lowandslow1
New member
Most folks already have this figured out but a installation tip for installing tie-rod ends/drag links is to use three jamb nuts. I had a problem getting the taper portion of the tie-rod to seat and not spin. Use one thin jamb nut next to the steering arm to pull it down and use two jamb nuts on the end bound against each other at the end of the threaded portion and use a wrench there to keep the tie-rod end from spinning. I had to use this procedure when I installed a new steering drag link on my JD tractor and the threads on the new part were metric (?#%@!? on a JD replacement part?) and it was not drilled for a castle nut, it came with a nylon locknut. The drag from the nylon locknut would spin the tie-rod and it would not seat. So a trip to ACE and 4 jamb nuts later I had the pins installed. I left the one jamb nut that pulled the pin down installed (so I could remove the locknut later if needed) and just put the locknut over the top of it.
Another tip that works like anti-seize and a lubricant is to use a little latex paint on the threads of the bolt. Paint/dab/dip the end of the bolt with latex paint and spin on the nut and torque. It dries on the threads keeping them from rusting, helps hold the nut in place, lubricates the nut as you torque and is soft enough later to not impede the removal of the nut. DO NOT use enamel as it dries too hard and can make removal later a pain.
Another tip that works like anti-seize and a lubricant is to use a little latex paint on the threads of the bolt. Paint/dab/dip the end of the bolt with latex paint and spin on the nut and torque. It dries on the threads keeping them from rusting, helps hold the nut in place, lubricates the nut as you torque and is soft enough later to not impede the removal of the nut. DO NOT use enamel as it dries too hard and can make removal later a pain.
