Dead 1130

[Mike1955]

That steel rusts and connections deteriorate. I’ve got an old dozer I had to jumper a ground to the headlights. You did good

 

[CliffordK]

It sounds like you're getting close.

A jumper cable may not have enough juice to start the tractor.

You can buy aftermarket battery cables at most auto parts stores. Or, if you have a good frame ground, then work on the battery terminal.

 

[CliffordK]

That steel rusts and connections deteriorate. I’ve got an old dozer I had to jumper a ground to the headlights. You did good

Somehow usually once a bolt is connected to a clean spot on the frame, it will keep the connection quite a while. I was having taillight grounding issues on my old Haulin trailer and welded the light brackets to the frame which helped. Of course now everything is going to LED with separate hot/ground wires.

Perhaps clean the frame, add some dielectric grease and connect your wire. Then clean and paint over the top. Or even dab some caulking over the top.

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Edit:
See notes below. Dielectric Grease is marketed to protect wire connections and prevent corrosion, but isn't actually conductive. There are conductive greases available. Or... ???

 

[Mike1955]

Mr Clifford. I can imagine a bad connection occurring, then making contact thru a ball bearing. You know that would be bad.

 

[rScotty]

Update, starter was tested and is good. i could not get a ground for my test light on the engine or frame. I cleaned the frame and negative cable. Test light still didn't work. I used a jumper cable connected to the negative battery post as a ground wire for my test light. Starter has voltage to terminals. Starter solenoid has constant voltage. When I moved to right side of tractor to check ignition switch, I laid the test light on the deck and the deck is hot? Ignition switch shows to be operating correctly. Fuse box has power on both side of fuses.

Take the old battery out of the circuit entirely.Then use a known good battery to jump directly to the starter motor. Plus to the terminal on the starter motor, and neg to the body of the starter motor. That bypasses everything and if the starter is good it will turn. Be ready for something to happen.

 

[CliffordK]

Mr Clifford. I can imagine a bad connection occurring, then making contact thru a ball bearing. You know that would be bad.

Oh, I see, the dielectric grease is an insulator, but helps protect from corrosion, so still good stuff.

There are, however, a few brands actually marketed as conductive grease.

Perhaps one should consider other protective coatings for electrical wires to steel. A small dab of brazing?

 

[CD Long]

Take the old battery out of the circuit entirely.Then use a known good battery to jump directly to the starter motor. Plus to the terminal on the starter motor, and neg to the body of the starter motor. That bypasses everything and if the starter is good it will turn. Be ready for something to happen.

Starter was tested and is good. Battery is good. I wire brushed the starter face & bellhousing where starter mounts. I attached the wire to the solenoid, no power to frame. I attached the positive cable to the top post of starter. starter, no power to the frame. I attached the first of 2 red wires on the top starter terminal, no power to frame, fuel pump is operating, power across fuse box, power to ignition switch. When i attempted to put the second red wire with the positive cable & first red wire, the starter is trying to engage. I left the 2nd red wire off the post & tried to start with the ignition switch. I heard several clicks and had no power. I disconnected the battery, waited several minutes, reconnected the battery & had power again. When I tried the second time I had the same issue, but it sounded like the clicking was near the seat. I lifted the seat looking for a safety switch but didn't see any. I'll have to remove the seat. Ingition switch center post says batt, but the black wire to the left is the hot wire. Shouldn't the battery post be the hot wire? i have a video of touching the 2nd red wire to the top post but can't figure out how to put it in the attachments.

 

[Williy]

CDLong maybe you can find a free service manual here:

free servivce manual 1993 Case 2wd 1100 series tractor - Google Search

willy

 

[Mike1955]

Starter was tested and is good. Battery is good. I wire brushed the starter face & bellhousing where starter mounts. I attached the wire to the solenoid, no power to frame. I attached the positive cable to the top post of starter. starter, no power to the frame. I attached the first of 2 red wires on the top starter terminal, no power to frame, fuel pump is operating, power across fuse box, power to ignition switch. When i attempted to put the second red wire with the positive cable & first red wire, the starter is trying to engage. I left the 2nd red wire off the post & tried to start with the ignition switch. I heard several clicks and had no power. I disconnected the battery, waited several minutes, reconnected the battery & had power again. When I tried the second time I had the same issue, but it sounded like the clicking was near the seat. I lifted the seat looking for a safety switch but didn't see any. I'll have to remove the seat. Ingition switch center post says batt, but the black wire to the left is the hot wire. Shouldn't the battery post be the hot wire? i have a video of touching the 2nd red wire to the top post but can't figure out how to put it in the attachments.

CD you have diligently did your checks and I feel like your are so close to nailing this down. Now I must suggest that you back off from it, do something else so you can’t come back with a fresh way of thinking. Honestly I think you passed by the problem and didn’t see it. There can only be one of two things, loosing a ground or loosing a hot wire. You are going to find it and it will be so obvious once you do. Good Luck

 

[CD Long]

i have the manual.