Diverter valve

   / Diverter valve #11  
Too big? Really? I would have thought that the capacity was a max rating and not necessarily what you are expected to operate it at. I guess I always thought that extra capacity was a good thing. Secondly, as far as weight goes, I've been looking at that and it seems that the weight difference isn't all that much: 9lbs for the lightest electric valve, vs 10lbs for the lighter/smaller manual valve with handle. As far as physical size is concerned, nothing in the specifications strike me as fantastic. I guess I like to subscribe to the KISS philosophy (keep-it-simple-stupid) as the more complicated and sophisticated a system is, the more likely something can go wrong. I do agree that the electric valve does permit greater flexibility in mounting. However, this option also requires relying on exposed wires that will need protection from mechanical as well as weathering damage, relies on electric solenoid which I'm thinking won't be as durable as a mechanical system, and of course the connectors and switch.

Guess I need to do some more thinking before starting my own project.
 
   / Diverter valve #12  
RE: size and weight.

The larger the gpm rating the larger and heavier the valve. That's the nature of hydraulics. Choosing a valve that is way over the gpm rating for your tractor does absolutely nothing for performance or reliability except add weight and size to an already cramped operator area. Bigger is not always better in hydraulics.

You will also need to reduce the fittings down to your hose size too. An extra cost. Bigger fittings mean more room is required to mount the beast.

However, it's your money and your tractor. There have been plenty of people who have posted here and said that they went with 20-30 gpm valves for a CUT and were saddened to find out that they bought an oversized heavy brick.
 
   / Diverter valve #13  
Super,
Sounds like you have your mind made up...Please post some pictures of you project when you are done:D
 
   / Diverter valve #14  
kennyd said:
Super,
Sounds like you have your mind made up...Please post some pictures of you project when you are done:D

You all bring up good points. I haven't made up my mind yet, but relying on experience from my days as a towing business owner/operator, I am leaning towards a mechanical system as opposed to an electrical based system which was less reliable and didn't perform as well in that application. Then again, my tow trucks got alot of use and ran 24 hours whenever possible to maximize income potential. I also had different people operating my trucks and they don't always get babied.

For my project, I will be adding one extra set of remotes to accommodate top/tilt. I already have the 3rd SCV but that'll only operate one cylinder. I was thinking about mounting the diverter/selector valve at the rear of the tractor and not inside the operator station so space is not as big an issue. I do not mind turning around to operate the valve. My initial plan was to plumb the valve into the outputs using quick couplers to connect to the existing remote quick-connectors as it could be installed quickly and without modification to the existing system but, I'm not sure if that will be a good idea. When I am done, I'll post pictures and descriptions of how and why I did it that way. I am hoping to get to work sometime in spring or early summer. In the meantime, I am still in the researching/brainstorming stage. Of course, I'll keep an open mind and am open to suggestions. I also respect immensely the expertise and experience of the members of TBN. Thanks again.
 
   / Diverter valve #15  
Cool! I ASSumed your were doing this for the FEL, not the rear of the tractor.

Here is another option for you to consider, even though you are leaning towards a manual setup. It just plugs right into the set of remotes you have, no plumbing required!
V&M Inc.
 
   / Diverter valve #16  
kennyd said:
Cool! I ASSumed your were doing this for the FEL, not the rear of the tractor.

Here is another option for you to consider, even though you are leaning towards a manual setup. It just plugs right into the set of remotes you have, no plumbing required!
V&M Inc.

Thanks Kennyd, Great resource that I didn't know existed! Another option to throw into the mix!
 
 
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