fence project and post hole digger

[copperhead1967]

Heres a pix from Home Depot's "how to" site. Click to enlarge.

This is sort of an option. I could add a rail in the middle or even a 45 degree crossbuck alternating on every section. I'm not too sure about the 2x4 boards being on the flat between the post. They use a 16 foot 1x6 deckboard as a cap (A) staggered over every joint of the (B) boards. The top board (B) is nailed directly into the top of the post and 16 feet to span two sections of fence. The bottom (D) is cut to fit between the post (E) and toenailed or screwed. This would make it easier to attach the wire on the inside of the fence and also the second mesh I'll bury underground to prevent digging. I'm pretty set on using a 5 foot "no climb" horse wire. It's woven instead of welded and holds up better. Cost more, but should last many years of dogs pushing on it without it snapping. ( think of a paperclip getting bent back and forth)
I think this design would work well with the slopes.
I could use this design as a start then add 2 or 3 rails or some other pattern to the outside later on to give it more of a farm fence look. It probably would tighten up the fence some too.( Would it aid in climbing from the inside ?)
I also like the open feel of this fence. I'm back in the woods and would hate to have to look at a fence instead of (C) mother nature.
8 foot 4x4's as post would give me 3 feet in the ground, 5 feet above. I could use 4x6 on the corners and cement them and every second post to line up with toprail joints. Not the most beautiful of fences but should hold up well and still have a open feel. I can upgrade it however even with 6 foot dog ear boards if the 5 feet isn't high enough.

 

[Old Blevins]

Copperhead, I just kinda scanned the thread, so excuse me if I offer something that's already been covered or isn't needed.

We do a lot of fencing for our horses and dog and I use a 6" auger. It seems to dig holes slightly larger than the actual auger size, so it's worked fine for the round posts we use. We usually get 4"-5" posts (7 1/2'). Our dog (a very nice German Shepherd) doesn't climb or jump fences, so we're okay with a 4' high fence. The posts are 5' high and if they're around the horses (or if the dog climbed), we can put a hot wire across the top.

My B7500 barely lifts the tip of my Leinbach PHD clear of the ground. That means I'm limited to the amount of slope I can drill in. The auger simply won't clear the ground backing up a slope that's very steep. It might make it on yours... But that's something you might want to check out in your PHD/auger purchase.

We've set some posts in concrete, but most we just fill with crushed rock and pound it in with a big bar we have to set it up. The concrete-set posts don't seem to last any longer and they're harder to replace when they eventually rot out (10-12 years I'd guess).

I use the tractor to tension the wire before I attach it - so I need strong end-posts. Often we'll brace the end post with a diagonal piece to the adjacent post(s). To tension the wire fencing, we'll pin the end of it between two 2X4s that are lashed together with heavy twine, then hook a line up to the top and bottom of the 2X4s.

The most difficult part of the process for us has always been getting the posts perfectly in a line. If they aren't, it can be tough connecting the wire fencing once it's been tensioned. I'd swear I have the starting drill-points perfectly lined up, but we have plenty of rocks and the auger gets moved around a bit - so the fact that our holes are a little larger than we need is helpful for getting the posts in alignment.

Well, look at me run on. Anyway, I hope some of that is useful to you. Good luck with your project. Fencing is a heck of a lot more fun with a PHD!

- Old Blevins

 

[copperhead1967]

Thanks Blevins, lots of good stuff. Didn't think about ever removing a post (although I've planted a few new utility poles) so the crushed rock makes sense to me. The slope and auger lift advice is something I didn't consider either.
I've read somewhere that a 12 inch auger is good for a 8x8 post and a 9 works for a 4x4 or 4x6. Good info on the round post are easier to align with a little wiggle room. Thats what I was looking for. Thanks again.
Once I pull the trigger on the PHD i'll try and update with pix on the project. I have almost 9 acres so I can see alot of fencing if its as fun as you say. I like projects that you can see the improvement at the end of the day.

 

[BeezFun]

If you're still in the shopping stage I'd consider a post pounder rather than a PHD. I started with a phd then my neighbor bought a pounder. We share equipment and my phd hasn't been out if the shed since I used his pounder. We have really rocky soil, I can pound a 6" round post in a minute once its in position. Also works on steel posts, they go in like butter.

 

[copperhead1967]

If you're still in the shopping stage I'd consider a post pounder rather than a PHD. I started with a phd then my neighbor bought a pounder. We share equipment and my phd hasn't been out if the shed since I used his pounder. We have really rocky soil, I can pound a 6" round post in a minute once its in position. Also works on steel posts, they go in like butter.

Yep still shopping and came across a guy who pounds post or will run the whole fence. Going to have him give a estimate for around 36 post and 300-350 feet of fence.
Anyone have a idea what it should run? I think most fence guys charge by the running foot.

 

[Boris1]

I just gave about $3700 for roughly 550 ft of 4 board with black vinyl coated wire. drilled posts, not pounded though. 3 gates. Hope it helps