FEL, CUT and ballast box

[Gary Fowler]

I dont think I would pay $4-500 for an imlement just to add rear weights. IF you have need for the implement, then that is a different story. If you just want counterweight, just fill a barrel with concrete and insert your 3 PH attachment points into the concrete. Total cost for 1000 lbs would be about whatever 11 bags of quickcrete costs in our area, less than $5 per bag last time I bought some plus the cost of a 55 gallon barrel, $10 and some scrap for the inserts. You could even use a 3 PH drawbar for your lift point and just let the barrel hang as long as you inserted it more than half way to the top. If you had some large rocks, you could put those in and then just add the concrete to fill the voids, save a few bucks there also.

 

[Charlton John]

I dont think I would pay $4-500 for an imlement just to add rear weights. IF you have need for the implement, then that is a different story.

I agree its a costly way to get ballast but he mentioned earlier in this thread he was planning on getting a "ballast box and then shorlty after getting a box blade." This is where the ideas came from to save money on getting both and get the box blade and he could kill 2 birds w/ 1 stone.

 

[4runner]

Thanks for the input guys. I did some more research and see some good threads from early this year about making your own ballast from concrete (Racer71) built a "beautiful one", and there were other threads where some nice ones were also put together.

So, I'm obviously going to work the best deal I can with the dealer. I am getting the tires loaded regardless. I am going to skip getting a ballast box right now. I will consider getting a box blade with the tractor if I can work a good deal. If not, I'll keep my eye open for one and pick it up when I can. Thanks again.

 

[Soundguy]

I dont think I would pay $4-500 for an imlement just to add rear weights. IF you have need for the implement, then that is a different story. If you just want counterweight, just fill a barrel with concrete and insert your 3 PH attachment points into the concrete. Total cost for 1000 lbs would be about whatever 11 bags of quickcrete costs in our area, less than $5 per bag last time I bought some plus the cost of a 55 gallon barrel, $10 and some scrap for the inserts. You could even use a 3 PH drawbar for your lift point and just let the barrel hang as long as you inserted it more than half way to the top. If you had some large rocks, you could put those in and then just add the concrete to fill the voids, save a few bucks there also.

Depending on what you are doing.. sometimes a big heavy box blade on the back of a loader tractor can be a usefull 1-2 tool complement.. especially if working on making a road or building pad.. etc..

soundguy

 

[clenhart]

Depending on what you are doing.. sometimes a big heavy box blade on the back of a loader tractor can be a usefull 1-2 tool complement.. especially if working on making a road or building pad.. etc..

I totally agree. I have on several occasions started to build a ballast box, but 95% of the time while doing any loader work I use the Box Blade as ballast and wind up using it in some form or fashion (smoothing dirt, scraping up dirt for the loader, pushing brush piles, positioning logs for lifting, etc.) while doing the job. The only place I really wished for a ballast box was while stacking hay bales in the close confines of a small barn.

 

[sperry]

Safety first! Get loaded tires, one tip and it could be very costly.

 

[jbrumberg]

Depending on what you are doing.. sometimes a big heavy box blade on the back of a loader tractor can be a usefull 1-2 tool complement.. especially if working on making a road or building pad.. etc..

soundguy

That's what I am saying ! Jay I will admit it does limit my manuverability somewhat I the woods. It is one reason I went with the size Box Blade I purchased. Jay

 

[Gary Fowler]

Some of us are talking traction, while others are talking stability. Loaded tires and wheel weights are the way to go for stability plus move those tires out to the widest stance possible. This also gives the extra traction that you look for at the same time. This is especially needed on the smaller SCUTs with FEL. When I bought my tractor, the dealer had some small SCUTs with FEL raised up to show them off. I could gently rock the little tractors by hand and tip the tires on both sides completly off the ground. Even with may bad back, I think I could easily put it on its side with no problem.
Everyone be extremely cautious with FEL on those small (or large) tractors, regardless of how it is weighted. They can tip really quickly and easily even with all the weight and loaded tires that you can load on them. WIDE TRACK for Stability is always best and keep that loader as close to the ground as possible when traveling and dont ever try to raise the load high in the air on sloping ground even if stationary.
Just my 2 cents worth of safety today.

 

[daTeacha]

FWIW, the local Deere dealer won't sell a small tractor with FEL unless there is a ballast box on it. You don't get it for free, but with them it is a mandatory option. I guess they don't want to lose a customer to the funeral home.

 

[Soundguy]

I totally agree. I have on several occasions started to build a ballast box, but 95% of the time while doing any loader work I use the Box Blade as ballast and wind up using it in some form or fashion (smoothing dirt, scraping up dirt for the loader, pushing brush piles, positioning logs for lifting, etc.) while doing the job. The only place I really wished for a ballast box was while stacking hay bales in the close confines of a small barn.

Just make a cheap one for that task.. I used a 35g tub filled with concrete bolted to my 3pt drawbar and tehn stuck some drilled flat stock in the top for a toplink connection... If I need weight that don't stick out more than a few inches past the rear tires.. i use that.. otherwise it's the box blade with 4 cement filled 5g buckets layed on it.. with cast in rebar handles sticking up to make them easy-ER to move around..

My tub cost me less than 15 $ for the concrete.. and the tub was a free leftover from some cattle supplement.. the 3pt drawbar I already had.. and the toplink parts were scrap flat stock I liberated from the recycle pile at work.


soundguy