DK40 Shifting issues

[NUTFARMER 1]

I have a 2003 DK40CR Kioti shuttle shift tractor with 675 hrs. It runs well and all the gears work fine including the shuttle shift eccept for the fact that the clutch does not completely disengage. I bought this tractor with 630 hrs site unseen on tractor house and had it shipped from Michigan to California... ( first mistake ) When I got the tractor it had shifting problems and the clutch felt funny. I pulled the drain in the bottom of the bell housing ( owners manual says every 50 hrs ) and nothing came out. I probed the hole and broke through some kind of crust ( clutch friction material ) and a cup and a half of oil came out. At this point it was apparent that a new clutch would be in my future. I was able to use the tractor carefully but could not shift into gear with the clutch in after idling with out resistance. ( like a dragging pilot bearing ) . Eventually the clutch starting slipping bad enough to warrant replacement ( 675 hrs ) . I split the tractor and found the rear main leaking and repaired that. I also had to put a speede sleve on the 4wd shaft where the seal rides as it was pitted ( moisture in bell housing along with oil from lack of maintenance ). I had the pressure plate rebuilt, replaced the clutch disc, through out bearing, inspected the clutch forks, made sure that I did not feel any binding between the pto input shaft and the clutch main drive shaft, changed hydraulic/trans fluid and filter, reassembled and.......... I still have the dragging , incomplete release issue... I have adjusted the free play to 1/2 inch. even moved the pedal stop down to increase release travel. If it is idling and I shift from neutral to any gear in the main trans, then with the clutch depressed try to shift the shuttle into forward or reverse it trys to go. I can shift everything when the engine is off. If I put it in gear and the shuttle in forward I can push in the clutch and start it. Clutch engages about 1/3 of the way from the top and if I am rolling I can shift it but it is relying on the syncros. some thing is dragging inside and I am baffled ... HELP!

 

[MTGreen]

Single clutch it appears for dk40?
Initially I would suspect clutch fork rotating on shaft or possibly pedal linkage problem.
Are you able to post a parts diagram or pics of the pedal linkage?

 

[NUTFARMER 1]

It is a single disk clutch pedal linkage is all tight and mechanical

 

[MTGreen]

If the clutch fork number five in the first diagram is not rigidly attached to the clutch fork rod number seven and it's able to rotate some in relation to each other that could cause the symptoms you're describing.
Not to say that's necessarily the problem but assuming your pressure plate is the proper dimensions and adjustment and your PTO shaft is not binding up with your hollow drive shaft tube that's the only thing I can think of that could be causing your symptoms. Perhaps others will chime in here with other ideas.
Is that an inspection port in the top center of the bell housing? If so you could visualize it while it's being actuated and see if there's relative movement of the clutch fork and the clutch fork shaft

 

[MTGreen]

Oh and another thing that occurred to me is if the previous owner modified the pedal to clutch linkage due to damage/redrilling attachment points or it was bent to change the angle at say the clutch pedal pivot point or parts were swapped for something that fit but wasn't the right part, it could change the effective stroke of the clutch lever -meaning a full stroke of the clutch pedal wouldn't translate into a full stroke of the clutch lever which wouldn't fully release the clutch. To see if this is the case you could remove the clutch rod from the clutch lever, then rig a pry bar to the clutch lever and see how much travel it actually has and compare that to how much travel the clutch pedal and linkage imparts to it.
If you get more travel with the pry bar, you could pick the back wheels up off the ground with some jack stands and test it with a helper to see if the clutch is fully releasing with full travel of the pry bar. If that's the case then you can re-engineer that linkage to get more clutch lever travel with the full throw of your clutch pedal

 

[NUTFARMER 1]

Every thing looks pretty much virgin on the clutch linkage. I did have the operator station clear off when I split the tractor to replace the disc . I was able to clearly see the linkage and arms at that point. Still going to try to see if that is an accesable inspection plug on the top of the bell housing and get in there with a bore scope and look at the release shaft and release bearing forks under the load of pushing the pressure plate. Looked at that stuff pretty close when I had it all apart and did not see any witness marks that would indicate slipping but the bolts holding the fork were rusted and I did not tighten or loosen them

 

[NUTFARMER 1]

Well I am about to tear this thing apart again, if anyone has anyone has any other ideas all suggestions are appreciated .

 

[nyone]

I'm not really sure how the linkage is on these but I would make damn sure the issue is in the bell housing before you split it.

With a helper and the linkage disconnected try putting a pry bar or pipe on the linkage and check to make sure its released.

 

[NUTFARMER 1]

If I start the tractor in gear with the clutch depressed it will start and does not start to fully engage till the pedal is 2/3 of the way up. I have about 1/2 inch of free play in the pedal and again if I am moving the ctutch starts to dis engage with the pedal about 1/3 of the way down. the tractor pretty much quits going forward with the peadal 1/2 to 3/4 of the way down but never completely releases so you can shift either the trans or the shuttle. Again I am going to crawl underneath with a helper and have them work the pedal so I can verify travel . I have a concern about trying to over actuate the release lever and over centering the through out forks on knocking off the release bearing retaining clips . if I make marks when some one presses the pedal I can at least use this as a refence when the operator station is off , when that is off I can't start the tractor or work the pedal because the pedals are part of the operators station/console and the power steering lines have to be disconnected so if I start it I will have hydraulic fluid every where