Snow Deere 3520 & Rear Blade

   / Deere 3520 & Rear Blade
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Thanks for the replies to my original post!!

Here's what I ended up doing... I put pipe on both my FEL and my rear blade. The front piece is 1.5 ABS. On the rear blade it痴 2 ABS. I got both pieces at Menards for about $7 each. I cut a slit in them using my circular saw and then beat them on to the blade edges using a rubber hammer. On the rear blade I let the pipe overhang about 1.5 inches from each end and put a シ-20 3.5 bolt through it using a nylon self-locking nut. The purpose of this was to keep the pipe from sliding off the end of the blade.

I did all this based on this thread

It's long, but informative read. The general consensus was to use ABS instead of PVC. ABS is almost indestructible whereas PVC can shatter in cold weather. If you can find schedule 80 use it, but most likely you're going to only find schedule 40. (You may know this, but I read it in the thread the "schedule" refers to the wall thickness of the pipe; 80 is thicker than 40.) One guy talked about using steel on his and was going to have a "snow edge" and a "regular edge" to swap back and forth on his blade.

One interesting idea that someone came up with was to use "tractor belting" or "combine belting" bolted onto the front of the cutting edge on the rear blade. They said that this acted like a squeegee on the blade and did a great job. You can get this stuff at Tractor Supply.

How did it work? Well, the pipe on the front loader worked great! I did have to beat it back on again a time or two if I back-dragged with the bucket. But it did a great job on my concrete apron although I came to the conclusion that it's almost easier to just use my little snow blower for light snows - 4" - like we got the other day. I have to get my blower out anyway to do my decks and sidewalk. There is some wear on the pipe, but not too much, on the edge that was making contact with the concrete but I may just flip it over for the next time I need it.

On the rear not so great but I still think this is a good way to go. As you'll read in the thread, the larger the diameter of the pipe is, the less that it will dig in. So, I'd go with a 3 instead of 2 pipe. Also, I just laid about 3" of gravel on the driveway about two weeks ago so it's not packed enough. I think that with a more packed driveway, a 3 pipe (or maybe even 4?) would do fine. The other thing I would do is drill some other holes in the pipe in order to run some sort of cable or turnbuckle to secure it to the blade a bit better. I noticed as I dropped my blade on to the driveway that the pipe wanted to twist a bit. So I think that if I was dragging it actually on the ground (which I didn't do) that there might be a tendency to pull it off. I didn't actually try dragging the rear across my driveway so I can't swear to this. But I also think that for me, even bothering to clear my gravel portion of the driveway with less than 6" or so inches is a waste of time. My wife and I both have 4WD so we've never had too much of a problem getting out. My concrete apron is a priority though as we have a detached garage and have to walk across it to get to the house.

Again, many thanks to those of you that put in your $.02! I appreciate your advice!
2013-12-05 15.51.01.jpg2013-12-05 15.51.15.jpg
 
   / Deere 3520 & Rear Blade #12  
Late reply to Mark...

Got my chains from Canadian Chains in Skowhegan...Canadian Chains [Home] Drove to Skowhegan to pick them up..to avoid shipping ....since they are rather hefty...the cost was also a hefty 600 dollars....
 
   / Deere 3520 & Rear Blade #13  
mark02tj,

Nice setup on your equipment! I too use a rear blade for snow removal on my 500' gravel driveway and I have never found a satisfactory way to avoid digging up gravel. I may try this on my old beat up grader blade. Although I love my 2305, I am personally envious of your 3520 so congrats indeed.

SI2305

200cx FEL, LX-4, 60"Landpride RFM, Grader Blade, Box Blade, subsoiler, new seat with armrests
 
   / Deere 3520 & Rear Blade
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Bennatti - Better late than never!! :) THANKS for the reply and the link. You're right; the cost is pretty hefty! If I was in an area that consistently got more snow then I would probably take a serious look at investing in some. But we rarely get snowfalls around here that exceed 6"-8". Most of our snowfalls are usually 3 or 4 inches and then melt within a week.

SI2305 - Thanks for the kind words! The first Deere that I took a serious look at was a used 2305 at the local dealer. Nice, clean machine (FEL & MMM) with about 350 hours on it. They are nice tractors that have a lot of capability. I almost bought that machine but then decided that I needed something bigger to handle what is going to be the primary job of 3520 - pulling honeysuckle. In my part of Ohio we are cursed with this invasive shrub and my woods are infested with them. So I wanted something that would handle pulling them out without tearing up the tractor. The 3520 is a little bit of overkill for mowing my yard though. Even though we sit on 5 acres, I mow well less than an acre. But, mowing is a lot more fun on the 3520 than on my little Ariens 8hp rear engine rider! Yup - boys and their toys!
 
   / Deere 3520 & Rear Blade #15  
Yeah it actually pulled up chunks out of the top of the concrete where the ice had bonded to it. It looks like I have quarter sized little puts over a 10 foot area or so.

I think the sharp cutting edge probably scraped the top of the concrete,

Sent from my GT-P3113 using TractorByNet
 
   / Deere 3520 & Rear Blade #16  
Yeah it actually pulled up chunks out of the top of the concrete where the ice had bonded to it. It looks like I have quarter sized little puts over a 10 foot area or so.

The guy that pored and finished your concrete gets all the blame, he screwed up, not you. When ice bonds to concrete it stays there until it melts, a scraper of any kind will do no damage.
 
   / Deere 3520 & Rear Blade #17  
Yeah it actually pulled up chunks out of the top of the concrete where the ice had bonded to it. It looks like I have quarter sized little puts over a 10 foot area or so.

That is called spalling and is a direct result of improper finishing. The finisher knows how to make it look pretty, but not how to do it right and make it look pretty.
 
   / Deere 3520 & Rear Blade #18  
I too believe that your loader didn't have anything to do with the concrete damage. Although I am no concrete finishing expert by any means I have poured more than a few truckloads.

Spalling can be caused by pouring the concrete too dry (or the concrete setting up before starting to work it) and then spraying water on top to add "butter" to be able to smooth it out. This basically makes the top 1/4" or so weaker than the underlying concrete and during freeze thaw cycles this top layer expands and contracts differently than the bottom.

Salt can also cause spalling. If you leave your car parked on the concrete and the road salt melts off your car and onto the concrete it can work its way in and start popping up little plugs. Also the gravel or stone that is used in the mixture can sometimes create the spalling. Some rock can expand differently than the surrounding concrete and if it is near the top it can pop up.

I know two things about concrete. It will harden and it will crack.
 
   / Deere 3520 & Rear Blade #19  
Thanks guys, appreciate the info. I just assumed it was my fault. I am not even sure who did the concrete work as it was a sub of the GC that built the house for us (who subsequently went under right at the end, so that was a whole other disaster). Good to know that is one thing though that I didn't destroy, and can blame on someone else. :thumbsup:
 
 
Top