discing

   / discing #31  
Warhammer- Sounds quite similar... very hard to mow without getting severe pains... Thanks for the pictures, still looks pretty flat overall. I have some pretty unique hills in the front and back yard, which we'll keep, though smoothing the transitions would be great.. The pictures are helpful...

peterssj4034- Thanks for the info, I would imagine we have similar soil conditions, I'm in the Mansfield area here. What did you pull the discs and the plow with? holding onto those? or selling the implements. ;) I am hoping to find something compact enough the BX2660 can handle, yet large enough I don't have to spend 2 years on it. ;) I will at least look for a good set of discs, I already have a landscape rake, which I would think would help smooth out the dirt/clumps when all said and done.

I am concerned about doing the work, and not getting it seeded right away, thinking water will erode the dirt and make trenches in it again (that is what happened as the house was being built) Lots of stones, large and small, the rake should help remove those, as long as I can get enough weight on the discs to do some 'digging'... I plan to tackle a couple acres as a time, rather than try to do all 5 at once, as I don't have much free time to play with the land & tractor right now.
 
   / discing #32  
Warhammer,
Looking at the pics posted on page 3 it appears you are getting it under control. For rough areas I run my landplane/grader over it after tilling to smooth and flatten out the tough spots. I have a lot of areas that are very rough to deal with and this method is working really well for me.

One of the things I need is a good cultipacker to firm everything up, yours looks good.
 
   / discing #33  
peterssj4034- Thanks for the info, I would imagine we have similar soil conditions, I'm in the Mansfield area here. What did you pull the discs and the plow with? holding onto those? or selling the implements. ;) I am hoping to find something compact enough the BX2660 can handle, yet large enough I don't have to spend 2 years on it. ;) I will at least look for a good set of discs, I already have a landscape rake, which I would think would help smooth out the dirt/clumps when all said and done.

I am concerned about doing the work, and not getting it seeded right away, thinking water will erode the dirt and make trenches in it again (that is what happened as the house was being built) Lots of stones, large and small, the rake should help remove those, as long as I can get enough weight on the discs to do some 'digging'... I plan to tackle a couple acres as a time, rather than try to do all 5 at once, as I don't have much free time to play with the land & tractor right now.

I used a New Holland TZ24DA to pull everything. It's a 24hp Hydro, 4 wheel drive. I initially tried to run the plow thought the clay soil, but the fact that it had not been touched in roughly 50 years, it was pretty compacted and tough for that little tractor to pull the plow through. I used a middlebuster to loosen the soil, and then I had good success with the plow.

Funny you should mention about the implements...I'm actually "upgrading" this week to a New Holland T2320 (should be delivered Friday), which is 45 HP, with an 84" Bush Hog rear finish mower, FEL, etc. I currently have a 60" MMM. Like everyone else replying to this thread, I get bounced around quite a bit on the areas I haven't smoothed yet, and I would like a little more hp to help with future projects, such as the one we are talking about on this thread, so I am hanging on to the implements as they will be needed in the near future.

I have a landscape rake that I used for a variety of projects (and I have used it for smoothing, works really well), but for this project, I used a homemade drag that is essentially a rectangle made of 4 pieces of I-beam iron. It's quite heavy, but the NH pulled it with no trouble (I am going to miss the little tractor). I disced the ever living heck out of it before using the drag, which seemed to help with the large clumps. I used a small boxblade for the final grading.

As far as the rain making ruts, I rented a straw-blower (~$90 a day), which covered the areas I had worked in minutes, not hours. It was quite a wonderful piece of equipment, and very efficient in its use of the material as well. I have attached a few pictures of the last time I used the straw blower, and you can see the large area it covered. If you can't seed right away, it's easy enough to run over the area just before seeding, once you have the ground worked to your satisfaction, with the disc or landscape rake to loosen/smooth the soil.

I live just south of Navarre, not too far from you, about an hour or so.
 

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   / discing
  • Thread Starter
#34  
Got lucky on the cultipacker. I had called around on my recent disc purchase and the local Kubota dealer where I bought that sat next to a used farm implement dealer with the cultipacker. I paid $850 for it and it was only 10 miles down the road from the farm.
At 10 feet wide it covers ground pretty quickly and is cheaper than getting a new 6 foor wide unit shipped in. I was happy it was drawbar as it really weighs quite a bit and I would not look forward to lifting it with the 3 point much. Used culitpackers in Central Texas seem pretty nonexistant from looking at Craigslist.
Since its drawbar attached I am hoping to be able to connect my broadcast spreader and cultipacker to seed and pack in one throw. I have made so many passes over this 9 acres between weed spraying, mowing, raking, subsoiling, discing and cultipacking in the last couple of months that I just want to get it finished and move on to something else.


Warhammer,
Looking at the pics posted on page 3 it appears you are getting it under control. For rough areas I run my landplane/grader over it after tilling to smooth and flatten out the tough spots. I have a lot of areas that are very rough to deal with and this method is working really well for me.

One of the things I need is a good cultipacker to firm everything up, yours looks good.
 
   / discing #35  
I originally casted concrete weights for my disc. But even with rebar they ended up breaking slowly. So I cut a 50 gallon drum in half and bolted both halves to the disc. I then filled with old brake rotors/drums (BIL is a mechanic so I get these free) and even gravel. I have drain holes so they do not collect water and rust out as easily. I could then vary the weight until I hit the right ballance. I will try to post a link to the old project.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/welding/37217-3-point-disc-first-welding.html

or you can search under my name and "disc" to see the pic.
It looks like you are getting good results so far.
peter
 
   / discing #36  
WARHAMMER: I love your cultipacker and as a matter of fact I have one just like it. I bought mine about 15 years ago at a farm auction. Nobody back then wanted them and when the bidding was opened I bid $10 yes that right $10 and I was the only bidder.

Getting that thing on and off my truck was a real trip.
 
   / discing
  • Thread Starter
#37  
Wow that's a great deal!
I unloaded alone and it was a pretty marginal deal. I took a couple of nylon tie downs and after attaching to the FEL toothbar and cultipacker lifted it up off the trailer about 2-3 inches. The FEL was about straight up and down and the back of the tractor was VERY light. I drove the truck out from under the packer and then let it down very slowly. Even that made the tractor move around a bit. I was really happy to have the thing on the ground without killing myself, rolling the tractor over or munching the trailer.
Those old cultipackers weigh a bunch.

WARHAMMER: I love your cultipacker and as a matter of fact I have one just like it. I bought mine about 15 years ago at a farm auction. Nobody back then wanted them and when the bidding was opened I bid $10 yes that right $10 and I was the only bidder.

Getting that thing on and off my truck was a real trip.
 
 
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