DK 35 No power to dash, no start, battery good, batt connection good

[JoelD]

Like others have said I’d trace from bat to switch then from switch so on and so forth.

Also, I’d check on batt voltage when you turn the key

My gremlins have all been the negative ground including ground wire to frame and even bad ground wire itself. Corroded within.

 

[ritcheyvs]

The 60a master fuse is normally taped to the wire bundle next to the starter. So that's a possibility. But first wiggle the big battery wires, preferably with another person watching for signs if life (like dash lights coming on). For some build years these cables had internal corrosion failures (inside the insulation where it's not visible). Probably the first step should be to shoot WD-40 into the key hole and cycle the switch several times; in fact, you should do that (at least) annually regardless. If you suspect a battery cable, you can bypass them (one at a time) with a battery jumper cable. Also. try the emergency flashers, flashers (plus horn if you have one) is about the only thing NOT wired through the key switch. If the flashers are good the key switch is likely the problem. If the flashers don't work check the fuse and battery cables.

 

[murphy1244]

Start at the beginning. Bat ground and main fuse next key switch and relay.

 

[Adlox]

New to any forum.
I've got a Kioti DK35, year unknown... Has been working awesome for the nearly 100 hours I've owned it. All of a sudden I have no dash lights and not able to start. I've checked to ensure pto is off and other proper starting safeties are correct. I've tested the batt, 13.3vdc, disconnected batt leads and shined them up and contact points... Turn on the key and no dash lights, no solenoid 'click'... When I shut off the key there is a brief 'buzz'. I expect this is defueling relay... I've been looking through other similar threads but nothing quite like my issue. Help?

My Kioti CS2610 HST (2014 model) developed the same issue today so was pleased to find this thread and all suggestions. I've checked all the straight forward (quick) potential problems and all ok. Will need to work through all the suggestions when time available.

The particularly frustrating point for me is that I'd used it for about 45 minutes this morning no problem - started ok first time. Left it for an hour over lunch time and when I came back absolutely dead as described by Overacross in the original post. No lights or power drain left on to drain the battery and voltage appears ok. Main 20A fuse also ok.

Could this still be a battery issue rather than a circuit integrity / component issue? Thanks for any help.

 

[Adlox]

My Kioti CS2610 HST (2014 model) developed the same issue today so was pleased to find this thread and all suggestions. I've checked all the straight forward (quick) potential problems and all ok. Will need to work through all the suggestions when time available.

The particularly frustrating point for me is that I'd used it for about 45 minutes this morning no problem - started ok first time. Left it for an hour over lunch time and when I came back absolutely dead as described by Overacross in the original post. No lights or power drain left on to drain the battery and voltage appears ok. Main 20A fuse also ok.

Could this still be a battery issue rather than a circuit integrity / component issue? Thanks for any help.

By way of an update......several hours after posting this I tried the tractor again, still dead. Tidied up having resigned myself to leaving it stranded in the field. To satisfy my desperation, tried again - started up as if everything was normal, all instrument cluster lights normal. So I drove it away and parked in the garage very relieved.

This morning - dead again (no reaction when key inserted, no instrument lights etc).

So my thinking is the battery is ok (as yesterdays tests suggested and normal start late in the day). That leaves an intermittent fault. As nothing had changed leading to the point when the tractor was ok late last night (ie I'd not fiddled with any wires, connections or components) I imagine the most logical fault is the key start mechanism. Does anyone have any thoughts please?

 

[grsthegreat]

Well, have you checked anything else, like are battery cables tight, is the ground wire secured to the frame. Can you twist the battery cables on battery by hand?
if you have an open station tractor, the key switch might be bad from weather.

 

[ritcheyvs]

Have you tried the emergency flashers? If flashers work but all else is dead the key switch is the probable cause. Have you squirted WD-40 into the keyhole (and cycled the key several times)? Intermittent key switch problems are common due to corrosion and dirt but a few shots of WD will often get things going again. It is important you discover the actual cause, vs changing several things at once. Otherwise you'll be "in the dark" again the next time this happens.

The key switch is a simple design but it is vulnerable to dirt, corrosion, and hard grease. See ignition_switch. You can disassemble and clean it but periodic "lube" with WD works as well and is much easier.

 

[Adlox]

Have you tried the emergency flashers? If flashers work but all else is dead the key switch is the probable cause. Have you squirted WD-40 into the keyhole (and cycled the key several times)? Intermittent key switch problems are common due to corrosion and dirt but a few shots of WD will often get things going again. It is important you discover the actual cause, vs changing several things at once. Otherwise you'll be "in the dark" again the next time this happens.

The key switch is a simple design but it is vulnerable to dirt, corrosion, and hard grease. See ignition_switch. You can disassemble and clean it but periodic "lube" with WD works as well and is much easier.

Thanks for your suggestions ritcheyvs & grsthegreat

Latest update ....The tractor had another moment where the hazards worked (etc) and it started up since my last post of 28th. Otherwise dead.

Since then I've been through all connections (battery and ground), tested all the fuses (except slow burn fuse), checked all relay connections. Battery has been fully recharged and a repair cycle run. None of these have resulted in any dash lights so it's the same as original issue.

Your point about emergency flashers / horn (which should work without key etc) is correct - they are not working all the time I've had this problem (But have worked on the 3 random occasions when the problem went away as covered above)! So that would rule out a key switch problem I assume.

In my investigations I've found some mouse damage on 4 of the cables (different places in the engine bay) though all appear superficial and only gnawed through the sheathing not the copper wire. Continuity "looks" unaffected. I realise that in fact it may not be the whole story.....and there may be other damage that I can't see (behind the dash cowling for example).

In the meantime, any thoughts on the following please?:-

1) The battery is now 7 or 8 years old...could that still be the problem? Yep I'm going to buy a new battery which will answer that question but would be good to hear your thoughts.
2) Is a car battery (correct voltage & Ah) OK or do I need a more specialist battery??
3) I can't find the slow burn fuse despite having the workshop manual which states its taped to the cable run near the alternator.....not on my tractor! Any knowledge on that?
4) has anybody taken the dash cowl off? Not covered in the manual other than reference to 2 screws in the engine compartment!

Thanks again for help so far.

 

[ritcheyvs]

Battery could be OK or not. But a multimeter if you don't have one (cheapie less than $10 is fine for your needs). Next time it's dead measure the voltage across the battery posts (posts, not the clamps that attach the wires) while the emergency flashers are turned on. If you see about 12 volts the battery is probably not the problem. I don't recall the build year of your machine but there was a period when the battery cables failed intermittently from corrosion inside the plastic insulation. So again with the flashers turned on slowly move battery cables (one at a time) to see if the flashers blink on. Another (somewhat dangerous) test for the battery cables is a brute-force starter test described here. There is some danger of the tractor moving or starting so be sure you are in neutral with the parking brake on. If this test spins the starter the battery cables are OK and the problem is in the smaller wires. The main 60 amp fuse may have corrosion at the connections but hasn't "blown" (they don't come back to life). By the way, my 60 a master fuse is behind the starter, not the alternator.

 

[Midniteoyl]

Fastest way to see if its the battery is jumper cables.

If you can get to the other end of the battery cable connections, you can use the jumpers to bypass them as well. Dont need to actually run the tractor though them, just test for the lights working.