify the year made and if its been sitting work them down on the price.

 

[Goebz]

I have a Z force 50 and at the end of last year the right side started going slower than the left at the same lap bar position. I tried adjusting and tightening linkages and so forth to no avail. My manual says only the dealer can change the fluid but it cant be that difficult. I have searched for online manuals and only found $15 purchase options. Anybody know where one is posted? I have about the same year/model you are talking about here.

 

[OldMachinist]

Here's a link to the Cub Z-Force Service manual Cub_Cadet_Z-Force_Series_Zero_Turn_Service_Repair_Manual_2.pdf But it only shows how to remove and install the transmissions. Here's a link to the Hydro-Gear IZT service manual that tells how to change the oil. Hydro_Gear_IZT_service_manual.pdf
Before you try this you should know that you need to remove the transmission to service it and that the bolts that hold the bottom pan on are self tapping and are likely rusted in place solid. If you search this forum you'll find the post I made about the trouble I had with these bolts the first time I serviced mine. Any of the bolts that are in thru holes clean out the crud in the open hole and apply penetrating oil, let it stand overnight and then slowly try to work the bolts out. You may have to apply some heat from a propane torch to the aluminum housing to get the bolts to move. The service manual says to replace the bolts with standard ones when you re-assemble.
The filter screen will just pry off and you can wash in out in clean solvent. Refill with quality 20w50 oil thru the vent hole to the level specified. After re-installing the transmission do the purging procedure in the manual.

 

[Goebz]

THIS MAY BE OVER MY HEAD. I can change oil in cars and bikes but complex procedures can befuddle me. I may be better off paying the $50 and hour to have them change out the fluids and adjust the belts.

The thing I cant stand is taking it to a "reputable" place and they have some snot nosed teenager in the back wrenching on it for minimum wage.

 

[Pauli Gonzali]

OldMachinist...where did you tap and dye on the transmission??
Your posting of the trans removal was actually really fun! Just wondering the best spot
to drill a hole and if you had any tips/recommendations for doing so.