FARM PRO 2425 HELP!!!!!

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( My take on that is that 30W oil is the cheapest thing the manufacturers can pour in, for the purpose of preservation during shipment. Sorta like cosmoline on new guns )</font>

I agree completely.. except.. that their factory should produce a finished product. There is no reason why they should go to the expense to produce a tractor.. then pour the absolute cheapes fluid in it they can. This same discussion went on in the yanmar sub a while back. Someone asked about tranny oil, and a dealer mentioned that the factory ( exporter? ) said ATF was fine.. I pointed out that the tranny and rear end are a common sump.. and I questioned whethere tranny fluid would be a good rear final drive lube.. since virtually NO other equipment manufacturer uses it that way...And that is what it boiled down to.. cheapest fluid they could ship it with.. I signed off that thread with a warning to check their imports in case baby oil or cooking oil ever went on sale.. as that is probably what would get shipped out.. using that 'pass the buck' logic.

One point though.. cosmo on guns is for storage.. not lubrication... If someone shipped a gun in vasolene to save a buck.. that would be a closer analogy. I expect that tractor to roll of fthe line and be work ready.. all fluids inclusive.

I see domestic tractors arive at 'big-3' dealers and they drive them of fthe truck.. so they aren't shipped dry. I'm guessing that's the same oil the purchaser gets when he buys the tractor...

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( So I believe what you've heard comes from self-importers )</font>

What I've heard comes from right here.. this very sub.. search the archives.. many specific threads about the oils being too thick for the screen.. plus many other cheap out the door shortcuts.. questionable radiator fluid, and or batteries.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The defects you see may very well be as a result of the cottage industry approach; many jobbers providing a common part or casting, no two of which are ever exactly the same )</font>

I also believe that to be true. Lots of hand fitting.. and many parts sources assembled and sold as spec'd. I guess if you have lotsa rice, labor and not much else.. that's what you get... lots of otherwise unskilled labor making parts that come off production equipment that isn't altogether exact... thus providing parts that are almost unique.. etc.
( not kicking them for this... just agreeing verbosely.. ya work with what ya got...)

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( And it's much apparently simpler for them to cast iron and steel than it is to stamp steel )</font>

Again.. I agree. I've even bought asian produced aftermarket parts for my older domestic tractors.. in many cases the part being replaced will have been oem stamped steel or machined billet.. etc.. and will come in as some sort of cast metal.. etc.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( This is just a small example of why I recommend potential owners buy more (Chinese) horsepower than they think they'll ever need
)</font>

Agree.. again.. and here's another reason to get more chineese hp.. think of it like this. Compair a higher quality brand 'x' tractor and a chineese tractor of same stats.. work both at max usage.. or even overtax them. My bet is that the one built to higher tolerance standards.. and using superior materials will live longer. Take that same tractor and instead compair it to a chineese one 1.5 times as big, and theat cureve may well level out... while the smaller unit is stillat max usage.. the chineese one may be bumped back down into regular use.. in which case.. should last longer..

Like you said.. its all relative.. everyones really buying the same amount of tractor per dollar.. the chineese ones are just less expen$ive per unit...
/forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Soundguy

 

[Travis_R]

Fellers, I am sorry that I haven't been on my computer. It was out of commission for a few days.

All of you have been very helpful, but I still don't really understand a couple of problems/Questions. I guess I didn't make it clear enough for you. I should have added more details. My fault. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

1. STEERING PROBLEM:
Picture this. The tractor is sitting still. The tires are turned all the way, for example, to the right (this goes for the left too. Just using the right for example).They can not turn anymore. The Steering Wheel DOES keep turning to the right. The steering wheel doesn't have any "pressure" on it at all. In other words, when I let go of the steering wheel, it doesn't kick back to the left. BUT, the tires still stay turned, "locked", to the right until I turn the steering wheel back to the left. The wheels stay in position whenever I let go of the wheel. They don't move unless I make them.
What is wrong, how do I fix it, and how much will it cost to fix it. PLEASE BREAK IT DOWN step by step. I am a slow learner and a slow typist and don't know much about computers.

2. P.T.O. PROBLEM:
I haven't tried it yet about the ENGAGE/DISENGAGE LEVER by my left heel. I never even noticed there was a lever there. I guess I over looked it. I just thought that when you press in the clutch all the way, you could move the 540/N/1000rpm lever in 540/1000 position, let out on the clutch, and the p.t.o. shaft would start spinning. Guess I was wrong. Maybe there isn't a P.T.O. problem?

3. HYDRAULIC PROBLEM:
The oil coming out of the check/vent/fill hole IS FOAMY. It starts SPEWING out of the little vent tube like it is pressurized or something. I took the whole plug out (square headed plug) and watched the oil inside. It just started to rise until it came out of the hole and spilled all over the back of the tractor. There was no implement attached either. The hydraulics are still very strong, even though it is losing oil. I have noticed something though that I don't know if it is right, and it probably isn't. The lift won't hardly lift up unless you accellerate the fuel. When you "give it the gas" the lift comes up fast. If it is just idleing, the lift won't come up. You can hear the pump making noise like it is in "stress" until I let go of the UP/DOWN lever. What is wrong, how can it be fixed, and how much will it cost?

I thought ya'll needed to know that I am not going to be the one fixing this tractor. I am just relaying these messages and taking notes. My dam piece of junk printer is broke, so I can't print.
Also, my friend really don't care about his tractor because he don't do any maintenance or look for potential problems on it. Not long after he got it, he was bush hogging a clear-cut and ran over a pine stump. He bent the front driveshaft. He cut it and rewelded it back up. It works well now, but how long will it stay "fixed?" He just uses it when he wants and parks it till' next time. That REALLY makes me mad because someone like me who loves, lives, and breathes tractors doesn't have one. He, I don't believe,don't deserve to have one. He don't have any use for a tractor but he just uses it to mainly play and "fiddle around". But, it is his money. BUT NOT ANY MONEY AT ALL IN THE TRACTOR. He took a chance on a $20.00 raffle ticket on a used Harley Davidson motorcycle. He won it. He traded the cycle for the 1 hour old tractor. The tractor has 67 hours on it now and has been PUT THROUGH HELL. NO, IT IS NOT UNDER WARRANTY. It definitely defines the meaning "RODE HARD AND PUT UP WET". The tractor sits more than it is used. But when used, it is abused. This tractor may never get fixed. I don't know. But if he ever decides to fix it, I'll have some dam good information for him. I wish he woul come off of it before it gets worse. I don't think he will, though.
You folks are very smart and friendly. I appreciate that very much. There are more questions I want to ask and learn about. But, I have to quit typing now and go on and post this long message because I am hot in the head. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

 

[bluechip]

Tavis,
The steering issue is not uncommon, the seals in the steering cylinder are allowing fluid to leak past, there is sufficient pressure to turn the wheels, but as you hit the stop, and keep turning, more oil is pumped into the cylinder to replace the oil that is leaking out into the other half of the cylinder and back into the sump. You could dissassemble the front cylinder and replace the seals, probably about $ 30-40 in parts, 1.5 hours labor including removal and refitting.

2. check that PTO engage-disengage lever, bet that does it,

3. foamy oil, we have covered that here, based on the bent drive shaft inork, i'd say there is a leak on the suction line running from under the seat to the pump on the side of hte engine. Sounds like it is pretty severe so you should be able to see oil leaking out when the tractor is off. just wipe the line clean and then go over it with a paper town and seeif it gets oily.

That should take care of it.
Chip

 

[Harrygoodwrench]

Do as Chip says and if you can't find any obvious leaks, pull the filter. The filter is mounted on a tube that screws into the upper part of the housing and has an "O" ring. If that tube were loose it would pull air from inside the hydraulic fluid resovior as the upper part of the tube is above the fluid line. Alas to check this you must pull the filetr housing but only takes 10 minutes and while at it clean filter. Regards, Harry G

 

[bluechip]

Good point Harry! I missed that part. I figured when he bent the drive shaft, he could have easily banged up the suction line, got to be a pretty good air leak to raise the level so quickly, but should be a fairly easy and inexpensive fix.

 

[SPIKER]

TRAVIS:

the steering is doing prety much what is is susposed to do!. When you let go of the wheel if you are not moving it will not move the tires at all. if you are moving they will slowly come back twards straight but not very fast. it is not a car and does not have passive steering. it has active steering as in you have to activly steer it! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif turn right it will move the tires to turn right untill it hits the stops then pressure builds and the relife lets it bypass and or the steering cylinder leaks a bit for bypass. this is common but probably not anything to worry about unless it is leaking out the rod end.

as for the front drive shaft getting broke it is tucked up high not sure how he broke it unless he got too much traction when stuck aginst the stump and the torque twisted the drive shaft off... otherwise it would have hit the front axle and steering cylinder. (maybe it pushed the stump over and then the root ball hit drive shaft?) anyhow the only REAL problem is the foam ing hydraulics as I can see.

do as suggested above and post back if it is still doing it. the grinding nnsqueeling noises is typical of a pump which is getting AIR in the hydraulics and is not good for the pump. again get to the bottom of the foam first. empty out the 30 weight oil that is probably still in there and add B303 or Hydraulic fluid. others use ATF fluid works well too. Hydraulic fluid is lighter than the heavy 30 weight for flowing ability and longevity. also make sure what ever you get is antifoaming.

One thing also is that the HYDRAULICS will foam and suck the already foamy fluid into the pump causing it to foam more so it is self exobating meaning more foam it has worse it gets worse it gets more foam it makes as the foam bubbles get smaller and smaller they take up more and more room. which means the fluid dumps out letting more air into the tank so it sucks more air which in a very short time there is little more than shaving cream in there and very little oil... it can help to get the foam out to drain out the resiviour and start over plain and simple. while drained pull the seat and the hyd intake suction line and filter clean it out and make sure there is a o-ring on there when re-installed. let the tractor set for a few days so the foam in the system will settle out to one bigger air bubble, start it up let it run at idle, run the controls slowly up/down and full stroke them a few times and shut down and let it set a few more days. this way the air gets out before it becomes FOAM...
Otherwise you will be starting over again...

/forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
Mark M

 

[Travis_R]

To All:

Every one of you know what you are talking about. I will not be the one working on the Farm Pro 2425. I don't even think that my friend even knows there are problems with his tractor. He don't take the time to look /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif. Like I said, he just uses it and puts it up till next time. He is not a dumb person, he just don't care. He might not fix it until something major happens. Then, it is still liable to sit up for a period of time because he really don't have no use for it and only paid $20.00 for it (in his eyes). Don't get me wrong, he is a great person and will help you any way he can. I just don't like some of his ways. ESPECIALLY when it comes to his tractor. When I am on a tractor, the seat is the top of the world. I just wanted information on what was wrong with his and how it could be fixed so I could relay the message and my notes in case he ever decided to do something with it. I would LOVE to get involved with this tractor but I just can't go to his house and start taking the thing apart when it isn't mine. That pees me off because I can't stand to see ANY tractor go to waste. If he ever decides to fix it though, I will have a lot of EXCELLENT information because of CARING people like ya'll.

I don't want to get off the Farm Pro 2425 subject and start talking about him. That is not what this post is about. I just wanted to let ya'll know that when you tell me how to fix the problems, I cant. I just want the information. The Know-How. Ya'll are doing a great job of sharing it with me too.

So, keep coming with the info, and as long as I am able to type and write and this computer stays running, I'll keep replying and taking notes. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

Oh! I almost forgot. This is for Mr. Mark M. I wasn't there when it happened, but he didn't break the front driveshaft into on the stump. It just bent it real bad, so I was told. They cut and re-welded it somehow. It is holding up good as of right now. I used 4WD just about the whole 6 or 7 hours I was on the tractor the other day and it worked fine. I think I was the first person who ever put a grader box on the thing, also.

I noticed that I couldn't get it to go in 4WD unless the tractor was rolling just a little, or if I let out on the clutch a little while moving the 2WD/4WD lever. Is this normal? I heard it was, but ain't sure. It went back in 2WD fine with no movement of the tractor. Also, I don't think that the Rear Positive Traction is working properly. The lever goes into the "engaged" position with a slight grinding and feels like it is correct. But, only one wheel wants to spin, unless I apply the individual brakes to lock the other wheel, depending on which wheel is spinning, like I had to do to my old 1949 Ford 8N.

Thank all of you for understanding,
Travis R.

I have been to John S's site. WONDERFUL place to visit about Chinese tractors. I can't view all of the pages cause this junk computer won't let me. Good work Mr. John, keep it up.

P.S. I just got the opportunity to bush-hog today and maybe tomorrow /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif on a Kubota L4310 4x4 w/FEL and a brand new BUSH HOG brand SQUEALER SQ720 cutter (6ft.). I have never had the opportunity to cut with a FARM PRO, but I LIKE the FARM PRO 2425 TRACTOR, BETTER than the KUBOTA L4310, even though I love all tractors. I will post another discussion about this topic. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( he didn't break the front driveshaft into on the stump. It just bent it real bad )</font>
Probably just dented the driveshaft housing. Tricky part of that little job is getting all the ball bearings back in at re-assembly time

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I let out on the clutch a little while moving the 2WD/4WD lever. Is this normal?)</font>
yup. And it might also be aggravated by the fact the driveshaft was reinstalled)</font>

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Also, I don't think that the Rear Positive Traction is working properly.)</font>
It's called a Locking Differential Travis, more often just stated as "diff lock". What you describe is normal, considering that it's not designed to STAY locked. You engage the lever and HOLD it only for as long as you need the extra traction of the 2nd tire. When it's no longer needed, let go of the lever and it will disengage itself. Using it full time will cause transmission damage.

And as a matter of form, we don't usually promote one nationality of tractor over another in this particular forum. Too many non-productive arguments have a tendency to drag on to no real end. This one is more appropriate for simple "care and feeding of Chinese tractors" type topics. But there is a forum on this website that may be more suitable; try Owning/Operating or Buying/Pricing

//greg//

 

[Travis_R]

Mr. Greg,

I agree with you about the Farm Pro and Kubota issue. I went ahead and deleted the post. I wasn't trying to get someone to buy one tractor over the other. I was just saying which one I liked better. Especially with my budget! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[SPIKER]

Travis: that grinding you are hearing when you try and use the engauge lever is more than likely the PTO engauge and disengauge lever you are trying to move!!! DON"T DO THAT unless the clutch is IN!!! the small lever all way on the floor is the PTO lever. there is a LONG lever that comes up from the base twards the seat, this is the DIF LOCK lever. push slightly while letting the clutch OUT and move while HOLDING the lever in, it will not GO INTO ENGAUGE untill the locking dogs align! don't FORCE it you will only bend or break something. same for disengauging it. as stated above by soundguy I think the lever will pop out of LOCK on it's own when the two wheels are moving together and 0 diferencial torque is applied. DON"T EVER LOCK the dif and drive on HARD SURFACE you will bend the lock dogs and bind them together permatly... same for 4 wheel drive NEVER on HARD DRY DIRT and TURN HARD in 4 wheel drive it can twist the front drive shaft off as the front and rear ends try and turn at different rates. remember DIF LOCK LEVER is at hand height on the right side of the seat ahead of the 540/1000 pto secondary speed selector lever.


Ok next question~? /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif