Enclosed Trailer Advice

   / Enclosed Trailer Advice #11  
Spanky

Suggesting a width wider than 7' has more to do with climbing in and out of the trailer when the tractor is loaded. And carrying/storing tools, spare tire, jacks, ect. I keep a two tool boxes, wrecking bars, pieces of woods for blocking, leveling, and jack pads. I always find it amazing how much stuff I find myself tripping over in there.

The ramps I built myself. They are about 7' long, 23" wide, and (I'm guessing) 70lbs each. The ramps have a lip that sits on the tail. Built so a I can use them on anything about 14"-26" high. If notice there is a rail on one side only. The ramps can be pushed together for loading anything else on wheels. By way in pics the left and right ramps are swapped. The mower deck wheel like to grab rails. If you like the design I can post more specs and pics. Or I found a few ramp builder before I decided to build my own.

I bought my trailer off a lot. Got a very good price, but also no options. No tie down points, e-track, additional lights, etc. With the Torflex axles I've next to no movement off anything while towing.

My United is very well built where it counts. Like the frame and wiring. I am a little disappointed in some of the welds that aren't structural. Some the trim and finishing work could've been better. But, YES, I would consider another United trailer.

Something else I haven't mentioned is I am planning shore the last few feet of the deck from below. Since the tail is gets the highest traffic and is the most exposure to the elements. Mine has developed a slight sag under load.

Brian
 
   / Enclosed Trailer Advice #13  
I am not sure about the rest of the trailer world but torsion axles were very popular on boat trailers 4-5 years ago then disappeared. The reason being blown tires. The issue is with torsion axles on a tandem or tri axle trailer like I sell there is no way to balance the load somewhat evenly between the separate axles. You could have 70% of the weight on one and 30% on the other.

Conventional leaf spring setups with loaded equalizers between each axle do a very good job at evening out the load. When we weigh out a boat and trailer we find that the load is no more than 10% different on any one axle but is usually within 2-3%.

Don't get me wrong, torsion have a lot going for them. Less moving parts, less wear parts, less noise, ect. They just have draw backs also.

Chris
 
   / Enclosed Trailer Advice
  • Thread Starter
#14  
bw wis and Diamond Pilot

Thanks for the additional information.

bw wis - if you could, please add the information/specs/pictures of your own fabricated ramps when time permits. I like the idea of barn door trailer with ramps more as I ask questions on the ramp door ratings. Some will say they are a 5000 pound door when rolling and only 3500 pounds if you stop. Combine that with larger tractor only having a 66 inch wheelbase. They will offer to further upgrade the "heavy Duty " ramp door for 400 dollars more. Thus, 400 for the ramp door plus 400 for the upgrade ramp door is now 800 dollars more than the barn door. The other link to the "Swiss Trailer" pointed out that the 8.5 by 20 United trailer is your build enclosure fot the Swiss Trailer.

Diamond Pilot - Interesting point about the dual axle boat trailers and torsion axles. Helps me add more information into the decision to leave the standard 4 inch drop spring axles in place and save the added cost.

Thanks again for the information. Many things to consider with the trailer requirements. Was not this hard to purchase my 5 by 8 foot utility trailer.

Wayne
 
   / Enclosed Trailer Advice #15  
Spanky,

When I get home next week I'll take some pics for you. I'll post the specs with the pics.

Keep us updated.

Brian
 
   / Enclosed Trailer Advice #16  
I have had 2 different custom enclosed trailers built for myself. The first one was a TrailBoss 22' x 8' bumper pull. I was on a very limited budget and didn't realize how much weight I was really going to end up carrying. It was rated for 10K with two 5200# torqueflex axles and 10-ply tires. My application was different than yours but the lessons learned should still apply. I used it as a mobile shop, so I had all of my tools, toolbox, solvent tank, air compressor, hydraulic hose machine, benches, welder, generator, nuts, bolts, and various inventory. This trailer was poorly built on top of not being rated for the weight I ended up with. The axles lasted a year, the tires didn't last 6 months, and I was constantly rewelding he wall supports, and poked more than one hole in the 3/4" plywood floor. I upgraded to 6000 lb axles and 14-ply ires, I never had tire issues again, but the axles still only lasted a year. I'm guessing I was carrying closer to 14K in this trailer.

My newest trailer is a Wells Cargo 28' x 8' gooseneck rated for 20K with two 8000# torqueflex axles and 16-ply tires. It is far better built than my first trailer, and had the price tag to prove it. I put all of the same equipment in it, and it is holding up much better, plus I had Wells Cargo install custom cabinets and workbenches. I learned it was better to over build than to under build.

Shop some different manufacturers. For your application I would do more than the 3/4" plywood floor. Wells Cargo offered several different choices of thickness and material, I'm sure others do the same. I would consider adding more floor supports also, especially if their standard is 24". I would probably do 12" centers with tongue and groove flooring. I agree that the barn doors are probably a better choice than a ramp door, even the heavy-duty one. I can see where being able to load material with a forklift would be a big plus. Make sure the door opening is going to be tall enough to clear your ROPS. I don't see a problem with torqueflex axles. I worked for a landscape contractor that had a fleet of 10K# equipment trailers all with torqueflex axles and they were never a problem, and they were always right at the weight limit. My issues with torqueflex axles were simply from me far exceeding their weight rating. I would look at the cost difference between 5.2K and 6K axles. I would also highly recommend a weight distributing hitch also, it is such an improvement in the towing characteristics.

Brian
 
   / Enclosed Trailer Advice
  • Thread Starter
#17  
bw wis

Thanks. Still in process of purchasing tractor. The CK35/FEL I wanted as first choice was sold the day I was taking the measurements to make sure all the trailer dimensions work out. Happy for the dealer as he is a great local dealer but I still need to get a tractor. (note to self - need should be restated as 'want" as I can hire the work out but I like to do it myself and enjoy tractor time) So still working the tractor deal hopefully before the Free FEL special ends 31JL10. I might have to opt for the 27 or 30 Engine HP with same frame or can use the smaller frame CK20 but like the larger frame tractor.

Thanks again

Wayne
 
   / Enclosed Trailer Advice
  • Thread Starter
#18  
brian55

Thanks for the input from experience. I am looking for a good price on a well built trailer. Wells Cargo is sure on that list. Sure would like to go gooseneck but have to use bumper trailer as need the option to use on a truck that will not have bed mounted hitch. Will use a weight distributing hitch with antisway setup. The heaviest tractor with implements and 164 pounds for dirt and grass buildup will be at 4600 lbs. Trailer empty weight looking at 4200. So just at 9000 pounds with me on it as I drive onto the trailer for two 5200 lbs axles. Not much for other for sure. Need to add the the ramp weight. So the two 6000 axles even sound better. Now just need the tractor to finalize the plan.

Agree you can never have to much capacity. Well possibly when using my old one ton dual wheel pickup towing our small 2000 pound trailer.

Thanks

Wayne
 
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