Deere 2320 Hydraulics Have Gotten Weaker... any suggestions?

[The Suburban Farmer]

I've just noticed that this spring my 2013 Deere 2320's hydraulics seem weak. I noticed it first when I was moving some dirt, but just thought maybe the dirt was wet and heavier than it was last fall, so I ignored it. But today I went to move a pallet with my pallet forks that I put in the garage last fall, and the tractor wouldn't lift it. Not only that, it wouldn't lift the rear tires off the ground either, which it usually does if I don't have a counter weight.

I'm a die-hard do-it-yourself guy and just rebuilt a car engine, but this is my first experience having to diagnose and fix a problem with the hydraulics on a tractor -- actually first time trying to fix ANYTHING on my tractor... it's been fantastic up until now.

I looked at this thread on adjusting the Pressure relief valve on a different tractor (as well as many others) but still not sure if I know what to do... I didn't see anything for the Deere 2320 tractor.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/153151-front-end-loader-pressure-check.html

I would hate to call the dealer -- that's a $200 pick-up charge on top of any labor and parts. A couple of questions:

1) Any idea what could cause this other than the relief valve? I haven't adjusted anything since last fall, and there are no leaks in the lines and the hydraulic fluid is full.
2) Where exactly IS the relief valve on a 2320 and how should I tinker with it (assuming that I even should.)
3) Any clue what the optimal pressure should be if I plug my pressure gauge into the hydraulic lines?

Sorry if this is a repetitive post.

 

[devildog1]

First thing to do is un-couple your hydro lines, did you have loader off with some other attachment? Hydro couplers may not be seated correctly. Or it could be a bad coupler, try switching pivot hydro lines with lift lines to trouble shoot if coupler is bad.
DevilDog

 

[J_J]

John Deere 2320

Hydraulics:
Type: open center
Capacity: 2.6 gal [9.8 L]
Pressure: 2421 psi [166.9 bar]
Valves: 2
Pump flow: 3.4 gpm [12.9 lpm]
Total flow: 5.6 gpm [21.2 lpm]
Steering flow: 2.2 gpm [8.3 lpm]

You relief valve is probably on the loader valve, and would be set the same as the 3pt which is 2421 psi.

I would install a hyd pressure gauge in a tee in the IN port of the FEL valve, and max out the cyl and read the pressure.

Show picture of your FEL valve.

 

[wdchyd]

Have you tractor hydraulic system tested with a flow/load meter.......start at the source first and know if the pump is good or bad......pressure gauge will only tell half of the story

 

[KennyG]

If it's a 2013, is it still on warranty? If I remember correctly, my 2010 had a three year warranty.

 

[kennyd]

Start simple...test the pressure there is a video posted on our website showing how to do it. When was the hydro fluid last changed, and the screen cleaned? Is the fluid clean and clear and not milky or foamy looking?

 

[The Suburban Farmer]

Thanks everyone. Tried everything mentioned except for wdchyd's suggestion of using a gauge and flow meter (will have to get a quick-coupler for my pressure gauge to do that, so that probably won't happen until the weekend unfortunately.) The hydro fluid looks fine, and the filter screen is fine as well.

KennyG -- that's a good question... I thought it was only 2 years on hydraulics, but I will go back and check.

kennyd -- thanks for directing me to the video... very helpful.

devildog1 -- clever idea about switching ports... but it didn't help. Same results regardless of how I re-jiggered the lines in the port.

J.J. - here are some pics.

This is where the loader lines plug into the tractor hydraulics via the quick:



Then, the quick connect lines run back to this manifold behind the right rear tire:

 

[wdchyd]

Don't forget to check the oil level in the reservoir

 

[J_J]

Thanks everyone. Tried everything mentioned except for wdchyd's suggestion of using a gauge and flow meter (will have to get a quick-coupler for my pressure gauge to do that, so that probably won't happen until the weekend unfortunately.) The hydro fluid looks fine, and the filter screen is fine as well.

KennyG -- that's a good question... I thought it was only 2 years on hydraulics, but I will go back and check.

kennyd -- thanks for directing me to the video... very helpful.

devildog1 -- clever idea about switching ports... but it didn't help. Same results regardless of how I re-jiggered the lines in the port.

J.J. - here are some pics.

This is where the loader lines plug into the tractor hydraulics via the quick:

View attachment 423802 View attachment 423803

Then, the quick connect lines run back to this manifold behind the right rear tire:
View attachment 423804

A flow meter is not that easy to obtain and expensive.

If you can borrow a flow meter, then fine. You will also need a relief valve and a needle valve to do the flow and pressure test.

You can check the flow by placing a cyl retract hose,[ hose going to the cyl rod end ] in a bucket and time the flow.

You are supposed to have 3.4 GPM, so time the flow in a 5 gal bucket and see if the pump is pumping max flow at max engine rpm.

In 10 sec, your bucket should contain about .56 gal of fluid.

---20 sec----------------------------------------1.13 gal

Refresh your tank level.

Also make sure the 3pt lever is in neutral, not up.

If the lever is up, it could cause back pressure and affect the loader.