Electrical sleuthing

   / Electrical sleuthing #21  
Yeah service entrance cable will be stiff. Fine strand is better. DJ's connection to battery cable supplier is probably the way to go.

I'll unmask the mystery box ahead of my coil soon as I can, and send a photo. But why would they put one on when they were keeping 6 volt?.......

some people are dangerous with electrical devices. ;) .. that's why. :)

those same people usually treat electricity like magic. they don't understand it, and really don't work well with it. :)
 
   / Electrical sleuthing #22  
***I'll unmask the mystery box ahead of my coil soon as I can, and send a photo. But why would they put one on when they were keeping 6 volt?.......***

That's what's been puzzling me... I know early model 12V IH tractors had an OEM resistor in the system to help prolong ignition point life. It was wired into the start position of the switch to give 12V to the points, to give a hot spark to start, then once the key was released, a wire from the run side of the switch was routed through a resistor, so as to drop voltage to 6V to the points.

But not even close to the animal you have there. But, inquiring minds do want to know...

Something else that slipped my mind. I'm wondering which light switch you have, that is right below the amp meter, IF it still has one, or is still connected. If it is the 4 position switch, from full left, it should click 3 times. There should also be a decal above it with LHDB, for Low charge, High charge, Dim lights, Bright lights. A 3 position switch will click twice from full left, and should have ODB decal above it for Off, Dim, Bright lights. Depending on which switch, and what position it is in may have something to do with it also.
 
   / Electrical sleuthing #23  
the lamp switch just power hogs for the lamps, and tickles the genny.

shouldn't effect the ignition any.
 
   / Electrical sleuthing
  • Thread Starter
#24  
image.jpegimage.jpegDon't know what switches this tractor originally had, but here's a pic of what's there now. No decals. The picture completely hides a third single-toggle switch (behind gear shift) the function of which I don't know and haven't bothered to trace yet. Toggle on right is front lights, no other lights. No 3 or 4 position switches, just toggle for ignition on/off and toggle for lights, no switch or space for one below the ammeter.

Did these units originally have a fuse? What did it protect- lights, ignition?
 
Last edited:
   / Electrical sleuthing #25  
Bottom right hand corner exploded view shows the mounting bracket the amp meter is in, from the back side. Official Case IH Online Parts Store and Case IH Catalog for Best Parts Search and Best Parts Look Up. Case IH Parts for Case IH Tractors, Case IH Combines, Case IH Tractors, Case IH Manuals, Case IH Parts Looks like the light switch was far right, and ignition switch, and fuse holder, was in the center holes. The fuse holders are the twist lock cap type.

There were 3 different light switches for the Super A, at different serial number breaks. Official Case IH Online Parts Store and Case IH Catalog for Best Parts Search and Best Parts Look Up. Case IH Parts for Case IH Tractors, Case IH Combines, Case IH Tractors, Case IH Manuals, Case IH Parts Note the pigtail "coil resistance" something, listed as #1 in the parts list.
 
   / Electrical sleuthing
  • Thread Starter
#26  
I bet the coil resister is how they achieved dimming the lights.

I guess the fuse was protecting the lighting circuits, how many amps was the fuse?
 
   / Electrical sleuthing #27  
Parts list says AGC 20 amp.
 
   / Electrical sleuthing #28  
I'd dyke out all existing just roll my own. No guessing involved, be good for another 60ys.
 
 
Top