FEL WeedWacker

[copndoc3]

JJ,
My 2710 puts out about 6.5 GPM @ 2200 rpm and the hydraulic motor I bought is rated at 5000 rpm @ 6 GPM. I found that if I run the tractor at about 1500 rpm that it spins the motor plenty fast enough to handle most any weeds I have come in contact with.

I had orginally considered using steel braided wire for the cutting medium with the end fused (welded) together to prevent fraying. A couple of friends suggested against that in the event that the wire does start to fray, it would become a mini-missile should it break apart and could be hazardous to ones health. Thats why I chose the nylon "string". So far it seems to have worked out OK.

I thought of the chain-saw piece like you showed the picture of, but I was afraid that would fall into the same category as the braided wire.

I'm in the process now of constructing a guard on the rear portion of the bracket to prevent stuff from flying up and back. When I get it done, I'll post some pictures.

Tom

 

[Treemonkey1000]

I tried some stainless steel stranded wire on my weedwhacker. It worked for a little bit then the wire started breaking and becoming mini missiles like you said.. Stick with heavy gauge nylon like you have. Chainsaw chain would also tend to break and snap after a bit as well I think. A good guard is the best bet. Have fun there and I am looking forward to more pictures when you have time.

 

[J_J]

copndoc3

I see that the motor is rated for 1200 psi, did you add a separate relief valve, or adjust the valve relief for 1200 psi? I like your idea, and may adapt it for the tip of my boom pole, and use it to trim limbs/branches. I think I will be using one of these valves, as the blade will always be turning in the same direction and the blade direction set to always tighten the bolt .

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-4169-8&catname=hydraulic

 

[Kevin M]

Great idea , I like it a lot !

 

[Mace Canute]

Slick! No doubt as time goes on you'll think up little improvements for your "Mark I" design. I'm looking forwards to you posting pics of "Mark II"

 

[teg]

Dusting off this thread... I want to make this... Has there been a Mark II version?

I have the hydraulics and I can figure out the mounting to the tractor. I might need more help on attaching the string trimmer / blade. First off, would you be interested in making the part for me? :laughing: (let me know how much...) Or Do you have more details about "...made an adapter on my mini-lathe..." so I can see about maybe getting it done locally here.

Also, Is this the motor you used?
https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-1365&catname=hydraulic

Love that price... looking forward to this project. :thumbsup:

Also, after using it a bit... is there anything you would change or modify? (have it stick out more or less?)

 

[tglass]

Well, I finally got tired of walking around 16 acres of fenceline with a weedwacker to trim grass. I tried the Roundup treatment too, but got tired of getting wet with the toxic mess. So, I decided to build a weekwacker that I could mount on the front end loader of my Kabota B2710 and weedwack in style and comfort. :thumbsup:

I build a bracket to mount a small hydraulic motor that would also "give" in case of contact with a fencepost. I plumbed into a single, detented control valve that hold the motor on in either forward or reverse motion and mounted it near the FEL valve.

The bracket is made from 2"x2" modified angle iron (see photo) that pivots outside of the bucket and will fold back against the bucket if it hits a post.
The return mechanism is nothing more that a spring. A large nylon washer is placed on the pivot pin between the bucket mount and the arm to allow smooth pivoting motion. The motor sits about 16" from the edge of the bucket.

The motor has a 3/8" shaft drilled for either a cotter pin or split pin. I made an adapter on my mini-lathe to accommodate either a trimmer string configuration or a brush blade. Adapter is held onto the motor shaft with a cotter pin. On the business end I configured a PVC cap drilled to accept either 2 or 3 strands of .105" nylon trimmer string (found at local TSC store) and held to the adapter with a bolt and lock washer arrangement.

The swath is about 14" when used with the .105" nylon trimmer string configuration in either 2 or 3 string strands. I also have some thicker weed stalks that required something more substantial than trimmer string, hence the brush blade. That assembly is also held on to the adapter with a bolt and lock washer. The bolt is safety secured to the adapter with a cotter pin thru the mounting assembly. I didn't want the brush blade to become a Fatal Frisbee while in use.

One additional requirement of mine was to be able to see what I was cutting without having to look backwards constantly. I noticed that with some of the commercially available trimmers, they were all mounted on the 3PT hitch that required eyes on the back of ones head to observe what was being cut or getting a stiff neck in the progress of constantly turning around. Wasn't going to have it. Look forward to see whats being cut.

Total cost was $0 for steel (around the shop stuff), $50 for hydraulic motor from Surplus Center, $110 for the control valve (also from Surplus Center) and about $50 for hydraulic hoses.

On a test run down some fence line, everything went smooth and it cut a nice clean path between fence posts. Then the deluge of rain started here in eastern NC from Tropical Storm Nicole. Since Monday, this week, we've had 20" of the liquid sunshine, and its suppose to stop by noon today, so I guess I won't be doin' too much week wackin' this week....at least not til the pastures dry out.

Enjoyed sharing one of my projects with ya'll, if anyone has any question, just ask. Sorry if the pictures aren't in any kind of order, but you should get the idea.

Tom

Great job, but how do you get around the fence post when the blade gets close without having to stop or backup? Think this the same hyd. motor I used on my rear post trimmer, but lost power whenever I had to raise, lower, or extend it. Then the motor shaft broke. Looks good and like to see more about it. My 3320 cab model will drop power to the rear hyd. (trimming motor at the time) whenever the bucket is raised or lowerd even with the power beyond option.

 

[teg]

It will pivot out of the way and spring back. I thought if you could cut out a round metal plate between the motor and the pivot arm, that the unit itself will not hit the post and it would act like a deflector shield, too.

 

[J_J]

You don't need that max speed, do you have a motor speed control on it, and you need a relief valve at set 1200 psi

 

[teg]

You don't need that max speed, do you have a motor speed control on it, and you need a relief valve at set 1200 psi

String trimmers I looked on the web were 3000 rpm to 10,000 rpms. I'll be running it just enough to get the job done.

Thanks for pointing out the 1200 psi rating :ashamed: How best is that achieved? I was planning to use a spool with Detent and a needle valve to slow it down.

I'm guessing a needle valve doesn't reduce the pressure, just slows down the flow??? What would I need to just reduce the pressure on ONE of the spools? (if it can be done at all)

What is the difference between a motor spool and one with Detent?

I can reduce the releif valve on all three valves but will that reduce what comes out of the Power Beyond (thus the pressure for the 3ph??)? I guess I don't really know about the hydraulics :confused3: