firewood question

[LD1]

Here it is

 

[rmorey]

Here it is

View attachment 342794View attachment 342796

Well now thats a pile of firewood!:laughing:

 

[crazyal]

I remember reading a study by the government that dealt with how many acres needed to sustain firewood for a house. I can't remember how they split up the country, it was at least 20 years ago that I read it. It went into managing your lot to get the maximum amount of burnable wood from the lot. Things like reducing crowding and picking which trees to save. I doubt it's accurate now since so much has changed, wood stoves and houses are much more efficient. I doubt I could get a cord of wood per acre for life, that sounds too high.

 

[Lloyd_E]

Many years ago... We had a major thunder/lightning storm. Heard a loud crank and boom. Got the family up... scared the crap out of me. A few weeks later my daughter and I were sitting in the back yard looking out over the fields. We saw this vertical "orange" line in the woods. Off we go to investigate. The oak was hit by the lightning. It peeled the bark off and split the tree trunk. I think I got a full cord and a bit from this one. The hard looking guy is me before the weight loss. And yes, I do wear protective gear now. I am older and wiser. And I put that stihl 025 saw through its paces!

I love working in the woods... and sometimes I find a stump and sit and think... peaceful.

 

[ovrszd]

I love working in the woods... and sometimes I find a stump and sit and think... peaceful.

I too enjoy my time in the timber. I always pack my lunch and my best times are sitting in the warm sunshine, leaned up against a large oak, sharing my lunch with my Dog. God intended for me to spend time there. Good for the Soul. I'm so appreciative that I say a Prayer thanking God for providing the tree that I cut for wood.

 

[john_bud]

Old wood - really dry wood burns quickly and does not coke or convert to coal. Coked wood is where the btu's are. Gives the highest and longest heat run. Seasoned "dry" wood is when the wood moisture reaches the surrounding air moisture or equilibrium. Depending on your location "dry" could have a moisture content of 20% more or less and still give you the best burn. You are correct dry wood gives you the best burn as compared to wood that has a high moisture content. I usually season mine for at least 1.5 years if possible. But I do see folks up here chunking and splitting 8' lengths for the present winter season now. Maybe the 8 footers have been stacked for a year or two. I hope so. We just recently chunked and stacked wood for the mother in law. The wood was stacked in 8' pieces(6-7 cord) for about year in her yard and maybe more at the roadside wood lot. It was easy to chunk and split like a dream even with one of those electric splitters.

The BTU's are the amount of heat the wood is able to generate when completely burned, independent of the max change in temperature or the duration of the burn. According to the literature, a 2 pound chunk of oak can generate 12,180 BTU when 100% dry, it won't generate MORE when it is wet. In fact the calculation is easy to see amount of BTU's reduced by turning the moisture from liquid to gas. That same wood when green will have a pound of water in it -- that water takes about 1200 btu to change it from water to steam. There is a net reduction in energy available to heat of 10%, plus the TRANSFER of heat from the firebox to the house is reduced even more as the burn temperature is reduced. Thermal transfer being greatly affected by difference in temperature. That's why green wood burns cooler than dry wood and does so poorly at heating the house.

 

[Egon]

( That's why green wood burns cooler than dry wood and does so poorly at heating the house.)

Works well for creosoting the chimney too. But when that starts burning the house may get real warm quickly!:thumbsup:

 

[adirondackmtnman]

I'm of the opinion that wood should reach a moisture point where it is neither too green (creosote, poor burning concerns,) nor too dry. If it is too dry, in my experience, yes, you get ALL the BTU's from the burning wood, but get it too fast, thereby using more wood, and overheating the house. I'll sacrifice max BTU'S for a slightly longer burning fire. Just my thoughts from what I have seen through many years of burning wood. I always cut my wood in April/May and split by the end of June/early July, and it is ready to burn by late september. I was taught that the wood is ready to burn when two pieces are clapped together, and it makes the 'bowling pin' sound. Creosote has never been a problem. Yes, we get some, but never enough for it to cause any issues.

Sent from my LGL35G using TractorByNet

 

[Midniteoyl]

Can't really add more to ovrszd answer - good advice - only that the btu's lower with the dryness of the wood. If the wood is really dry you will find it will burn quickly thus adding more wood to maintain heat levels is needed. If you have an outside fireplace/fire-pit you could use it there where the quality of the wood is not so critical.

So turn your damper down to burn slower. Dry wood is WAY better than wet for heat output and quality of fire..

 

[Midniteoyl]

Old wood - really dry wood burns quickly and does not coke or convert to coal. Coked wood is where the btu's are. Gives the highest and longest heat run. Seasoned "dry" wood is when the wood moisture reaches the surrounding air moisture or equilibrium. Depending on your location "dry" could have a moisture content of 20% more or less and still give you the best burn. You are correct dry wood gives you the best burn as compared to wood that has a high moisture content. I usually season mine for at least 1.5 years if possible. But I do see folks up here chunking and splitting 8' lengths for the present winter season now. Maybe the 8 footers have been stacked for a year or two. I hope so. We just recently chunked and stacked wood for the mother in law. The wood was stacked in 8' pieces(6-7 cord) for about year in her yard and maybe more at the roadside wood lot. It was easy to chunk and split like a dream even with one of those electric splitters.

If you haven't tried an electric splitter - you will be amazed at what they can do. I thought they were a toy but my neighbour has one, now my brother and as mentioned my mother in law. They have split through green oak, apple, poplar with ease. The odd chunk could not be split but I have run into this problem with my gas splitter. I am now considering one. Less noise and less maintenance. The drawback is the extension-cord length...

Ok, I see what you mean.. I was thinking you meant to use wood that was split that season as opposed to letting it sit longer..