Farmall super A hydraulic issue

[tazvpaa]

I have a 1953 Farmall Super A, 6-volt, positive ground. I have replaced the gasket to the hydraulic chamber, drained the hydraulic chamber, and cleaned the filter. I have replaced the hydraulic fluid and removed the air from the lines. After about 10 minutes of operating the tractor, the touch control lever to the right hydraulic cylinder (on the starter side of the tractor) seizes up. The left side (generator side) continues to operate with no problem. If the tractor then sits for a day, both hydraulic cylinders will operate until the tractor warms up and then the right side will seize up again. Can anyone tell me what I should do next?

 

[DJ54]

I'm going to assume this just started since you worked on it. And I'll also assume it is at one end of the stroke of the cylinder, or the other. Does the pump sound like it's straining/bypassing pressure..??

Just wondering if it is possible the control valve operating lever stop has been moved/slipped while doing the work. This would be #35 in the exploded view of the hydraulic block at this link to Case/IH online parts book: Official Case IH Online Parts Store and Case IH Catalog for Best Parts Search and Best Parts Look Up. Case IH Parts for Case IH Tractors, Case IH Combines, Case IH Tractors, Case IH Manuals, Case IH Parts Hoping the link carries through, and opens to that view.

I had to adjust the one on my Super C a couple of times, because the control rod would go far enough, it was still delivering pressure, and you could hear the pump strain. It would also cause the control lever to stick somewhat. Or, you could adjust the stop on the quadrant to catch the control lever before it goes too far. That is, assuming that is what is happening.

 

[tazvpaa]

Thanks for the advice. I did check that control lever stop but it seemed ok. However, your suggestion caused me to examine the stops on the touch control for that rod and they seemed to have moved. So I reset them so that the rod does not move back too far and it seemed to solve the problem. Everything you had mentioned in describing the problem was right on. My hydraulics seems to work now. However, I have encountered another issue and I wonder if you might know how to solve it. My parking brake lever so worn down and cannot be engaged to hold the tractor in place. Therefore, I need to shut done the engine at times in order to get off the tractor. If I don't let the engine run, then it becomes harder to start. Eventually, it won't start at all. It seems like the hydraulic pressure affects the cylinder compression and then I do not have enough electric cranking power to start the tractor. In other words, if I keep it running, I am fine. If I shut it off frequently, then it eventually dies. Any thoughts?

 

[DJ54]

Depending on how bad that pawl is worn, you could either dress it up with a file, along with the notches it drops in, or build it up with weld, and dress it with a grinder, or file. This is where a 110V mig comes in handy..!! Or, I did find one place online that still sells new ones, since Case/IH apparently doesn't, or it's a special order item. Here is the link to the aftermarket ones... OEM Tractor Parts WEB Catalog 2012 - 2nd Edition (2) Page 79

The one pictured looks awfully round on the front to me. Both of mine have a little flat spot on the lower front rounded part, to drop, & lock neatly in the notch. Even at that, I don't trust mine on much of a hill, I'll turn the front wheels, usually full right if I need to leave it running on a hill. I bought a BN about 25 years ago that ran away, from the pawl releasing. Broke it in 4 pieces... Still worth salvaging a few things from it.

On the starting part, it sounds more like an electrical problem to me. If it's an older battery, it could be getting tired, and not taking a full charge. Or, the generator, or voltage regulator aren't putting out enough to keep up when starting & stopping frequently.

Not sure what size your battery cables are, but they should be no less than 1/0 cable. If they are automotive type 4 ga., it will seem like the starter is lazy, and do that. Some tractor dealers will make custom battery cables, and also will some NAPA stores. My local NAPA did not have 1/0 cable, but did have 2/0. I went ahead, and had them make me a set for Dad's old Super C. Cost was right at $80, but starts like a new tractor, even down around 0º.