Farmall 140 Carb Issues

[Whymee]

Gentlemen,
I have a McCormick Farmall 140 (ser # 63353 JHC) that has been in our family since new. 1001 hrs. Always stored in a garage or a lean to. Never had to twist a wrench on it until 2 days ago. Figured I would get it running & sell it, since it is not needed on the "plantation" anymore.

It has been 10 or so years since it last ran. It was up to me to bring her out of its deep sleep. Purchased a battery. Pulled the fuel & air system (tank, lines, sediment bowl, carb and air box) and gave it a through cleaning. Regasketed the carb and sediment bowl (marvel schebler TSX864 77Y) and reassambled with fresh gas.

IT fired right up. Idled beautifully for about 7 seconds. Then started sputtering like the choke was on (it was not). Pulled the air cleaner assy and noticed some fuel was running out of the mouth of the carb (air filter side) when the motor would quit. This lead me to believe I have too much fuel flowing somewhere.

Pulled the carb and adjusted the floats to 1/4" from the gasket surface. Same issue as above.

Purchased a rebuild kit from NAPA. Could not find a kit for the TSX864. Used something close. (NAPA 2-1403). Replaced the Needle & seat & idle adjusting needle. Checked the float. This carb is a "type A" carb. "Fixed Jet" they call it. No external adjustments other than the above 2 items. Again I cleaned the carb. This time I noticed the power jet, located under the main nozzle. I could not get this jet out. I even broke a piece off of the top of the jet trying to. Should not effect operation unless A. it is still clogged and B. if the main nozzle seats upon the power jet.

Assembled everything but left off the air cleaner so I could view into the carb. Started right up (idle) but in a couple seconds the same issue, too much fuel again. I tried adjusting the idle adjusting needle (it was set at 2 turns out. Instructions said 1 turn which I was at) in & out. nothing made any change in the way it ran. Still too much fuel (in my estimation).

So I thought, ok, I will just replace the carb. Of course I could not find a listing for a TSX864 or a listing for a suitable replacement.

I am at my wits end guys. Hopefully someone can shed some light on my issue(s)!!

Thanks in advance!!

 

[DJ54]

I would have to guess when you took it apart, you've either bent the float some putting it back together, improperly set the adjustment, or, the the float axle ( pin that the float hinges on) possibly slid sideways, binding the float in a lower position. Any of these will cause fuel to keep flowing into the carb. bowl, not shutting fuel flow off.

If unless the throttle bushings were shot, and sucking air, and it had the solid metal float needle, more than likely, all it needed was a good cleaning. Out of the 20 some C-113/C-123 engine carbs I've had apart, only one required acarb kit, and that was to replace the main needle valve a PO had ran in too far, and smooshed the end, but that was on a Zenith. All other parts, including the bowl gasket was re-used, and sealed right up.

I'd have to guess right now, the float setting is your main issue. You can try doing a hit and miss, adjusting it like 1/16" at a time to run deeper in the bowl. Maybe 1/8" the first time, and then go from there, until you get it set properly. They can be touchy, so no more than 1/16" at a time, if the 1/8" doesn't shut the fuel off. Today's ethanol laced gas, has a different specific gravity than the old leaded gas, so the float needs to run deeper in the bowl, to compenate.

An easy way to "see" inside the bowl, to confirm fuel level, is to shut fuel off, remove drain plug from the bottom of the carb, then run a 1/8" npt barbed fitting in. You'll also need approx. 18" of clear vinyl tubing. Slip the tubing on the barbed end of the fitting, then turn up 180º past the carb. Turn fuel back on, and watch the fuel level in the tubing. Fuel level should be approx. 1/4" from the top of the fuel bowl, minus gasket.

When adjusting the float level, compensating for the differnet specific gravity of ethanol fuel, looking at it sideways, it should be hanging slightly below level, as a starting point. From there, you can tweek it to get proper fuel level. All this is assuming there isn't a pinhole in the float, taking in fuel, causing it to sink.

Again, just be careful when putting the bowl back on, that the hinge pin is centered, so it can work properly, not binding the float.

 

[Roadworthy]

I had similar issues with the pony motor on a 1942 D4 Cat. It was the needle valve on the carburetor float. It was intermittently sticking in its little tube. Sometimes it would stick open, sometimes closed. I did a substantial amount of cleaning and polishing in the tube to get the needle moving smoothly as a kit for the carburetor from Cat was a bit spendy at $300 - not the carburetor, just the kit!!

 

[Whymee]

Thanks for the replies gents!!

I think I may have not described my issue correctly.

Fuel does not pour out of the carb when the motor is not running. I just notice a few drops at the mouth, I assume from trying to feed the motor too much fuel. The motor just seems to not able to clean out. Like a 2 stroke that is Jetted way to rich, or a motor that has the choke on when it does not need it.

I have been playing with the float adjustment. Set it at 5/16ths. Same prob, possibly a tad worse, as it never cleaned out, and was harder to start. It never ran correctly, like it did for a few seconds at the float height of 1/4".

Can you guys recommend a carb that will be a direct replacement for the TSX864? I dont mind if it is a type B or C. I am used to jetting 2 strokes!

 

[Roadworthy]

You can try an eBay search or you can try better living through chemistry. Hook up a small temporary tank to the carburetor. Fill it with about a 50/50 mix of seafoam and gasoline. Run the engine a bit. Idle is okay, we just want to get the mix into and through the carburetor. Shut it down and let it sit overnight. This approach worked for me with my water blaster which thought the choke was on all the time. Good luck.

 

[DJ54]

Follow this link to the Case/IH online parts store, for the C-123 engine/ M-S carb. Official Case IH Online Parts Store and Case IH Catalog for Best Parts Search and Best Parts Look Up. Case IH Parts for Case IH Tractors, Case IH Combines, Case IH Tractors, Case IH Manuals, Case IH Parts

If turning the idle screw doesn't change anything, it could very well be the jet itself, part #11 in the exploded view. Case/IH shows that part N/A,but searching the part number, I found 3, for 2 different prices here. Search results - AFTERMARKET.EXPRESS To give you a little incentive to try again to get it out, a replacement Zenith carb. through Case/IH is available for $730.00.

However, Burch tractor shows a replacement carb. for a 140 for $184.99, and I'll assume it is a made in China carb for that price. New Carburetor for IH Farmall A, B, BN, C, Super A, Super C, 1, 13, – Burch Store Tractors Probably best to find your serial number, and call them, and tell them what you need. Case/IH shows 2 different carbs for the 140, according to the serial number. These guys know their 140 stuff, and prices are reasonable. I've ordered more than several bearing & seals from them in the last month or so. Prices are less than others on many parts, and they ship for free. Anything I've ordered, I've had in 3 days.

 

[Whymee]

Again, Thanks for the replies gents!!

This morning I decided to grasp at straws, so to speak.

I went to the ignition side of the tractor.

Took the plugs out and only one was wet, hummmm...

Checked Compression---ok
Checked spark --- weak (all cyls)
checked spark at the coil---weak

Proceeded to blast plug with plug sandblaster.
Cleaned points with sandpaper.
Cleaned cap & rotor with sandpaper.

reassembled. No spark anywhere.

Re-cleaned points. now we have spark at plugs. Weak as far as I am concerned, but better than it was.

Fired up & died. I forgot to turn on the petcock.

Started up for about 30 seconds & died.

Tried again, fired up and idled rough.

Adjusted idle mixture and it is running fine, although I have not moved it.

Next stop is new plugs, oil & filter change and then the pressure washer & degreaser!

I want to thank the above posters for getting me to think deeper about my issue. You guys are top shelf!

Blue Skies,

Whymee

 

[DJ54]

I hope that fixes it..!!

 

[Whymee]

I hope that fixes it..!!

Me too DJ!

After moving the 140 from the shed to garage some thing were readily apparent.

Not much power/RPM.

After careful poking around, found the rod from the carb to the governor was not moving. At all.

I am assuming there is a lubrication point somewhere? I will keep poking the bear!

Whymee

 

[DJ54]

If had the carb off, the rod that comes from the rockshaft arm from the Gov. connection to the carb, goes through the carb connection, from the carb side, not the engine block side. If put in from the engine block side, it can bind, and not move. Just something to check, before getting into something more serious.

The governor mechanism is lubricated from the inside. Three things come to mind, when tov. is not working properly. 1. Broken Gov. spring. 2. Thrust bearing is bad. 3. Flyweights are stuck. I've only seen 1 set of flyweights stuck over the years. The broken spring, and thrust bearing are more common causes. That is, unless the adjustable clevis fork, and pin are gaulded in the Gov. arm. Highly unlikely though.

Not a difficult task to replace either. You'll need to at least remove the front grill/cowling, maybe the radiator shround. Disconnect the carb linkage, from the Gov. arm. Then 5 bolts, and the Gov cover come's off. May need to bump it with something like a dead blow hammer, or rubber mallet, then slip it forward a bit to get it out of there. Spring is in the cover you'll be taking off. Thrust bearing will be on the shaft, of the Gov. pinion assy. Nothing to fly out of there,and lose, when you take it apart. At least it shouldn't..!! 99% of the time, the cover gasket can be reused.