beeforty
Silver Member
I've never yet had a project in which I had to account for the curvature of the earth.
Bruce
I don't want a project that big either. I have enough trouble finishing the ones on my own 2+ acres:laughing::laughing:
draining ditch..
- Thread starter notme
- Start date
I don't want a project that big either. I have enough trouble finishing the ones on my own 2+ acres:laughing::laughing:
HunterWare
Bronze Member
Over any large distance the problem would be compounded by the fact that gravity differs measurably as you move over ground. This happens with elevation changes, but also over even ground due to density changes in the ground beneath. One can google "Gravity Map" and see... Not that a water level is really useful on these scales, but still interesting.
LoveTheSmellofDiesel
Silver Member
Came across this video based on the above info, good info. Was looking to see how to use it for drainage slope.
YouTube - How to Build a Water Level
YouTube - How to Build a Water Level
CurlyDave
Elite Member
If you are really worried about gravity variations, a water level is far superior to a laser level for a drainage ditch. The water in the ditch will always flow in the direction the water level indicates...
HunterWare
Bronze Member
By the time earth curvature was introduced into the discussion of how to lay your drainage ditch I figured we had well moved into the realm of intellectual curiosity and away from practical considerations. 
One doesn't mark off levels for several kilometer intervals with a water level and that is the scale you are talking about when you are talking measurable (in relation to ditch depth or the size of a mere pebble in said ditch) earth curvature or gravity shifts.
Water levels are, of course, pretty handy for figuring out how you want to cut a ditch through a field and ground clutter.
One doesn't mark off levels for several kilometer intervals with a water level and that is the scale you are talking about when you are talking measurable (in relation to ditch depth or the size of a mere pebble in said ditch) earth curvature or gravity shifts. Water levels are, of course, pretty handy for figuring out how you want to cut a ditch through a field and ground clutter.
JB4310
Super Member
Well as far as the original problem goes, like I mentioned, I would use the water in the flooded ditch to show me exactly what to do.
Just get in there with some rubber boots and a grub ax and start cutting a channel. if it's pretty obvious what needs to be done, leave it diked in one spot so you're not always working in mud. then when you think you are close, open it up and let the water flow. it'll show you what else may need to be done.
I approach every water control situation with "the lowest common denominator" mentality. wasn't trying to complicate things
JB
Just get in there with some rubber boots and a grub ax and start cutting a channel. if it's pretty obvious what needs to be done, leave it diked in one spot so you're not always working in mud. then when you think you are close, open it up and let the water flow. it'll show you what else may need to be done.
I approach every water control situation with "the lowest common denominator" mentality. wasn't trying to complicate things
JB
dave1949
Super Star Member
Well as far as the original problem goes, like I mentioned, I would use the water in the flooded ditch to show me exactly what to do.
Just get in there with some rubber boots and a grub ax and start cutting a channel. if it's pretty obvious what needs to be done, leave it diked in one spot so you're not always working in mud. then when you think you are close, open it up and let the water flow. it'll show you what else may need to be done.
I approach every water control situation with "the lowest common denominator" mentality. wasn't trying to complicate things
JB
That's just too much common sense :thumbsup: I have done the same, depending on the soil type, saturation, working in a puddle, can make the digging easier.
Dave.
NormL
Platinum Member
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notme seems to have disappeared for the last three weeks. I wonder if he got 'er done? I'm curious because I have a situation with some parallels to his. I'm hoping he comes back with the method he used and it's effectiveness. I have a 10 acre farmyard with numerous low spots and is generally shaped like a bowl in that melt and rain water gathers rather than flows away. Think mosquitoes!! The soil type is HEAVY clay and virtually waterproof. I have some swales but more are needed. Once I have the backhoe I hope to make some trenches and either lay drain-tile or backfill with stone. Thoughts?
The soil type is HEAVY clay and virtually waterproof. I have some swales but more are needed. Once I have the backhoe I hope to make some trenches and either lay drain-tile or backfill with stone. Thoughts?SixHoeBob
Gold Member
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If someone showed up on my project with a water level, I would laugh at them and then insult them until they left. On one hand we are talking about theoretically getting the pipe to the absolute correct grade, on the other hand it has been suggested to use black corrugated pipe. The black pipe is near impossible to work with. I doubt many can get PVC as perfect as the water level discussion implies.
My $2300 Rotary laser is more accurate than any project requires, and it will do slopes up to 10%.
The holes always go down. If you put the holes up stones will get in the pipe.
The low position for the holes allows the water to enter the pipe as opposed to standing in the stones.
Filling the low area without installing the drainage pipe first will result in a
reoccurring swamp.
My $2300 Rotary laser is more accurate than any project requires, and it will do slopes up to 10%.
The holes always go down. If you put the holes up stones will get in the pipe.
The low position for the holes allows the water to enter the pipe as opposed to standing in the stones.
Filling the low area without installing the drainage pipe first will result in a
reoccurring swamp.
andrewy
New member
Has anyone had any experience with this stuff?
http://www.ndspro.com/drainage-systems/french-drains/ez-drain-french-drain/
It's a slotted corrugated pipe with a synthetic aggregate surrounding it, and the whole thing is covered in a geotextile sleeve. The manufacturer claims it is cheaper than pipe + gravel (when viewed as an installed system) , and I can believe it. It looks like the consumer version is available by special order from lowest and home depot for around $45/10 ft.
AndrewY
http://www.ndspro.com/drainage-systems/french-drains/ez-drain-french-drain/
It's a slotted corrugated pipe with a synthetic aggregate surrounding it, and the whole thing is covered in a geotextile sleeve. The manufacturer claims it is cheaper than pipe + gravel (when viewed as an installed system) , and I can believe it. It looks like the consumer version is available by special order from lowest and home depot for around $45/10 ft.
AndrewY