Heading into my final phase before ordering a tractor...I have a list of features I think I want installed at or before purchase.
In no particular order:
3 sets of rear remote, 1 w/detent.
3rd function valve in front for grapple.
Telescoping lower links.
Pin-style stabilizer arms.
Position controlled 3pt
Top and Tilt hydraulic 3pt links
3pt adjustment lever near the hitch
Suspension seat with arm rests
3rd function integrated on FEL joystick
If HST, throttle linked and cruise
What am I missing? Only Tractor features, not implements. Will be doing about 5 acres of rotary cutting and 14 of tree work (pine plantation) about an acre of food plot. Will need to maintain driveway of 200 ft or so and paths across acreage.
I would look at some specific tractors to see what the standard features are and what is even available for factory or dealer-installed options. Some tractors for example aren't available with telescoping 3 point arms, arm rests on the seat, more than 2 rear remotes, or a 3rd function joystick from the factory or with dealer options, those things would have to be aftermarket. People generally buy a tractor with the options they knew they needed and suspected they would want as you generally could negotiate them into the total purchase at a discount, but having them added on later was generally done at full cost. Labor is a big cost so anything you can't install yourself or is difficult to install yourself (such as a loader, wheel weights weighing >200 lbs, tire fluid, hydraulics, a block heater, creeper, etc.) is better to negotiate in initially rather than come back later and pay full price for parts and labor. Things that are easy to install yourself and widely available as an aftermarket unit at a lower price such as a cab radio, external hydraulic cylinders, a canopy, etc. typically people don't order with the tractor and just get it themselves later.
You have not mentioned exactly what tractor you intend on getting, so here's some things to think about:
- You probably don't want too large of a tractor as you only mention working 19 acres in total, consisting of mowing 5 acres with a rotary cutter, putting in a 1 acre food plot, and maintaining a 200 foot driveway. Too large of a tractor is too difficult to maneuver around in small places and is absolutely a pain to work with. You mention lifting a ton with a loader to full height in another post, that requires a large compact or a smaller full-sized utility tractor which is larger than you would otherwise need and perhaps larger than you would otherwise want. If you can, I would demo a unit and that would tell you a lot.
- You will need sufficient
ballast for your tractor as you mention using a loader and a grapple. This can be a combination of filled tires, wheel weights, a ballast box, and/or a heavy 3 point implement. Whatever you use, it needs to be heavy enough, and your manual will tell you how much you need.
- You will probably want regular ag (R1) tires based on your mentioned usage. If you fill them, most places will fill with water/methanol which is inexpensive and relatively hassle-free, and your dealer generally will get that arranged prior to delivery. A few do calcium chloride which is inexpensive and heavier than methanol/water, but you would really want tire tubes if you go that route. If you want something else such as foam or beet juice, you more likely than not will have to get that done yourself.
- You would want a 5' or 6' rotary cutter for those 5 acres and keeping the brush knocked down on paths. That would require a 25-35 HP tractor.
- I have never seen much of a use for seat arm rests, my zero turn has them and they actually get in the way. My tractor does not have them and I do not wish it had them.
- Telescoping lower links are not needed if you intend on running a quick hitch.
- Top and tilt seems to be a personal preference thing and most often seen used with a box blade to vary the angle of attack and the side to side level. You can always make these adjustments manually with the 3 point top and side links, I would recommend thinking about how often you actually need to adjust these when using implements. If it's often, then a top and tilt may make sense, if you set it once before using your implement and then leave it, maybe not so much.
- You can always use a rear remote to control a grapple if needed. Whether or not you want to depends on how much you use the grapple, how convenient it is to reach the rear remote's lever, and how expensive the third function kit is. Some 3rd functions are on a diverter where you lose the ability to use some other hydraulic function when using that function, others are an actual remote.