Ferguson TO-10

[Phred]

Hi,

A TO-10 is for sale locally and appears in good shape with new paint.
It's gas, ~1950, with a freeman loader.

I am torn between buying a new tractor or a used one like this unit. This used ferguson is 10x cheaper than the new one I am looking at, but it will not be as usefull.

My needs are for mowing/ brush cutting, posthole digging, FEL work for gravel, and box blade work. Eventually I want to run a bailer but thats probably two-three years off.

If I buy the used ferguson can I make it fill these needs for a year or two? I would aasume that if I take care of it I can probably sell it for what I paid for it and upgrade to a larger machine.

Any data on pto HP, compatible rotary cutter size, lifting capacity etc...for this unit?

Also how high is the probability that I will spend more time repairing it than working with it?

Anyone have experince with these units?
Thanks for any feedback!

 

[Woodbeef]

Hey Phred

Now I'm no Fergie expert,but I've never heard of a TO-10. Smallest I've ever heard of being built in Motown is the TO-20 (which is around 26 pto hp). So if a TO-10 was made it would be under 25hp.

If I was you I'd step up a few years,and look for something in the 40 or so hp size. You'd be much happier with it in the long run. Power steering is a must with a loader. Just make sure it is one that parts are available for.

You might want to wander over to www.agriculture.com and www.ytmag.com they have boards geared more towards your questions.

 

[StoneHeartFarm]

Phred,

Per the other website, the TO-20 was built from 1948 to 1951 in Detroit and had a continental Z-120 engine. (120 CID). The TO-30 was built from 1950-1956 and had a continental 129 engine. The information I have indicates these engines are prone to cracks in the block between the cylinder walls. The standard fix is to "pin" the block. (A shop bores holes straight through the block between the cylinders and runs a long bolt through.) Apparently, after the block has been pinned, the engine can last a good number of years.

Otherwise, they appear to be pretty comparable to an 8N, (Better on some things and worse on others) and were built to directly compete with with Fords after Henry Ford decided to break away from Ferguson.

SHF

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Re: Ferguson TO-10 NOT- TO20/30

Ferguson TO20, Mfr. 1948-51, 25.4 Belt HP, 2497 lbs., Last Fact. List $1,570.
Low/Avg/High-Auction Pricing:
$650/1,200/1,800.
_________________________

I'm assuming someone has misread the model # on the tractor.

A loader is fine on older tractors if used for large wheel-barrel type moving projects... in other words... don't try to dig out your next basement and move a ton of dirt at a wack...

On older units, the front axles/tires are the one of the weakest links with loaders {hydraulics are another}... remember they weren't designed for that added stress... front axles end up springing/bending/breaking, front wheel hubs/bearings/tires severe wear & tear...

In some cases, a loader just sitting around is thrown on a tractor at the last minute... to help sell/move the tractor... as added value? {Similar to auto auctions, where a snow plow is installed on a 2-WD older truck to get rid of the truck... that otherwise would sell for a very low price...}

All in all, if you're not so eager this week for the buy of the year.../w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif...Fall is almost here... now you will see the units coming out for sale with perhaps more value and usefulness for your dollar... {Remember...farmers and dealers don't want unused equipment sitting around doing nothing especially during the winter months...} (My frame of reference is the Northeast US... of course will vary in different parts of the US)

 

[Phred]

Thanks for the feed back.

Your right it is a T0-20 (1950 model).
The unit claims to be one owner and the loader looks orgional. Appears to operate via a manual dump lever and a valve under the seat. Not exactly as handy as the modern joy stick design.
I guess the key question that I should ask would be has the block been pined.

What would some one look for in order to avoid the majority of problems? Smoke is an abvoius one but what else?
I agree that the loader is probably of limited value, but what about a box blade and a bush hog?

I would assume that this unit could run a 6 ft cutter and a 4 or 5 ft box blade with ease?

Thanks again for the feedback.

Fred

 

[Phred]

SHF,

Could one tell if this has been done by inspection?
I guess you might be able to see the bolts on either side of the engine?

Fred

 

[beenthere]

I used to have a TO-30, and it was a good workhorse for me. I doubt I would try a 6' rotary, but would expect it to handle a 5' with no problem. Check out the gears in the transmission, to see if they stay in gear and don't pop out when driving. Also, check that it has the engine power to start in road gear. Or get a compression check.
One thing the TO-30 did not have, was a 3pt lift that would hold a mid-position. Either it was going up, or going down. It was unlike the 8N Ford that you could set the 3pt by the quadrant control lever and have it hold that position. This makes the box blade difficult to use, unless you just want to drag it around in the down position, or carry it in the up position.
Also,the TO-30 did not have live PTO. So to raise the 3pt, the clutch had to be engaged. This can be a headache with 3pt equipment, in particular the rotary cutter. Also, the PTO needs an over-running clutch, which will allow the tractor to be stopped (using the clutch), but not have the momentum of the rotary cutter blades keep pushing the tractor because it is still in gear. Kicking it out of gear to make a quick stop in an emergency works, but you can't get it back into gear until the rotary cutter comes to a stop. You also cannot engage the PTO unless the tractor is stopped (transmission not moving).
One other item is the left rear brake pedal (lever) on the left side by the clutch. To brake and hold the left wheel and use the clutch at the same time was a one-foot trick (could be done, but not as convenient as having the right and left brake pedals on the right side). The 8N Fords were further ahead here for some reason (I guessed it to be patent rights when Ferguson split from Ford).
I liked my TO-30, as it had plenty of power. I was much happier when I upgraded to a 420 two-cylinder JD utility.

 

[RichZ]

Phred, I have a 1951,TO-20, and I couldn't be happier with it. It's my first tractor, and I find it extremely easy to operate. I do not have a loader, so I can't answer questions about that. However, I have used it for the following: finish mowing, brush hogging, hay raking, using a landscape rake, pulling a farm wagon, and I will be using it for snow blowing. It has handled each of these tasks flawlessly. I have given it very heavy use since April. It has never broken down on me, and always starts first time every time. I do want to eventually get another tractor with a loader, but for the purposes I use it for now, I don't even feel a need to upgrade to something newer.

Rich

 

[StoneHeartFarm]

Phred,

The answer to your question I do not know. Only the fix. Apparently some shops drill and thread the hole, some drill straight through and use nuts on the opposite side. I would suggest looking for a series of bolts down the side of the block between the cylinders.

The problem with the block cracks is that they will keep expanding downward until they reach the mains, which allows antifreeze direct access to the bearings. Pinning apparently stops this problem.

SHF

 

[Phred]

<blockquote><font size=1>In reply to:</font><hr>

"Also, check that it has the engine power to start in road gear."

<hr></blockquote>



Do you mean that it should be able to start in gear with the clutch out? This sounds like it would be hard on the machine and would not exactly please the current owner?