favorite wax?
- Thread starter Soundguy
- Start date
Toyboy
Platinum Member
I don't know about you guys, but a freshly waxed car, truck, tractor just seems to run better besides being nice & shiny. I'll still wax my stuff whether it needs it or not. Like someone said in a previous post. Old habits die hard. And besides, what the heck, you can't hurt anything and it gives you some personal satisfaction.:thumbsup:
OP
Soundguy
Old Timer
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heck.. I'd do it JUST for water spot prevention.. 
soundguy
soundguy
My point was, if you spend the same time cleaning, and polishing, the finish, you will end up with a better job. And even more satisfaction.
Since most of the wax today is pretend anyway, put a label on the cleaner, that says,"WAX", and pretend it's wax. :thumbsup:
Hondapro
Bronze Member
The wax I use is Collinite 476 it is in paste form,you can get it at neilsharbor.com
The wax is one of the best and it lasts a long time.
The wax is one of the best and it lasts a long time.
Hondapro
Bronze Member
That is correct,
With todays clear coat finishes remember you are only cleaning/waxing the clear coat not the paint.The cleaner you get the clear the better it will look,that is why the clay bar,and surface cleaner is so important before applying any wax.
buck12
Veteran Member
I am going to give the Mequiars product a try. My truck is almost a year old and I would like to maintain the shine because I drive a truck for a long time (going on 18 years on my last truck). I quit waxing about ten years ago and have not seen any negative effects except stuff like bugs and bird droppings are harder to clean.
Ray do you have a recommendation on product for plastics like the bed rail guards, plastic bumper pieces, and interior plastics?
Yes, I have found products that clean plastic, or rubber, and leave it like factory new. They leave no slippery feeling, or fake gloss. The problem is, as with many of the products I use, they are not sold at the public retail level, only in the professional lines. So, it can be hard for the public to get them. And they generally only come in gallons, so they can be costly.
The original version, and still my favorite, 3M Prep Solvent-70, P/N 08983. (1 gallon). It is strong enough to actually be able to remove Armour All. Which was a nightmare for about 10 years, before this stuff came along.
An alternate, if you have a Sherwin Williams automotive paint store in your area is, W4K157, (1 gallon). You can also get this product in a slightly diluted version, in a quart bottle, with a sprayer, as SC155.
I am certain Dupont, and PPG, (if they are the only automotive paint stores in your area), have versions of these, that work just as well, but I have not used them. Just ask for a water based prep solvent. Maybe they have quart versions? Martin Senior automotive, (NAPA), sells the exact same products as Sherwin Williams, but they use different part numbers, so it is confusing.
Because these have almost no odor, and are water based, they seem safe enough to drink. However, they are very powerful cleaners. They actually do a much better job than smelly oil based prep solvents. Unfortunately, most shops have not figured this out yet, so not everyone stocks them.
Apply these a with a well soaked rag, allow to sit a few seconds, and wipe off with a dry rag.
Do not leave a rag soaked in these products, sitting on painted surfaces for long periods of time. We have had beginners who think the stuff is harmless, because it is water based, leave a rag sitting on a painted panel, and go home. They can soften paint.
These products though water based, are mildly flammable.
That does not mean you will damage your paint, using them to clean your vehicle. They are specifically designed to be used to clean painted surfaces, and evaporate quickly, when allowed.
A gallon will run you about $50. But, it will last you the rest of your life, unless you start doing detailing for money.
If you can find someone to split the bottle with you, it is still going to last you a long time. The cheaper option, if you can get it, is the quart of SC155 from S/W, it will run about $15. As I said, it is diluted W4K157, but it is still up to the job. If you want, you can follow this with a coat of vinyl protectant of your choice, I like to use the low gloss ones, like Meguiars #57, (a marine product, available at any boat store).
OP
Soundguy
Old Timer
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
that would be my main concern.. IE.. getting something that is easier to keep clean.
soundguy
The products I suggested, will leave the surface just as easy to clean, as if it was waxed. There are silicones in them, that will give the same result.
The secret to removing bugs is to wet them down with a spray bottle full of water, in a fine mist. After a minute, you can wipe them right off.
You haven't cleaned bugs, until you have to clean them off an airplane. There is around 100 square feet of area on ours, that faces forward, and gets plastered, just about every flight in the summer.
For really dried bird droppings: Spray the spot with Windex, and cover it with a paper towel. When the wet spot shows through the paper towel, wet it with more Windex. Let it sit about 5-10 minutes, and the droppings will come right off. :thumbsup:
Tree sap: Use real hot water.
If anyone has a white, or silver vehicle, with all the tiny orange rust speckles on the sides, it's from brake dust. The hot particles stick to the paint, and rust. All cars get it, you just can't see it on most colors.
To remove this with little effort, buy a bottle of oxalic acid crystals from a larger pharmacy. Dissolve a few tablespoons, in a quart of warm water. Using a sponge, wet the affected areas with the solution. Re-wet the areas every few minutes, as the solution begins to evaporate. After about 10 minutes, you will start to see the spots disappear. Repeat until they are all gone, and rinse the areas thoroughly.
Oxalic acid may eventually irritate your hands, if they are not real tough, so wear rubber gloves. And, eye protection would be a real good idea. For an example, oxalic acid is not nearly as bad, as TSP as far as skin irritation. It is poison, so you need to keep it away from pets, and children.
The secret to removing bugs is to wet them down with a spray bottle full of water, in a fine mist. After a minute, you can wipe them right off.
You haven't cleaned bugs, until you have to clean them off an airplane. There is around 100 square feet of area on ours, that faces forward, and gets plastered, just about every flight in the summer.
For really dried bird droppings: Spray the spot with Windex, and cover it with a paper towel. When the wet spot shows through the paper towel, wet it with more Windex. Let it sit about 5-10 minutes, and the droppings will come right off. :thumbsup:
Tree sap: Use real hot water.
If anyone has a white, or silver vehicle, with all the tiny orange rust speckles on the sides, it's from brake dust. The hot particles stick to the paint, and rust. All cars get it, you just can't see it on most colors.
To remove this with little effort, buy a bottle of oxalic acid crystals from a larger pharmacy. Dissolve a few tablespoons, in a quart of warm water. Using a sponge, wet the affected areas with the solution. Re-wet the areas every few minutes, as the solution begins to evaporate. After about 10 minutes, you will start to see the spots disappear. Repeat until they are all gone, and rinse the areas thoroughly.
Oxalic acid may eventually irritate your hands, if they are not real tough, so wear rubber gloves. And, eye protection would be a real good idea. For an example, oxalic acid is not nearly as bad, as TSP as far as skin irritation. It is poison, so you need to keep it away from pets, and children.