Ever broken something like this?

   / Ever broken something like this? #1  

ScottOkla

Silver Member
Joined
May 4, 2005
Messages
162
Location
NE Oklahoma
Tractor
Kubota L5030HST, M9000, B7610
This is one of the drains for the hydraulic fluid on my father's B7610. It was leaking fluid a bit from here and when he tried to tighten it, this broke off.

We are debating how to fix this to make it not leak, but still be able to remove it to drain the fluid out in the future. I am going to find a longer threaded plug in order to see if it will screw in and hold on the last couple of threads before I remove the chunk that broke off the old short one.

Any suggestions from you more experienced guys?

(My first attempt to attach images, so please excuse me if it doesn't work correctly.)
 

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   / Ever broken something like this? #3  
Man, that is a tough looking one.

First thought would be to grind down to the break area and flush face it, then make a special bolt / plug maybe with an allen head.

Second thought, depending on what it is, is to disassemble the unit, weld solid and remachine threads etc. on it. Sometimes better just to get a new casting, but sometimes it works out to repair.
 
   / Ever broken something like this? #4  
It looks like it's a face seal against that washer, and I think your threads are straight ... no taper. So just putting a straight threaded plug of similar thread would not necessarily seal it.
You could run an NPT tap in there a bit deeper and use a short pipe nipple or pipe plug. That would be the easiest IMHO. If you wanted to use a short nipple, you could put a small open/close valve on the other end.
 
   / Ever broken something like this? #5  
1. If needed, tap the existing threads so they extend 3/8 to 1/2" past the break into the hole with a bottom tap
2. Pour a quart or two of (cheap) transmission fluid through the fill pipe to flush out any chips
3. Get a new bolt 1/2" or so longer than the old one
4. Drill bolt head for a safety wire
4. Clean the threads with brake cleaner, carburetor cleaner, lacquer thinner on a Q-tip
5. Install bolt with plenty of "blue" Loc Tite
6. Install safety wire and tie it off so it pulls the bolt into the hole;
7. Give Loc-tite plenty of time to set.
8. Try it out.

That method works pretty good on through holes into water jackets, etc.
 
   / Ever broken something like this? #6  
1. If needed, tap the existing threads so they extend 3/8 to 1/2" past the break into the hole with a bottom tap
2. Pour a quart or two of (cheap) transmission fluid through the fill pipe to flush out any chips
3. Get a new bolt 1/2" or so longer than the old one
4. Drill bolt head for a safety wire
4. Clean the threads with brake cleaner, carburetor cleaner, lacquer thinner on a Q-tip
5. Install bolt with plenty of "blue" Loc Tite
6. Install safety wire and tie it off so it pulls the bolt into the hole;
7. Give Loc-tite plenty of time to set.
8. Try it out.

That method works pretty good on through holes into water jackets, etc.
Ok,but how are you going to use it as a drain plug after the repair you have just described
DGS
 
   / Ever broken something like this? #7  
Ok,but how are you going to use it as a drain plug after the repair you have just described
DGS

How about skipping the Loc-tite and using Teflon tape?
 
   / Ever broken something like this? #8  
plug hole with a rag to keep debri out. cut and grind broken part smooth and flat, just a shorter version of orriginal. retap hole for new bolt, use rubber washer under bolt, dont over tighten!!!. how big is the whole removeable piece? its hard to tell by pictures. You might be better to remove and have a machine shop grind and retap.
 
   / Ever broken something like this? #9  
Blue Loc Tite will loosen with a wrench. It is Red Loc Tite that must be heated to about 400 deg F to release.

I know it works well with anti-freeze. For example, on my old 1977 Bronco two of the long 5/16 bolts holding the water pump to the block go through the outer block wall into the water jacket. The shop manual calls for Blue Loc Tite on those threads. It blocks 200+ deg coolant under 14 psi, and I suspect it will work on 200 deg (at most) oil under maybe 1/2 psi.

And it is almost the easiest of all the fixes to try. If it doesn't work you can take a more drastic approach.

A little drip won't hurt anything, and will keep the underside from rusting.
 
 
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