First Tractor

[flINTLOCK]

I use a TC40 DA NH for food plots for deer. Didn't think FEL was necessary, but got good deal on used machine with FEL. Even without the grapple or stone bucket, I use the FEL nearly every time I work with it to lift and move something heavy. I'd be lost without it.

 

[sciguy2902]

Thanks for all the great advice guys. I finally pulled the trigger and am now the proud owner of a Kubota L3240DT with the LA514 FEL and a 5 ft bush hog squealer. So far everything looks good. I've already bumped a couple of trees so it's going to take a while 'til I get the hang of driving around with the FEL but I've already used it and have been thrilled. It came in handy while cutting as there were several large limbs that I was able to move with the FEL avoiding stopping to manually remove them. I can't wait to see what else I can do with it.

The 5 ft cutter looks to be just what I need. My wooded acreage will be easier to maintain with the smaller attachment. It also bogged down a few times while I was cutting today so I'm pretty sure I'd have trouble with a 6 footer. Things grow pretty thick and fast down here in south Louisiana so I think I need the 5 to get any kind of speed while cutting. Even if the 6 would take less time overall I think it'll be more enjoyable/tolerable to cut when I can feel a little more of a breeze.

Thanks again to all who replied.

 

[Jae]

Well thats quite a nice lookin tractor ya got there, It should tackle anything you can throw at it I am sure.

Makes me wish I had a 5 footer for some sections of my pasture. The 6's are definetly longer and require more clearance to turn in the trees. I think you made the right choice with the 5 footer. I still have that new tractor feeling going on as I managed to get some seat time on my New Holland today mowing ~1/4 of our 30 acre pasture. Its the section with all the trees wich definetly takes a bit of time to manuver up and down the hills while dodging trees. I would have definetly spent less time doing the back and fro dance between the trees with a smaller unit, and perhaps could have mowed an extra acre or two.

 

[Z-Michigan]

Congrats - looks like a very nice setup.

I still bump the occasional tree or post with the FEL. This can be minimized by lifting the bucket to full height, but that looks funny and reduces stability if you're on any slopes. Ideal answer is to remove the FEL for mowing, but I don't want to bother doing that. You will get the hang of it with time. Until then, try not to let the wife see where you nicked stuff.

 

[scott_vt]

I cut 8 acres all the time, if it helps, I am looking at a bigger tractor and a bigger cutter. Mine cuts 5' now. On a nice day, with the ground softened by a previous rain, I don't mind spending a couple hours on the tractor. On a hot scorcher, with the ground hard as cement, I want off that tractor fast. When I have something to do, and I have to cut grass, it really makes me curse how long I am on it.

Mornin Hayseed,
Couldnt have said it better myself ! That pretty much typifies my feelings also !

Mornin Sciguy,
Nice lookin tractor combo ! I use basically the same mower, albiet older , and its probablly the best mower for my tractor in most mowing conditions ! Later in the summer when its hot as the dickens and the second growth is thinner I could pull a 6 footer, but that would be in the perfect world !

Good luck with your new machine !

 

[flusher]

I am in the market for a tractor and would appreciate any advice or comments.
I recently purchased 13 acres with the following:

1 acre with the house that is fenced in, cut with riding mower
gravel driveway about 750 ft long
2.5 acres wooded that I would like to keep fairly clear of undergrowth
8 acres cleared pasture (previously had cattle)
1.5 acres cleared but low level, frequently holds water

My initial objective is to keep the pasture cut and maintain the gravel drive. Eventually I hope to do some farming- I'm thinking citrus, grapes, mayhaw, maybe a little corn. I expect I'll buy a horse in the next year or two and could possibly stable a few extras for some income which could involve growing a little hay.


My questions:

1. How much tractor do I need? The dealers I've talked to suggested the L3240 or the L3540. The argument for the 32 HP is that it is just as good as the 35 and the difference is minimal and not worth an extra $1500. The case for the 35 is that 3 HP is a big difference (~10%) for a small tractor and every little bit helps. A friend of mine with 8 acres has a 42 HP but that seems like more than I need.

2. Are the more expensive transmissions worth the money? I don't consider a tractor a pleasure vehicle so I'd just as soon save the money and shift the darn thing, besides, how much shifting am I going to do? On the other hand, I'm not getting younger (doing pretty good for 50) and I don't won't to have to struggle in 10-15 years if I still want to keep at it. Still, I'm leaning toward the DT since I think I can handle any shifting required.

3. Should I get a front loader? This seems like my best chance to save some money as they are asking $3500 or more. I don't see any immediate use for one but how easy is it to add one later? I would eventually like to move some dirt and possibly fill some of the low areas and/or create a pond so I'll need something. Will a loader do the trick? The only use I can see for one immediately is to pick up trunk sections of a large pine tree that fell and move them to the wooded area but I don't expect to have trees fall very ofter. Are there other uses that would justify the cost? I'm also getting conflicting advice on the loader model, 514 vs. 724. Is the difference worth $600?

4. Is a box blade necessary to maintain the gravel drive? I know their not that expensive but the drive looks to be in decent shape and I can't imagine it will require a tremendous amount of work. I'm filling in a few low areas that puddle when it rains. That's going pretty well just hauling small loads in a van. Do gravel roads deteriorate quickly enough to buy the box?

5. Is there much difference in bush hogs? I figure 5 ft is good enough but some salesmen are pushing Woods while others say it doesn't really matter. It's not a huge expense so I'm inclined to go with a good new one. Don't most of them have pretty good longevity?


Lastly, if anyone wants to argue that I should get a used tractor or another brand I'll certainly listen. The more I hear the sooner I'll get up to speed and doing some positive things with my land.

Thanks for any help.

Two days ago my neighbor next door took delivery of his brand new Kubota L4630 (45 hp engine, 39hp at the pto) gear tractor with FEL, 6 ft brush hog, 6 ft box blade, and a nice post hole digger. Like me he has 10 acres of flat pasture land. He previously used his BIL's 70hp JD to handle the mowing chore with a 10 ft brush hog.

That Bota is a honey of a tractor. He surprised me since I had him pegged as a JD guy. But he said the Kubota dealer was very competitive. The tractor delivery guy and he joked about how soon it would be until he outgrew that 4630 and would be looking for a larger tractor.

I have a Kubota B7510HST with the LA302 FEL (21 hp engine, 17 hp pto) that I bought new in 2005. It's OK for general mowing, rototilling and hauling, but too small for serious tillage work with moldboard and/or chisel plow and disc. That's why last July I bought a 1964 Massey Ferguson 135 diesel (45 hp engine, 38 hp pto) to handle the plowing, discing and other chores involved in hay making.

If you anticipate any serious tillage in your future, be advised to get enough tractor now so you don't have regrets later when your tractor needs increase.

 

[Grrrr]

That's why last July I bought a 1964 Massey Ferguson 135 diesel (45 hp engine, 38 hp pto) to handle the plowing, discing and other chores involved in hay making.

You probably now have one of the best utility tractors ever made

Good choice

 

[jsborn]

Sciguy

Looks like a great set up for your land . I noticed in your picture and far be it from me to preach to anyone else about anything. BUT until you become very familiar with the operation and handling of your new tractor I would highly recommend raising the ROPS and as Forrest Gump said that's all I have to say about that.

My next observation is you were concerned about the difference between a 5 and 6 foot mower as far as speed of cut. I have the following for you to ponder.

fuel to cut 8 acres with 5ft approx say $10
time to cut 8 acres with 5ft approx 8 hours @ $25 = $200
Total = $210

same calculations for 6 foot mower increased by 20% =$252

One hour of psychotherapy $300

See a tractor and mower are still a great bargain and you feel so much better after you are done.

 

[Grrrr]

Sciguy

Looks like a great set up for your land . I noticed in your picture and far be it from me to preach to anyone else about anything. BUT until you become very familiar with the operation and handling of your new tractor I would highly recommend raising the ROPS and as Forrest Gump said that's all I have to say about that.

My next observation is you were concerned about the difference between a 5 and 6 foot mower as far as speed of cut. I have the following for you to ponder.

fuel to cut 8 acres with 5ft approx say $10
time to cut 8 acres with 5ft approx 8 hours @ $25 = $200
Total = $210

same calculations for 6 foot mower increased by 20% =$252

One hour of psychotherapy $300

See a tractor and mower are still a great bargain and you feel so much better after you are done.

Depending on how thick the stuff your cutting is, I would hope for a bit more than an acre an hour. With our six footer, on just weeds and grass I get more like 4 acres and hour, but I like to drive the tractors nice and fast

 

[DK35vince]

With our six footer, on just weeds and grass I get more like 4 acres and hour, but I like to drive the tractors nice and fast

You must have some very smooth fields.
With my 6' I can mow around 2 acres per hour. Any faster than that it would shake the guts out of both man and machine..