Disc Harrow Alterations

[deere5105]

Don't intend to wear this thread out, but got just a couple questions left. After making a quick measurement tonight, it appears the 22" blades are going to be VERY close if they clear in places. Questions are:
1) Are there any significant advantages of the 22" blades over 20" blades?

2) Any significant advantages between India or Brazil made blades questioned in above post?

3) Measuring distance between between rear gang inside blades tonight resulted in a 4" separation. Makes me consider moving back to 9' wide to get the separation back to 12" to 16". Any suggestions/ideas on that? Noticed this weekend grass wanted to gather in that tight space and if cutting in heavy grass could clog?

Thanks again for all the replies and advice.

 

[jenkinsph]

You can leave them where they are if you want but that isn't the proper way to set them. The forward set will throw the dirt outwards at speed and the rear set should be moved outwards enough to throw this dirt back in place no more and no less. The tossing of the dirt outwards and then back inwards is intended to help level out the soil.

To decide whether to go with the 20 or 22 inch blades, I think you need to be there to determine which ones will fit the best. The 22" blades can cut deeper than the 20" blades by an inch. I would look at the spool flanges and compare their diameter with other disks to make sure the blades are supported enough.

Some of the farmers who are more knowledgeable about the blades should be able to help you decide which blades are the better choice as far as country of origin.

 

[rambler]

I don't see how the disk works properly with the rear gangs moved in like that.

The front gangs throw the dirt out wide.

The rear gangs need to be out there far enough to gather this dirt back up and throw it in to the middle again.

As you have it set up with the narrow spaced rear gangs, you will be leaving 3 ridges with every pass - one on each side of the disk where the dirt is thrown out but no longer gathered in. And one down the middle, where the rear gangs are now overlapping a ridge of dirt throwing it too close to each other.

Dirt might _look_ level while it is fresh & fluffy, but once the rain settles it down, you've got to have bad ridging with that setup!


As to size, bigger is better for blades, tho they will throw dirt farther, and will break on rocks a bit more easily. I think I would choose the less than most expensive thickness as you mentioned. Myself, I prbably would be happy with the blades down to 19 or 18 inches before changing, 20 inch is just broken in really, but sounds like you really want to change them, so might as well go for it. Do your blade cleaners allow 22 inch blades?

You probably won't notice much difference in the blades - basically as the metal gets harder it wears longer, but is more likely to shatter on rocks. So, you pick your poison, like anything a coin flip, what's gonna get you first?

As to tightening the gang, you need _all_ the dirt out between the spools and blades. All of it, shiney clean..... You actually streatch the axle when you tighten it up, the blades are held in tension.

I really have no idea how you are getting level ground from narrowing up the rear gang, that shouldn't be working out well at all. There have to be ridges forming, laws of physics.....

--->Paul

 

[deere5105]

I don't see how the disk works properly with the rear gangs moved in like that.

The front gangs throw the dirt out wide.

The rear gangs need to be out there far enough to gather this dirt back up and throw it in to the middle again.

As you have it set up with the narrow spaced rear gangs, you will be leaving 3 ridges with every pass - one on each side of the disk where the dirt is thrown out but no longer gathered in. And one down the middle, where the rear gangs are now overlapping a ridge of dirt throwing it too close to each other.

Dirt might _look_ level while it is fresh & fluffy, but once the rain settles it down, you've got to have bad ridging with that setup!

As to size, bigger is better for blades, tho they will throw dirt farther, and will break on rocks a bit more easily. I think I would choose the less than most expensive thickness as you mentioned. Myself, I prbably would be happy with the blades down to 19 or 18 inches before changing, 20 inch is just broken in really, but sounds like you really want to change them, so might as well go for it. Do your blade cleaners allow 22 inch blades?

You probably won't notice much difference in the blades - basically as the metal gets harder it wears longer, but is more likely to shatter on rocks. So, you pick your poison, like anything a coin flip, what's gonna get you first?

As to tightening the gang, you need _all_ the dirt out between the spools and blades. All of it, shiney clean..... You actually streatch the axle when you tighten it up, the blades are held in tension.

I really have no idea how you are getting level ground from narrowing up the rear gang, that shouldn't be working out well at all. There have to be ridges forming, laws of physics.....

--->Paul

I will check again since it has recently rained. After moving it in it looks too close to me too, but I have not noticed any issues with the finished results. I was primarily trying to make it narrower to make transport and storage easier.

I went by this afternoon to measure new 20" and 22" blades to see how close they measured. They were spot on. I would prefer to use the 22", but am very concerned they may have little clearance, if they will fit at all in some places. Makes me think the 20" is the safest route.

This disc does not have blade scrapers.

 

[deere5105]

I have been back after several rains and the area turned under with the rear gangs set close together still remains level. Even with them set in they still extend beyond what the front gangs throw out. Maybe that is why the end result is what it is. Regardless, I am going to move them back out during my rebuild. Just doesn't look right.

I started yesterday afternoon breaking the unit down. I have the frame and the gangs separated. My plan is check all parts to see what needs replacing/repairing, repaint and reassemble.

Few questions: 1) Any suggestions on painting/prep? Planned to use cup brush on angle grinder to prep surface. 2) Better experiences using brush on paint versus spray painting? 3) Number of coats primer and/or paint for durability? 4) Torn between painting JD green or different color. Old faded paint appears to have been some shade of red?

Getting chance to break in my new impact on this project and plan to replace all the hardware while apart. Some of this appears to have never been apart. Some required 3/4" drive tools with cheater pipe. Have about decided to stay with 20" blades due to clearance concerns. Any thoughts, ideas or suggestions of what has worked and didn't work are greatly appreciated.

 

[jenkinsph]

Seems like you have it figured out well enough, cleaning up the parts as best you can. I spray paint and brush just depends on what it is and how much trouble I want to go to.

I would recommend using something like Locktite Extend rust preventative treatment before putting on primer. I buy this from a Sherwin Williams paint store and brush it on. A gallon container should be about right for your project. For paint over this I would use a good polyurethane industrial primer and top coat in your color choice. The Deere brand paint is good too if you go that route. I wouldn't go with expensive auto paint as using a disk will wear the paint off in places regardless of what you do so that would be money wasted imo.


Painting and refinishing is like alot of things you can get lost in it but the preparations you make before the top color coat will determine the final results. With a project such as yours I would use a good cup brush and grinder wheel to clean everything up or have it all sandblasted. Next I would coat everything with the Extend product except the threads. Spray on primer let dry and sand smooth, reapply primer if needed for a second coat. Sand lightly between all coats then apply the top color coat with one light coat allowing it to get tacky before recoating with a heavier coat.

I consider myself an amateur painter not a professional so some others might have a better way to handle this and will chip in.

 

[deere5105]

Made it by Lowe's this evening and picked up several spray cans of the Locktite Extend rust treatment. I have a few pieces I am looking to have made and am not quite ready to begin the paint process. I did manage to get the main frame sanded down with wire cup on angle grinder. Don't seem to be getting a lot of comments on the paint process. I believe spraying is going to be easier to apply than brushing. The salesman at Lowe's recommended going somewhere else to look for more suitable primer and paint versus what they stock. He did speak highly of the rust treatment though. Anyone have any comparison of spraying versus brushing the paint on implements?

 

[jenkinsph]

If you have spray equipment I would go that route, but to paint a disc I wouldn't buy the equipment. I would prefer a good brush to using spray cans because of cost..

I did use spray cans once when I was a kid to paint a large Case field tractor, took several cases too.

 

[Mace Canute]

A good way to get a nice finish on a brushed on paint job is to use a spray bomb for the very last coat. Since there are more solvents in the spray bomb than in paint from the pail, this method allows the brushed on paint to flow out much smoother than if left as just brushed on. Much cheaper to do it this way than with all spray bombs and I believe you get a much better paint job using paint from a pail. Best of both worlds, eh?

 

[deere5105]

Placed order today for the 4" gang hangers. Once they arrive I plan to go ahead and prep them and the frame and get paint on that much. Still undecided on breaking down all of the blades and replacing them.

I do not have the tools for spraying paint. If I sprayed it would be from the rattle can. Seems like brushing would give a better coat, but at the same time spraying would put paint into those hard to get to locations.

Noticed that TSC has a Valspar line of paint stated to be for Tractor and Implement. They even have one that is listed as "Restoration" that is a little higher priced. They also have this line for primer. Any experience with this product? If priced less than JD brand paint any reason not to give it a try? Do not see any reason for a "Restoration" quaility finish on this particular item