art
Super Member
When you look around the rim sheet you can see where the paint is gone from rubbing on the rim flange. That is ofter the first sign of a loose wheel. easy to find when you know what you are looking for.
Farmall A - popping wheel sound mystery???
- Thread starter txdon
- Start date
BobG_in_VA
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jul 4, 2003
- Messages
- 2,002
- Location
- Central VA, USA
- Tractor
- Mahindra 6000 MWFD, 2 1950's Farmalls, 1974 Farmall 140, 1967 Mf 135Delux
Man!! You guys saved me a bunch of time/effort! I had that "popping" to almost a grinding sound on a certain portion of the rotation on my rear left on my 230 Farmall.Thought I had a bad outer axel bearing. Based on what I read here, we jacked it up last nite and found one of the rim lugs to be loose. Tightened all and "Viola!" No crunch--No poping-- No errors! Keep it up guys. I was really worried that I was in for a bad time! BobG in VA
5030
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2003
- Messages
- 24,651
- Location
- SE Michigan in the middle of nowhere
- Tractor
- Kubota M9000 HDCC3 M9000 HDC
Bob:
IH always used very robust bearings in final drives. You'd crack a housing before you destroyed a bearing.
I always use a little 232 threadlocker on the clamp bolts, even on my new 5030 and especially on my older Deeres.
IH always used very robust bearings in final drives. You'd crack a housing before you destroyed a bearing.
I always use a little 232 threadlocker on the clamp bolts, even on my new 5030 and especially on my older Deeres.
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 52,238
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
I'll second the 'durability of IH final drive setups.
When I got my 66 int cub, it was mostly in good repair, and excelent 'looking' shape.
Minor details, like a pinched wiring harness to the lights, a few dirty electrical connections on the lights, switch, and the V-REG.. easilly fixed.. also, bad ammeter.
Fluids looked maintained well.. though, the oil bath in the fan hub was empty, and the only thing int he final drive pans was a light coating of dust... no evidence that ol ever was inthere. In fact, I'm glad i didn't drive it any till my service manual arived, and I started checking things like fan hub oil, etc.
I do know why the final drives were dry though.. you have to remove the drawbar, and belly mower to get at the plugs, etc.
All is filled now, and no leaks.
I did inspec the final drives a bit before re-assembling, and there wasn't even the slightest hint of wear.. so I was realllll happy.
Soundguy
When I got my 66 int cub, it was mostly in good repair, and excelent 'looking' shape.
Minor details, like a pinched wiring harness to the lights, a few dirty electrical connections on the lights, switch, and the V-REG.. easilly fixed.. also, bad ammeter.
Fluids looked maintained well.. though, the oil bath in the fan hub was empty, and the only thing int he final drive pans was a light coating of dust... no evidence that ol ever was inthere. In fact, I'm glad i didn't drive it any till my service manual arived, and I started checking things like fan hub oil, etc.
I do know why the final drives were dry though.. you have to remove the drawbar, and belly mower to get at the plugs, etc.
All is filled now, and no leaks.
I did inspec the final drives a bit before re-assembling, and there wasn't even the slightest hint of wear.. so I was realllll happy.
Soundguy