Everlast PA 200 ST arrived

[k0ua]

Stinger on positive(+) is reverse polarity not straight. As far as welders go and most DC current, the flow is negative to positive. That's the stinger on the - is straight polarity and the stinger on the plus is reverse polarity. I was taught to remember that DCRP=EP. DCRP is used the most for stick welding but some rods like 7024 actually burn a little nicer on DCSP even though they will burn on any polarity.

See? I can't even keep it straight.. What is the purpose of "straight polarity/reverse polarity" terms? Why not just say DCEP or DCEN? That describes how to hook up and run the electrode. I just don't see the need for the straight/reverse terms. They have no meaning to me.

 

[arrow]

My confusion started when the welder instructions state: "Positive connection: holder connects with "-" terminal while work piece connects "+" terminal. Negative connection: work piece with the "-" terminal, holder with "+" terminal". Work piece I assumed meant "ground" and "holder" was the stinger. So most welding is done with reverse polarity it seems and this is DCEP . I'm just happy the thing came with 14' leads. I guess they just lop off whatever cable length they want in China. I am not going to keep this thing outside in the garage. Even the manual states to prevent "water and steam" from entering machine. "Steam" could be the translation for "humidity" for all I know.

 

[k0ua]

manual states to prevent "water and steam" from entering machine. "Steam" could be the translation for "humidity" for all I know.

Good points!

 

[SSdoxie]

OK, there have been some pretty serious discussion in this forum lately so are you guys ready for some chuckles?
It finally warmed up enough this weekend to lay in the shop a little bit. Not having much scrap left over from earlier projects, I didn't have much to practice on so I jumped right into it a built my stand/cart for this welder.

1st pic is some test weld I ran last month just to make sure the welder worked this was some 6013 1/8".


Before getting into the assembly to far I tried a 3/32" 6011 on the E6010 port. This is what happens when you get in a hurry and forget to turn the auto-darkening switch on in the helmet. Probably would have done better if I could see where I was going.
View attachment 361381

Rest of the welds are all 3/32" 7014 @ 55-60 amp. One other thing I found out with "hot start" feature is "it's a whole lot easier to get bead started than it is to stop".


Here is the finished product. It won't win any prizes for appearance, but I had FUN doing it. Now I can see the dial and display without getting down on my knees.:cool2:

 

[Underdog57]

OK, there have been some pretty serious discussion in this forum lately so are you guys ready for some chuckles?
It finally warmed up enough this weekend to lay in the shop a little bit. Not having much scrap left over from earlier projects, I didn't have much to practice on so I jumped right into it a built my stand/cart for this welder.

1st pic is some test weld I ran last month just to make sure the welder worked this was some 6013 1/8".
View attachment 361358

Before getting into the assembly to far I tried a 3/32" 6011 on the E6010 port. This is what happens when you get in a hurry and forget to turn the auto-darkening switch on in the helmet. Probably would have done better if I could see where I was going.
View attachment 361371 View attachment 361381

Rest of the welds are all 3/32" 7014 @ 55-60 amp. One other thing I found out with "hot start" feature is "it's a whole lot easier to get bead started than it is to stop".
View attachment 361372 View attachment 361373

Here is the finished product. It won't win any prizes for appearance, but I had FUN doing it. Now I can see the dial and display without getting down on my knees.:cool2:
View attachment 361375

Please keep us informed, that is the welder I am looking at.

 

[SSdoxie]

Please keep us informed, that is the welder I am looking at.

I recommend this welder to anyone that is looking for a simple to use machine that even an "hack" like me can do a half-way decent job with.

Here is another project I did today. Main reason I bought the welder after my Lincoln AC 'bit the dust". Adding a QA plate to my 3pt. pond scoop so I can use it on the loader for a couple projects coming up this summer that requires a much narrower bucket than the 60" & 68" that I have.



Here is first bead I ran, 1/8" 7018 @ 105 amp setting. Not bad considering with the old AC I had to turn amps up so high to start the arc it melted everything and splattered all over the place.

This is second bead I ran on the other side.


Now comes the tough part (vertical), I have a long way to go to get this down but it isn't going to fall off. This trying to weld 3/16" angle to the 3/8" QA plate.
At least it won't fall off :laughing: Some day I might grind it off and smooth it over with some 7014.

Here is just a comparison of when I put identical QA plate on 1 of my buckets. This is 1/8" 6013 using the AC machine and if memory is correct about 135-140 amp.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

Dennis, I hope this does not insult your welding, but I think this is a good example of an inverter's potential to make improvements in people's welding, with the comparison you drew here. Although as you indicated the top weren't pretty, but would hold, but the last one is even less appealing and likely to fall off if it was leaned on.

 

[Arc weld]

I think part of the problem is he's burning too cold. You never really rely on what the meters say but 105 amps for 1/8" 7018 is too low. Should be around 130 amps. Would get a nicer bead and you wouldn't have to beat the snot out of it to get the slag off. All the chipping hammer marks isn't a good thing. I think doing a few hours of practice with the new machine would go along away in showing how much better and easier to use it is.

 

[ENC]

Just keep us posted on your progress. It is like I am learning with you. I have been studying this forum and watching videos and am determined to burn up some rods this summer and improve my stick welding.

 

[SSdoxie]

Appreciate the comments here guys. just want to make it clear to anyone reading this, any and all deficiencies in these welds is solely due to the operator (me). The machine is so much easier to use than my old AC tombstone it's unbelievable.
Mark, I went back and ground off my attempt at vertical weld, tipped the bucket over so I could go horizontal and also went over the top welds as well. Here is the results:

These were using 6013, same rod as in the AC comparison I showed in previous post. If I never get any better I can live with this.

Arc weld, Thanks for the tip on heat setting. If I had read this before going back to shop today, I may have tried redoing with the 7018 @ higher setting, but will keep it in mind for next time. I have been going under impression if arc started easily, without any trouble, setting was about right. This was based off my limited experience with the AC, in that by time I turned it up to get the arc started I almost burned through the material.