Flow Control on Well Head

[Egon]

https://www.powermotiontech.com/hydraulics/hydraulic-valves/article/21885085/a-guide-to-flow-control-valves-types-and-use-cases.”

just some information.

 

[npalen]

Spent some time yesterday adjusting the flow control on each zone valve opening up until just enough pressure to operate the sprinkler heads on the zone. This after opening the ball valve to let full pump pressure (100psi) to the zone valves. This seemed to keep the flow below the well output threshold and keep the other zone valves closed.

The flow control adjustment is not very sensitive and does not inspire a lot of confidence and that is the reason I haven't been using it but so far seems to be working.

I had mentioned above that Hunter has pressure regulating valves that can be field installed on their zone valves that should/would give better control of each zone. May give them a try if the flow controls give me grief.

Hunter Industries (Accu Sync) | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Hunter Industries (Accu Sync) at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[FOP]

We used an installation similar to, and as shown on, cyclestopvalves.com. When installed, as long as there is denand, the pump starts once and maintains the downstream pressure up until you exceed the pumps total capacity. Even with an inline pressure switch and ultra small expansion tank, the pump starts and remains on until demand stops. The number of start cycles is a limiting factor for pump life span. It becomes a reliable self-sufficient non-electronic solution. Once adjusted correctly, just open the zone flow (or spigot) and forget it. In our case, the pump starts at 40# at the switch, pump comes on and the CSV is set at 55# and holds downstream pressure there. When demand stops, the pressure rises to 60# where the SquareD pressure switch stops the pump. FYI: There are also SquareD with a mechanical low pressure cutout to protect pump should it runout or run dry.

 

[Aggie66]

Is it possible to lower your pump so it will stay ahead of the drawdown

 

[FOP]

FYI: Neither ball nor gate valves are meant to throttle liquids or gases. They are designed to be full open with minimal restriction or fully closed. You CAN use anything to choke flow even crimping the hose, but why would you unless its a temporary single use situation? There are rising stem throttle valves $$$ AND globe valves $ that will yield accurate flow adjustment. needle valves for low flow micromanagement of fine adjustment of flow.

I agree a flow restrictor oriface in each line is a no brainer to choke total flow should all lines flow at once. Simple DIY effort made from available flat washers can be made and drilled to any size . rubber, cpvc, even metal. You pick the mechnical connection location where they can be most easily serviced.

The rising stem globe valve would function as an adjustable oriface and a tyrap to lock the setting.

 

[TxSteveS]

We used an installation similar to, and as shown on, cyclestopvalves.com. When installed, as long as there is denand, the pump starts once and maintains the downstream pressure up until you exceed the pumps total capacity. Even with an inline pressure switch and ultra small expansion tank, the pump starts and remains on until demand stops. The number of start cycles is a limiting factor for pump life span. It becomes a reliable self-sufficient non-electronic solution. Once adjusted correctly, just open the zone flow (or spigot) and forget it. In our case, the pump starts at 40# at the switch, pump comes on and the CSV is set at 55# and holds downstream pressure there. When demand stops, the pressure rises to 60# where the SquareD pressure switch stops the pump. FYI: There are also SquareD with a mechanical low pressure cutout to protect pump should it runout or run dry.

I also use the cycle stop valve setup with 4.5 gallon pressure tank. It works fantastic to hold a steady pressure. Mine is mostly for irrigating the garden and livestock tanks/water at ranch out buildings. I start the garden sprinklers and the pressure holds steady at about 50 for as long as the water is flowing.

If all you're doing us irrigation, you don't even need a tank. Straight from the well through the cyclestop and to the heads.

Like others have said - if it was me, I'd size the zones/heads for ~8gpm to give you some headroom.

 

[etpm]

FOP is correct, a person could indeed make their own orifices fairly easily. Start small, measure the flow, and increase size appropriately. Remember that the area of a hole, the orifice, increases by the square. So a hole twice as large has 4 times the area. Get out yer calculator.
Eric

 

[Carl_NH]

The irrigation solenoid valves are finicky as any sediment will cause them to stick and not close. Our 10 zone system constantly needed maintenance until I installed a large GE 1" filter - since then not one sticking valve in 10 years. Our install was 5 heads per zone, and pump was cycling off, so I wired two zones together to match the pump better it pumps 12-14 GPM- less on/off.

Then a small bladder tank and 40/60 low pressure cutout switch, and a zone controller with rain sensor for your 4-5 zones. You might spend $500 or so for a proper setup but it will eliminate a lot of messing with the system. The cycle stop valve is $$ - do that if you need to.

I used to run ours for the lawn when nature didn't provide enough water, but now it's mostly for new planting beds, garden and trees - not for the lawn as this is the supply to the house too.