DK4210SE wiring for work lights

[Matco Steve]

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for a DK4210SE or any of the DKxx10SE series tractors?

Trying to wire up some work lights and found wires at the back of the tractor that go to a plug in the steering column. The factory switch is $45 so I am just going to install an aftermarket switch but there are 4 wires for the factory plug.

One wire is ground and another is switched power. The last two wires both seam to control the relay in the fuse panel.

 

[eco88]

How did it work out? Any luck?

 

[jonwarner]

I'm starting to think about this same task, DK4210SE, no cab. I see in the service manual there is a 20AMP line labeled "Working Lamp". I think this is used on the cab models for the working lights on the cab. I was wondering if I could tap into that.

As Eco88 said, how did it work out, can you share anything you learned? Eco88, did you get some lights wired up?

 

[Venturabass]

I’ve got a DK5310SE I just bought and wanted to transfer over my ROPS mounted light bar from my old tractor. Haven’t gotten to it yet. I think there’s wires on both left and right sides in back. My setup uses a surface mounted switch to control that’ll I’ll mount to the rops with double sided automotive tape. I was going to get out the multimeter and check first when they’re energized (ie key on or running, all the time, etc).

 

[jonwarner]

Starting to look at this project.
Found "Working Lamp (F)" wires on the rear right. Meter found no voltage, not even when engine running, lights on. Missing fuse? relay?



Looking at the fuse box, looks like I need a relay. Just a dummy plug in there now.




Not sure what relay to buy, seems it should match the one in the head lamp, but not sure.

 

[jonwarner]

Seems I'll need a switch too, OEM switch, $60... I think I'll buy a third party switch.

 

[Venturabass]

Okay that would make sense. Likely powered when key on. And yes then switch to control lights. It’s probably the same relays as others in there. Depending on the pin style you might be able to use just a generic automotive relay.

 

[jonwarner]

Yeah, I guess the drawback when using the existing built in working lamp circuit is the wiring to the switch would have to be to the one and only switch under the steering wheel. I was planning on two switches, one for front working lights and one for back. I'm considering using something like a "2-Circuit Led Light Bar Wiring Harness with it's own fuse and relay" instead and using the blank plates to the right and behind the seat for the switches. I think with those pre-built circuits people generally connect to the battery or starter directly.

 

[jonwarner]

So I have this working, was able to test it out last night, so much more light!

Front Light - YITAMOTOR LED Light Bar 14inch 72W Led Work Light Spot Flood Combo Led
Rear Light(s) - Nilight - 60001F-B Led Pods 2PCS 18W 1260LM Flood Led
Switches - Nilight Rear Lights Rocker Switch Led Rear Light, Nilight Rear Lights Rocker Switch Led Light Bar
Relay - MICTUNING Heavy Duty 14AWG 300W 2-Circuit Led Light Bar Wiring Harness Kit with Fuse - I ended up not using too much of this other than the relay and the wiring to the switches.
Wire - Geosiry Electrical Wire - 30Ft 14AWG
Wire protection - Electriduct 3/8" Split Nylon Wire Loom Tubing

I had some square U-bolts and flat steel I used to make a mount for the lights. As I said in the last post, I ended up running a wire from the starter to the relay and switches which I mounted on the and under the right console next to (and behind) the seat.

 

[hugeamusing]

It will be easier if you provide me with an illustration.

basket random​