vtsnowedin
Elite Member
That can work well but be sure there is no rebar pieces or wire in it. Very tough on your tractor and car tires.
driveway material?
- Thread starter Malibu 496
- Start date
vtsnowedin
Elite Member
That's surprising that they are that cheap in your area. Around here the paving companies hoard them all and recycle them into fresh mix to reduce the amount of new asphalt cement they have to buy. They figure they are worth $25 per ton sitting in the stockpile.
Sawyer Rob
Super Member
That can work well but be sure there is no rebar pieces or wire in it. Very tough on your tractor and car tires.
That's true, but around here they do a good job of using a magnet when they crush it...
I think crushed concrete holds up better long term, to snow removable too...
SR
Billrog
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I'd go with what ever you can grade if and when necessary. I tried Asphalt millings on 100' of my driveway & after a few yrs. you can't do anything with it but tear it up to fix any pot holes or regularity . The base would have to be perfect and stable. Lime stone, crushed concrete, 3/4" minus road mulch and probably other materials all make good rd. surfaces you can maintain.
vtsnowedin
Elite Member
To fix potholes in a RAP covered driveway you need to save some material in an out of the way spot. A couple of bucket fulls at least. Then when you need some Break up some of it with you loader bucket. (it will have got crusty and hardened sitting in the pile) and put it into a steel cement mixer. direct a propane rosebud torch into the mixer as it turns over the RAP. When it is lump free dump into your tractor bucket and go shovel into your pot holes and tamp down.
Or if you have a dumptruck you could just go buy a ton of 3/8" hot mix.
Or if you have a dumptruck you could just go buy a ton of 3/8" hot mix.
orezok
Elite Member
Out here there are miles and miles of dirt county roads. The county includes in the contract requirements that the millings be placed on adjacent dirt roads. Results in a short haul for the contractor, an improvement on the dirt roads and less dust.
Since it's low bid public works, the County virtually get the material for free.
Since it's low bid public works, the County virtually get the material for free.
PILOON
Super Star Member
Around here the asphalt plants keep millings in 2 separate piles.
One is for municipalities and the other for contractors.
They qualify by the amount of bitimus binder remaining in the material.
The non municipal stuff is usually dry, sandy and won't re bind while the good stuff generally re binds and sets up under hot sunny days.
Our city is now laying about 6" of millings on all the gravel road hills and save a bundle on maintenance as rains don't wash the roads (hills) out.
One is for municipalities and the other for contractors.
They qualify by the amount of bitimus binder remaining in the material.
The non municipal stuff is usually dry, sandy and won't re bind while the good stuff generally re binds and sets up under hot sunny days.
Our city is now laying about 6" of millings on all the gravel road hills and save a bundle on maintenance as rains don't wash the roads (hills) out.
OP
Malibu 496
Member
Thanks for all the replies. My driveway doesn't have too bad of a slope to it but it is enough to wash out little channel's in it when we get heavy rain, I did put some crushed concrete on it last year which helped but after all the traffic from my wifes daycare it is low where everybody drives and is evenstarting to washboard a little bit. I can get pretty much any of the stuff you guys have listed the only one I am not sure of is the limestone dust, crushed concrete is the easiest because there is a plant only 1/4mile from my house to get it from. As far as something to spread it with, I just put a down payment on a new kioti tractor but I am a total rookie with all of this stuff but my dad knows some about this stuff so he can help with the leveling and spreading of it. I really don't want to have to dig it out and redo a base but if that is what it takes to be more durable and require less maintenance that is what I will have to do.
Egon
Epic Contributor
Unfortunately that would be the proper way.
RedNeckRacin
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Agreed. The only reason to dig it out would be if you have soft spots or poor draining areas though. If you can get the water to flow away from the road and put a crown on it to get the water off the road in the first place, that will help out immensely. This may require some diversion bars, buried conveyor belting or culverts. IF you google dirt and gravel road maintenance it could provide you with alot of info.