Flail Make identification and Pulley Removal

[NWOutlawMX]

Can anyone help Identify this 12' flail. the only # stamped in it is GT33188. A bearing went out and I've never seen a pulley attached the way these are, figured I would just have to use a puller but looking at it closer there appears to be a plate with a split bolted on to the pulley, a shear pin runs through both and there is a hole in the plate directly above the shear but feeling around there doesn't seem to be any type of screw in there. I can't see straight in. Clean it out with a pick and tried various Allen wrenches but nothing. Any worked on something like this.

 

[NWOutlawMX]

I just looked at the pictures cause they turned out huge. The bottom pulley is the one with the bearing out but the close up of picture 3 looks like the empty holes are threaded and the shaft is dimpled to prevent the shear pin from coming out. Still interested in any input to original questions.

 

[K5lwq]

If there is no set screw on the key then I would use the three bolts in the other three holes and start tightening them. I believe it is designed for those bolts to push the pulley off. I probably would spray some CorrosionX on the shaft for good measure.

 

[TerryR]

The center hub with the three bolts is split so it can clamp down on the shaft when it's pulled into a tapered hole in the pulley by the bolts. As K51WQ says, take the bolts out and put them into the three empty holes to remove the pulley from the hub to release the hub from the shaft. It may still be bound to the shaft by rust, but in theory it should then be free to slide off.

 

[Menagerie-Manor]

Can anyone help Identify this 12' flail. the only # stamped in it is GT33188. A bearing went out and I've never seen a pulley attached the way these are, figured I would just have to use a puller but looking at it closer there appears to be a plate with a split bolted on to the pulley, a shear pin runs through both and there is a hole in the plate directly above the shear but feeling around there doesn't seem to be any type of screw in there. I can't see straight in. Clean it out with a pick and tried various Allen wrenches but nothing. Any worked on something like this.
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That is a sheave type pulley and as K5lwq suggested just remove the 3 bolts and thread them into the threaded holes and in a consistent pattern tighten them and it will come apart.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Tapered sheave. Use bolt holes to push pulley back. Then hang puller on rim of sheave and pull off. Split allows to come off shaft easy.

 

[seville009]

Echoing what has been posted above....remove those three bolts and put them in the other three holes.

You then slowly tighten the three bolts - do about a 1/4 turn on one bolt, then go to the next bolt and do the same, etc, etc. that will slowly push the pulley down and release everything.

Do not turn more than 1/4 at a time, as you will likely break the bolt.

Tip - spray everything liberally with PB Blaster first and let it soak overnight. That will make things significantly easier.

 

[NWOutlawMX]

Echoing what has been posted above....remove those three bolts and put them in the other three holes.

You then slowly tighten the three bolts - do about a 1/4 turn on one bolt, then go to the next bolt and do the same, etc, etc. that will slowly push the pulley down and release everything.

Do not turn more than 1/4 at a time, as you will likely break the bolt.

Tip - spray everything liberally with PB Blaster first and let it soak overnight. That will make things significantly easier.

Thanks to all the replies, I did a search before posting and couldn't find anything, maybe should have searched on youtube specifically cause Google didn't produce anything. The video helped to understand what everyone has been saying. I'll post some pics when I get this done today

 

[leonz]

Can anyone help Identify this 12' flail. the only # stamped in it is GT33188. A bearing went out and I've never seen a pulley attached the way these are, figured I would just have to use a puller but looking at it closer there appears to be a plate with a split bolted on to the pulley, a shear pin runs through both and there is a hole in the plate directly above the shear but feeling around there doesn't seem to be any type of screw in there. I can't see straight in. Clean it out with a pick and tried various Allen wrenches but nothing. Any worked on something like this.
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What you have there is a taper lock bushing. It secures the sheave/pulley to the shaft by compressing the taper lock against the flail shredder rotor shaft stub.



I am pretty sure that flail shredder is a Vrisimo orchard flail shredder made in California.

If you call Vrisimo and send them a picture of the flail shredder they will be able to send you a manual.

The taper lock bushing will have a set screw in the hole above the keyway.

I would recommend that you do not start torquing down those bolts until you spray some kroil in the holes and continue spraying it several times over 2 days before you even begin tightening the bolts.

Do not use a socket and ratchet to put tension against the pulley sheave, use only a box end wrench !!!!!

You should not turn any of the bolts down anymore than an 1/8 of a turn as you will damage the taper lock.
You need to use very fine grit emery sanding paper preferably the roll strip type in 120 grit to let you work more easily when sanding the shaft stub before you attempt to pull it off

Please clean the face of the sheave/pulley and use a felt pen to make 2 marks to insure that you only turn
the bolt head an 1/8 of a turn by marking the point s of one flat of the bolt and marking the center distance
with a long line to create the proper distance between the point of the flat and the half way distance of the bolt flat.

Yes, it will take longer to do, and you really need to be sure that the taper locks are correctly secured as they use
compression with no torque wrench since they used coarse thread hex head bolts.

You are going to want to replace both flail shredder rotor bearings on your flail shredder.

KEEP IN MIND that you must secure the taper lock bushing and sheave/pulley "in exactly the same location"
Use a small steel ruler to measure the distance from the end of the shaft to the face of the taper lock bushing.
Use a longer steel ruler to make sure the pulleys are in alignment before you start securing the taper lock and sheave pulley.

When you have the measurement use a permanent marker to write the measurement on the side weldment of
the flail shredder and in so doing you will know exactly how much you need to move the taper lock bushing and the
sheave/pulley when reinstalling them. Do the same thing for the opposite taper lock and bearing.

Use a small amount of blue LOCTITE to secure the set screw and a long strip squirted on the bolt threads for the bolts when reinstalling everything.

 

[toolslinger]

I'll add this to the good advise above...
If you've got mushrooming on end of the shaft, don't be afraid to get the grinder, or file. You obviously don't need the last inch of so to be perfect, but you absolutely can't have it over sized. Clean up the mess you leave with the strip sandpaper. A few thousandths of an inch over mushrooming can really mess up your day. The dimple in the keyway is ok, just make sure it doesn't push outside the diameter of the shaft.
Also, once you manage to break the set screw holding the keyway in place, I'd suggest taking it out all the way if you can. I can't tell you how many times I've been burned by having stacked set screws. Take it out all the way, and look in there to make sure.