I am wondering if anyone with an F series has installed tire chains, specifically on the steering tires?
I bought appropriate sized chains for my 18x9.5-8 tires, and was dismayed that they interfered with the hub/knuckle/spindle behind the wheel when installed.
I use my F3060 for snowblowing, and found that last year I was a bit light in the rear end and had limited steering traction. I will add a bit more weight to the rear this year, but really want to get chains on.
Steering wheel/tire data:
-18x9.5-8
-3" backspacing (rear hub face of wheel to edge of steel rim)
-4x100mm bolt pattern with 67.1mm hub
I was hoping to stay away from spacers, but right now these seem to be my best option:
View attachment 343538
These are 38mm thick (1.5"), and do have the hub centric 67.1mm.
I ran a set like this on my 2000 GMC K2500 to space the rears out to match the track of the front and they did work out well.
Thanks all, I appreciate your input and creative solutions!
Chris
I wanted to update this thread now that I have installed the spacers and put a little time in on them.
-the correct hub size is 70.1mm, not the 67.1 that I previously mentioned (and ordered). After getting the correct hub centric spacer, all was good.
-I have about 200 pounds on top of my original counterweight... I think another 50 pounds or so is going to balance things out properly. Once I find my "ideal" weight, then I will start fabricating. I suspect that may wait until warmer weather (like JUNE!). I like the idea of loaded tires, but will wait until I get a second set to keep it "light" for mowing.
-the tire chains have made a tremendous difference in steering. That and the extra weight this year have made close quarter work much more predictable.
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Hi Dan, Back down-under again and my F2880 is doing fine after having to rebuild much of the steer-axle (machine has 1600 hrs of hard commercial use), but I have put my idea of a "JohnyBucket" set up on hold again as still looks like too big a deal to quickly swap-out with the mower. I do still want to add some more weight to the back end and like your solution of a second factory cast weight. How much does it weigh? Cost?
Hi Rip,
My dealer let me have a used one for 50, they routinely take off the factory weights and install 4 - 55Lbs cast iron weights on a bulky mounting bracket which sticks way out the rear and which hits trees due to the swing-out on turns, especially while I was getting used to the tractor rear steering:thumbsup: I used 2 - 2-1/2 by 1/2" bolts, + nuts, flats and lock washers, a bit of bondo and paint, it didn't really cost too much at all and weighs 212 vs the the 226 Lbs for the suitcase weights.
If you need more weight, I'd add antifreeze, maybe 2 gallons in each rear tire (used stuff if you can get it). I had that in my cub, front and rear tires, for 15 years, installed new tires last summer and the rims (inside) looked brand new.
All the best to you as well for the New Year
Dan
Hi Dan, While I can understand the flexibility of suitcase weights, still surprised the dealer would automatically remove the single factory weight and replace with the suitcase (must be making too good a profit). I do see on the current K site the factory now uses suitcase weights on some of the bigger models that can handle V large mower heads. I will check with the one (three branches though) Kubota dealer here in Tas for possible used or new price. Any chance you would have a part number?
Regarding your reinforced mounting, do you really think I will need to do similar or likely get by with just mounting a second weight to my original?? A second weight sure looks like the simplest (and neatest) solution. I already loaded the main tires with antifreeze (more for anti-corrosion than freeze protection), and still may do the rears, but did not figure that 4 gallons/ea would be enough by itself to make much difference for the rear. May reconsider if no used cast weights and too $$$ for a new one. Cheers, Rip