F 3060

[dougcat]

trying to recommission an F3060 2 areas of concern. F/R Pedal, doesn't feel like it centers properly, there's a bit of jerk moving from F/R manually, doesn't quite return to neutral no pedal one must tap to disengage hydro/complete neutral. Seems like one must depress pedal too far fwd to before motion. Is that linkage adj? Second, rear wheels what is acceptable motion/hands on moving wheel side to side i get a tiny amount hands up/down quite a bit side to side. Thanks

 

[arto98607]

trying to recommission an F3060 2 areas of concern. F/R Pedal, doesn't feel like it centers properly, there's a bit of jerk moving from F/R manually, doesn't quite return to neutral no pedal one must tap to disengage hydro/complete neutral. Seems like one must depress pedal too far fwd to before motion. Is that linkage adj? Second, rear wheels what is acceptable motion/hands on moving wheel side to side i get a tiny amount hands up/down quite a bit side to side. Thanks

I suggest getting a F3060 Workshop Manual if your plan is to do the work by yourself.

I bought a 3600 hour F3060 few years ago and took it just about completely apart except the engine, in order to replace & repair everything that was in need of it - front to back.

How many hours on your mower - photos of the mower would be helpful?


Speed Change - yes there is plenty of adjustment possibility.

Check this first:

 

[arto98607]

trying to recommission an F3060 2 areas of concern. F/R Pedal, doesn't feel like it centers properly, there's a bit of jerk moving from F/R manually, doesn't quite return to neutral no pedal one must tap to disengage hydro/complete neutral. Seems like one must depress pedal too far fwd to before motion. Is that linkage adj? Second, rear wheels what is acceptable motion/hands on moving wheel side to side i get a tiny amount hands up/down quite a bit side to side. Thanks

There should not be slack in the rear wheels in either way if you want the mower to travel straight with as little correction as possible.

There are easy to replace plastic bushings (Item 30) that will wear out, and so will the tie rod ends (Item 160) so I would start there.

 

[dougcat]

Thanks for your reply, hrs 1438, I did order a hard copy WSM should arrive today. In the meantime I decided to removed a few items to get a better look. The steering ujoint needs replacing since I'm in there 2 bushings. Tries to pull the shaft up doesn't want to budge and tricks there?

 

[arto98607]

Thanks, not bad mine has close to 3 times the hours now.

I don't recall having trouble getting the steering shaft out - I also removed the steering controller below it (it's gerotor type) and did internal O-ring seal replacement due to minor oil leak.
There is a ball bearing at the bottom end of the steering shaft, just above the controller which I had to replace.

The WSM will be great help.

PS. That area of the framing seems to collect wet grass clippings which will cause some rust - would be wise to clean up, kill the rust with chemicals & repaint if you plan keeping the mower. Behind the battery tray is another area to check for wet grass and rust...

 

[dougcat]

Both are in my basket as well. I didn't force the steering shaft up just tried pulling and it wasn't budging. Have 2.5 tears in the right shoulder pretty much pain free but I gotta pay attention certain uses. My guess one or both of the bushing are causing resistance.

The rear, too clarify, off the ground top/bottom 6/12 oclock hands on tire a tiny movement. 3/9 oclock both sides via the tie rod move an inch or so not so much the steering wheel. I don't see any issues with ball joints so leaves the part you referenced. Which appears to be "bush" 67910-56430 those really could cause that play? Thanks

 

[arto98607]

If the plastic bushings you mentioned wear out due to lot of use or lack of lubrication, it will cause metal to metal contact (the right side wears more) and will start wearing support knuckle (070) and arm knuckle (060) shown in the enclosed.

I had to replace both on the right side and the arm knuckle on the left side, as well as the tie rod (120).

Hard to say if the play you describe is due to worn plastic bushings or not but, if any doubt - it's relatively easy to remove the right side arm knuckle for inspection.
Well, at least it's easy to say so.


PS.
I hear you about the shoulder - I had rotator cuff tear few years ago and it's fine now, but it took a long time to heal. I think it took 2 - 3 years...

 

[dougcat]

Any thoughts on theses rear pics? I've ordered new matching tires, dust covers. Also, the upper/lower post bushing replacements are on the way.

 

[dougcat]

about speed control, when depressing the pedal there's no resistance until these settings, 1st pic is fwd, 2nd reverse, all connecting points are tight/fine. Is this a matter of adj the rod length via 080?

 

[5030]

Pretty corroded I'd say. Must have lived outside. I'd be at least giving it a good bath and lubricating all the sliding-moving surfaces and repainting (after proper prep) the corroded parts.

I don't care for the 'homebrew' hitch on the back end either, I'd loose that real quick and mount the OEM weight bracket and weights where that cobbly hitch is at. Thing looks tacky.